Getting Back in the Game

Hi, I'm Rusty Horse and whilst I've been a member for a long time you will see that my posts are very few - mainly because I had a number of LR friends who used the now defunct Landrovernet forum so I used to go there instead. Also, I haven't had a Land Rover for 4 years! Anyway - Hi Everyone.

A bit of background then a question if I may.

Over the years I have owned a number of 110 CSWs, mostly circa 20+ years old starting with 2.5 NA engine, Disco 200tdi transplant then a factory 200Tdi until 5 years ago getting the one I had been working towards for years - a 1998 300TDi. Having done all the checks - 2 owners, great pedigree, service/maint. records, no rot etc. I took out a loan and bought it. Within 12 months the chassis was swiss cheese and the pillars going. Sold it at a massive loss - it broke my heart and left a big hole in my wallet so basically I lost my enthusiasm for LRs and dropped out of the scene.

But my hankerings are back and wow, what has been going on while I've been away with prices (I know really) . LRs I bought and sold for £2,000-£3,500 10 years ago are fetching £5,000-£6,000 now and the 1998 CSW I paid £5,750 for would cost me circa £10k today!! My question though is this -

As a non-skilled DIY 'mechanic', (I could do a basic service and maintenance but after that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing) who enjoys tinkering, I'm looking for a circa 20 year old Landy to play and hobby with - am I best sticking with a 300TDi or moving to the TD5? The belief was that the 300TDi was the last engine people of my level could work on on the drive and the TD5 had lots of electronics that meant specialist equipment in garages. Also, from memory the early TD5s had some issues.

Is the consensus now that the TD5 has matured and recognised as a much superior engine than the 300TDi or is the fun still in the 300TDi? Some TD5s circa 2002-04 seem cheaper than a 1996-98 300TDi.

Where am I best focussing my efforts and money? Any thoughts, greatly appreciated and apologies for the long post.

Lately the td5 postings on here are all about not getting it to start. I've tried everything but nothing works. I've fitted all new parts but still not going. Etc etc.
The ones that work 100% and never give trouble, they are not on here.
I have 200 and 300tdi and happy with them.

My 20 year old TD5 so far has been troublefree at circa 150,000 miles
I bought at 120,000. The previous owner had had the head replaced at 100k, I understand the 10P engines had a weakness in cracking around one of the injectors.
Apart from that it's been rock solid, touch wood. Bulkhead and chassis good, bulkhead good, usual rust in door frames but have dealt with. One outrigger needed doing.
I guess it depends on how well any previous owners have looked after it and how rough a life it's lived

Thanks for your replies. I could look at both and and use other factors to decide, like the overall condition etc.

Recon you need to push the boat out and get a 300tdi on a galv chassis.

Sorry, wrong thread.

tottot said:

Recon you need to push the boat out and get a 300tdi on a galv chassis.

Click to expand...

And that's, what I've done. 1997 110 CSW on galv chassis, full roll cage, winch and other stuff .
First job is a major clean starting with jet wash and degrease underside and engine bay, then find out what I've bought and draw up a list of jobs. It seems pretty up together other than clutch travel, pulls to left when braking and a rear wheel bearing - all sortable, so excited to crack on.

Sounds good keep us updated on how you get on with it.

Update: Took it to a well trusted LR independent to give a health check. The good news is that fundamentally it's sound but it has only done 3 miles in the last 18 months so a lot has seized, perished...... Decided to get everything practical sorted so after not having seen it for 3 weeks I picked it up yesterday along with an invoice that ran to 2 pages; including new discs & callipers all round, wheel bearings, stub axle, drive flange.... There are still a couple of noises and a bit too much black smoke when pushing hard, which I will get sorted in time, i.e. in a few pay days time.

In the meantime it's about kitting it out, bonding and having a bit of fun.

(As an aside and probably shouldn't ask here but as I've started - really need a jack and wheel brace to carry onboard - have a trolley jack at home but don't want to lug it about. If anyone has a spare one in Hampshire I'd be happy to relieve you of it for a fair price)

Sitting doing nothing is no good for any vehicle if not properly stored. Not surprised the discs were crud.
Do not bother with the Land rover Defender supplied jack, they are rubbish. I carry a normal bottle jack with a U cup welded on top that fits the axle.
uklandroverspares for a heavy duty wheel brace, standard one is also rubbish.

As above, with the standard jack you have to raise the suspension to its maximum extent before the wheel comes off the ground.
A bottle jack under the axle means you only need raise the vehicle a couple of inches.

Don't forget to chock the wheels, lf you raise one wheel off the ground the Landy can roll, even if the handbrake is on, because it acts on the transmission and not the wheels.