GEARBOX woes

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no it looks ok i think but will have another look tomorrow but as for the side plate leak i was wrong after a good wipe i dont beleave it was leaking ,maybe just oil from when sump was leaking that had some how got up there

if it is a solenoid where can i buy them from?
 
true to to be honest the oil in my gear box is not either !!! is a mucky brown/grey so not much dif from the sump oil

ive just had a email back from local landrover dealer ,he does the jatco gear box oil for 10 euros a ltre ,does that sound about right
 
right just to throw even more into the mix !!!!!!! lmfao

before i start ,got some oil today so tomorrow im going to first top the gearbox up and see if anything changes before i start taking front pannel off to look at solinodes

BUT I TOOK HER FOR A MOT TODAY!!!
god he went through her with a fine tooth comb :mad::eek::mad:

but she fail like i thought but no where near as bad lol infact apart from one pain in ass

1, both front side lights not working .... turned out some #### had removed them

2, rear side light had blowen .... now replaced

3, battery no bolted down ...... my fault as bat ####ed so throw mine from other car on and never bolted it down

4, the pain in ass !!!!

emissions :( strange ,it past the rev range ,got 0,2 i think it was but failed the idle test ??????

but after all done he pointed out there was a plug off something ,but to late as closing :mad::mad::mad::mad:

anyway plug back on and was off this (below) but what does it do and would it effect the emissions ?? ps he said my cat is working fine ,but yesterday my warning light came on but my code reader will not work on my freelander


thats the plug that was not attached !!!!!
 
Well what a ####ing day :mad::eek::censored::censored::censored:

where to start!!!!!
was going to start with topping up the gearbox

took the newly cleaned under tray off and :censored::censored::censored:
traced the leak to :mad:
(the cam cover)

as you can see i think JOHN ####ing WAYNE used to own this car :mad:
again some kind of bodge job sealant to hide a leaking cam shaft seal !!!!!!!

any way after finding that i started to top up gear box oil ,i put 1 ltr of new oil in with engine running and level screw out and got this

new oil colour

now the old oil ,def needs to be completely change
its all thick,brown and stinks !!!!

took for a little drive to see if any dif in gear change ,and def less jolty !!! so next is a complete 4 ltr oil change for the box

but then :censored::censored::censored: disaster struck !!!!!!!!!!

dropped the entire coolant everywhere :mad::eek:


was well ****ed off!!!! was thinking water pump :mad::mad::mad:

i refilled the system best i could with fresh water to see if i could find the leak and



yep after looking again its def from there!!!!!!!! which is def better than the water pump lol

i poured some water into the V to ensure water ran out of the engine in same place and it did in fact with a touch i found its pouring out of here
(pic taken from internet not mine)

any right ups on what i need to take off to get to it?
 
true to to be honest the oil in my gear box is not either !!! is a mucky brown/grey so not much dif from the sump oil

ive just had a email back from local landrover dealer ,he does the jatco gear box oil for 10 euros a ltre ,does that sound about right
Get a gallon of Carlube ATF-U. It's much cheaper than the LR stuff and higher spec too.
 
Well what a ####ing day :mad::eek::censored::censored::censored:

where to start!!!!!
was going to start with topping up the gearbox

took the newly cleaned under tray off and :censored::censored::censored:
traced the leak to :mad:
(the cam cover)

as you can see i think JOHN ####ing WAYNE used to own this car :mad:
again some kind of bodge job sealant to hide a leaking cam shaft seal !!!!!!!

any way after finding that i started to top up gear box oil ,i put 1 ltr of new oil in with engine running and level screw out and got this

new oil colour

now the old oil ,def needs to be completely change
its all thick,brown and stinks !!!!

took for a little drive to see if any dif in gear change ,and def less jolty !!! so next is a complete 4 ltr oil change for the box

but then :censored::censored::censored: disaster struck !!!!!!!!!!

dropped the entire coolant everywhere :mad::eek:


was well ****ed off!!!! was thinking water pump :mad::mad::mad:

i refilled the system best i could with fresh water to see if i could find the leak and



yep after looking again its def from there!!!!!!!! which is def better than the water pump lol

i poured some water into the V to ensure water ran out of the engine in same place and it did in fact with a touch i found its pouring out of here
(pic taken from internet not mine)

any right ups on what i need to take off to get to it?

That's the elbow pipe. They can be a pain to get at. It's easy to get at if you remove the inlet manifolds.

You are finding some hideous bodges on this Freelander. I'm curious as to why the cam seal is leaking? They should be good for 100,000 + miles. It'll make a nice motor, if you stop finding new faults. The emissions fail is a bit odd, normally the KV6 is very clean running. I'd be looking for air leakage into the manifold area or the cruise control pipes. One is split in the picture so more could be too.
 
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well been a lovely afternoon ,sun out ,rum in fridge chilling
so the thermostat removal here we come

started to strip engine





was a pain in ass ,fuel rail was on tight lol anyway trying to get to inner bolts on manifold was crazy ,so decided to try and undo the pipes first

that did not work lol could not bung them :mad:

but after a while i manage to get the bolts free from first mainfold,then second was easy :)


next to prove it was the thermostat at fault !!(and not the water pump)







result

pulled the thermostat out and like i was told the bottom snapped in block lol easy to remove
found which part had gone


now clean up and wait for new part to arrive


good thing come out of this in end ,i knew no water was in the oil and now after this and flushing the rad etc i know theres no oil in the water so all seems good:):):)

also will here after reading my emissions could be a air leak i started to look for the cruize control mod ,i think this is it?


and if so this pipe is def split

could that cause high idle emissions?
will look for other leaks
 
well its saturday and im bored ,no parts arrived yet so all i can do is drain the gearbox

top up rubber plug,main plug and drain plug all out
even though the oil is horrible the magnet only caught this
(wiped on paper towel)
nothing apart from what it should be so no bits of gears or anything which is always a good sign lol
as you can see its black !!!
seeing it was in a black bowl this is a better pic


now thing is im sure i read the gearbox holds 4 ltr of oil????

but i measured this and i only had 3.5 ltr

and the other day with engine running (39c)and priming throw the gears before i checked ,i topped the box up till it was coming out of the check plug hole !!!

so did i miss read or am i missing around 1/2 a ltr somewhere? i did drain box from cold (no thermostat in car so no water so of course no start lol)for about 30 mins ,then re plugged her do you think i may find more oil in her in morning,maybe 30 mins was not long enough
 
The FL1 Jatco holds about 8.5L from dry. When refilling after dropping the oil you will need to
buy 4L to refill, and probably use only 3.5L if you follow what we did in this fred, which is said
to be the correct way.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-automatic-gearbox-69336-5.html

Oil colour is difficult to photograph. The original LR stuff is cherry red and turns brown if the
bands/clutches are wearing. There's a number of other oils which peeps use which are different
colours. So you don't always know if yours has or hasn't changed colour. Smell is the best bet
to know if the oil is burnt due to band/clutch wear. It will smell burnt if this is the case.

If you put back the same amount you took out when it was working, then presumably it will
continue to work. If yer concerned about the level then do the level check when the engine is
next able to run.
 
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the oil does not smell burnt but it does stink

will get oil on tuesday and see how it goes

and when i checked the oil the other day i followed the above thread link to the T,thats why i like this forum many very helpful people on here :)
 
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where to begin lol
had nothing to do today as still waiting for parts so first i fitted my mate a towbar and electrics to his car

but seeing i was all ready dirty i had a play with the freelander again

first i took the gearbox plug out again to see if anymore oil would come out ,got another 300mls so thats good

then i decided i would check the condition of the IRD oil ,undid the filler plug ,none drained out :eek::eek: so then i decided to drop the oil and see whats what in the IRD

im sure i read some where there should be 1.2 ltr of oil in there??? sure someone can tell me ,
this is what came out of it after leaving plug out for 1 hr !!!!!!(and its black!!)

THATS IT AROUND 100 MLS !!!!!!!!!! :censored::censored::censored::censored:

Quick question would no oil in IRD make car joilt when gears change ? (i konw it will do it no good)

cant see anywhere where its been leaking out either :confused::confused:
the plug

got the **** off end ,there was no chunks of metal/teeth or anything

so then i decided to try the DIF OIL
again nothing came out of it not even a drop!!!!
the plug had what looks like grey mud on it

but again no chunks of metal like anything broke just like its never been serviced ,like i said JOHN WAYNE OWNED THIS CAR FROM NEW

so i need to drain,refill the IRD and DIF with clean oil ,could these two have anything to do with the gearrs jolting ????

and where has the oil gone? both IRD and DIF showing no signs of leaks ,no stains nothing
 
def give a hell of a jolt when gears change ,was thinking the problem was the auto box but im kinda thinking after seeing this that this could def either be the course or def not helping matters

how can people let there cars get like this ,its not hard to check the fluids in a car

hopefully it was not driven too much with this little oil and hopefully i will be lucky and found it before its to late
 
When cars are failing peeps run them into the ground and don't repair stuff on them. why change the wiper blades etc when it's being scrapped soon...

IRD should have approx 1.1L
Rear diff approx 0.8L

I think the jolt is the auto. If it's happening when you change gears it's more likely the auto. If it's happening at other times then it can be gears missing each other in the ird or rear diff but you would have further problems (cracks etc) and it would rattle as it drives.

Missing oil either leaks out or it's not been put it.

Considering what you paid for it...
 
oh i no i paid nothing for it lol

but i want to try and rescue her now,i still think she is to good to strip for parts

i will get some oil and she where i go from there ,just have my fingers crossed

the last owner had only drove the car once ,then because of a electric problem they could never get it to start again (and was told possible hgf )thats why they sold it ,it was not ment to be scapped but they could not start her ,so sold it for what the scrap value was
 
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had a quick look at the IRD today ,only place i can see where it is poss leaking is on the seal in the pic below
(taken from a thread of hippos hope you not mind me using your pic)


whats this seal called?
can you get them?
do i just somehow part the ird from the gearbox to change it?


griff
 
had a quick look at the IRD today ,only place i can see where it is poss leaking is on the seal in the pic below
(taken from a thread of hippos hope you not mind me using your pic)


whats this seal called?
can you get them?
do i just somehow part the ird from the gearbox to change it?


griff

Yes they are available. It's just a giant O ring but costs about £4 from memory. The only problem with your thoughts about oil loss, is the IRD won't leak it's oil out from that seal. The gearbox will leak out of there though. There is a "tell tale" hole in th casing to identify an IRD internal transfer shaft oil leak.
You jolty gear changes are likely to be the fluid, maybe coupled with a failed lower tie bar bush.
 
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is it hard to split?
only asking as im sure this would be best time to change as both gearbox and ird have been drained to change the oil
 
is it hard to split?
only asking as im sure this would be best time to change as both gearbox and ird have been
drained to change the oil
Depends what yer level of hard is. It's time consuming to remove
the ird and awkward due to it's location, but not impossible to do. It's one of the more difficult jobs
to do when considering general Freelander 1 ownership.

Does the colour of yer auto oil match the colour of the leaking oil? It should if it's this seal.
 
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