Galvanised Chassis swap shopping list

Hello

Learning towards swapping the chassis on my '88 90 for a galv one.
Does anyone have a shopping list of bits that I should be getting in prep for this and what to change/upgrade at the same time?

thanks

Brake pipes, clutch if you don't know when it was done.

Chassis loom if rear crossmember has been changed and someone's hacked it off and just taped it all back together.

But basically anything, cos when you start stripping out that shopping list will grow and grow and grow.

Good luck.

A lot of the list will depend on how you are planning on changing the chassis, how long you plan on taking, and how much you have to spend. If you are lifting the body off completed there is less opportunity to replace things, if you are stripping into component parts there is much more that can be changed. my list as a minimum would be the below:

All bushes
All rubber mounts
All bolts with Stainless bolt sets for everything non-load bearing (e.g. hinges/wing/etc)
All brake pipes
All clutch pipes
All suspension items but as a minimum all suspension items which are disposable (e.g. turret rings)
All of the ali repair panels YRM do for the seatbox and tub
New rear loom regardless of if it has been cut and tapes or not (autosparks)
All door hinges
All exhaust
All other parts you find along the way that need replacing
All other parts that while it is dis-assembled are far easier to replace whether they need replacing or not (e.g. clucth/uj's/etc)
All other parts you find along the way that do not "need" replacing but as you have replaced everything else old parts now look shoddy (e.g. windscreen seal)

New bushes, bolts, lots of bolts. The list will be endless depending on how far you want to go with it. I started out with just wanting to replace the chassis and have ended up rebuilding it completely and repainting it. Spent way more than I originally intended but I am nearly happy with it.

Yeh basically anything. There’s an economy of scale with this job. You’re better off taking a few extra weeks and making sure you check and replaced anything that’s needed.

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You can buy a complete set of the nuts/bolts etc designed for the chassis change, can't remember where, but Google is your friend there. Expect to use a grinder to remove a lot of the old ones, unless you enjoy days of bad language and skinned knuckles - hex instead of bi-hex spanners and sockets will help too. I replaced all the non structural bolts with stainless steel. It's a great opportunity to repair any dodgy electrical connectors, a bag or two of those and a soldering iron will be useful too.

a grinder and a burner and a lot of new bolts/nuts....it'll save you hours and hours and a lot of effort......just burn every bolt off

Replacing the chassis on my 1986 90 early next year, Richards chassis ordered with a delivery date of March which will leave me a couple of weeks to prep the chassis and then I will SORN the vehicle 1st April to really get stuck in.
As already stated, the shopping list will be extensive (unless you have kept on top of things over the years) so whatever you think you will need, you are likely to need much more as you get it apart.
The list from DAG019 is about right.

I can thoroughly recommend the use of SS fixings (suitably lubricated of course), I first used them on mine 19-years ago and whenever I have to remove items they come apart with ease (haven't suffered a seized screw / nut or bolt since).
I had my rear tub off this summer to get it stripped & painted ready for the re-chassis (I just want to remove the tub as a single lump next year rather than stripping it down and sending it off to be re-painted then). Everything came apart fine but I did have to replace things like the metal fuel filler tube which was looking distinctly worse for wear. Likewise I will be replacing the fuel tank & pipes, the tank still looks sound but it is at least 20-years old (as long as I have owned the vehicle) and even though it has always been Waxoyled it can't last for ever. I also fitted galvanised steel doors, had them painted and built them up so next year I just move them across as built up units with no worry of there being any corrosion present. A bonus is that I can align the bulkhead etc to suit the new doors and not have the hassle of re-aligning at a later date. If you suspect that your bulkhead may be anything less than sound then you are looking at stripping it whereas it is nice if you can swop it fully built up, if it does need repairs then make sure they are done with it bolted to the chassis to make sure it fits! Likewise you may find corrosion to the alloy panels and as already stated, you may need some YRM repair panels.

I wouldn't worry too much about a definitive shopping list at this stage, as you start to strip it down you will see what needs to be replaced and most items are available in a couple of days but I agree that you should consider doing whatever is required while you have all that lovely access and it is a good way of pricing the job up so you aren't in for too much of a shock when the time comes!