Galvanised bulkhead

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chrisstdt

chrisstdt

Well-Known Member
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scottish borders
Just put my finger through the footwear on my bulkhead ( next to lower door hinge)

I could repair it (again) but I've looked at galv bulkheads

I wouldn't touch shielder after the chassis they once sent me !

SP are the cheapest but it says in the ad they aren't the best and may need some modification to fit !

Has anyone tried one ?
 
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I fitted a shielder bulkhead and it is fine. I was expecting to have to modify it mind. Saying that I did have to open up the holes for the door hinges but that was it.
 
neilp1 said:
I fitted a shielder bulkhead and it is fine. I was expecting to have to modify it mind. Saying that I did have to open up the holes for the door hinges but that was it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply
There's a new one on ebay as the customer wasn't happy with how it fitted
 
neilp1 said:
I fitted a shielder bulkhead and it is fine. I was expecting to have to modify it mind. Saying that I did have to open up the holes for the door hinges but that was it.
Click to expand...
I had issues with Sheilder over my D2 chassis...BUT...the series 3 bulkhead was fine.
:)
 
Unfortunately cannot help on recommendations but I have a related question . Has the number of companies now making new replacement bulkheads increased and killed of the companied repairing and galvanising? Looking at the current price of a new replacement it is only slightly more than I paid for a refurbished and galv one pre covid. Are the only sensible options now new or do the refurb yourself?
 
chrisstdt said:
That would make sense

I've a spare bulkhead that I could repair and have galved but it's the internal rust that I can't see that worries me
Click to expand...
The place that did mine previously acid dipped the bulkhead before repair. So the internal rust was removed that way first. I have one that I am in the same position with for my station wagon. But if I can’t get find somewhere to acid dip it myself I don’t think it would be worth it.
 
chrisstdt said:
Just put my finger through the footwear on my bulkhead ( next to lower door hinge)

I could repair it (again) but I've looked at galv bulkheads

I wouldn't touch shielder after the chassis they once sent me !

SP are the cheapest but it says in the ad they aren't the best and may need some modification to fit !

Has anyone tried one ?
Click to expand...
I fitted a shielder bulkhead to my 1971 S3 last year and had no problems at all with its fit or alignment. The ordering process was a bit lengthy but the bulkhead is good. Some excess galv in places, some holes missing and a couple that seemed to be ‘extra’ and a slight ripple in the sheet above the transmission tunnel due to the galv process but otherwise square and true to original dimensions. All good.
 
Depends what you really want - I have just fitted a Ultra Bulkhead which was really good and have another to fit to a firends 90 - with Galv your going to get a cirtian amount of warp that you will have to just work with and exsessive galv in places so you will need a dremel to clean little bits and you just need to accept its not going to just 100% line up it will be close about 99% and will just need to work with it.
Your other option is ecoat and think richards do a fully pressed one that looks good this should just fit no issues and you wont have the warp/exces galv to deal with and will be more factory fit easier.
 
work at a Enginering company that makes both Stainless Steel and Galvanised metal Items (not Land Rover Parts). Stainless is more brittle and wont have the same tensile strength. also why cirtian load points shouldnt use standard 8.8 equivelent Stainless Steel bolts. adds a weak point. looks very shinny though.
 
did you read it?

you may have missed this section.

6. Brittleness​

Stainless Steel is more brittle than Mild Steel. Stronger metals also tend to be more brittle; when there’s a higher impact force, the metal (stainless steel) tends to break rather than bend. On the other hand, when exposed to a higher impact force, Mild Steel may bend rather than break, making it less brittle.

4x4 driving could lead to impacts. so maybe stainless not good for a big structural part like a bulkhead or mounting bolts?

there are some very strong stainless steel's but i dont think they are using 400 Stainless and even so im not saying its not "strong" but that dosent mean this application is technically a good idea it solves the corrosion issue but ads another brittleness issue and for £5K my standard bulkhead got 27 years and was ok could have been patched and lasted another 5-10 but my new ultra galv bulkhead for £1600 in raptor so say £1800 should last another 30+ years and was easy to fit so is beter value.

but if your just driving your landy round town and no chances of shocking it then go for it.
 
no we are still. where the 2 large outer feet of the bulkhead mount to the chassis is where you could "potentially" brake it. the front mounting plates are still valid but i think would be less likely/less of an issue.

I was using the bolts as another example but same principle. still thinking of the chassis to bulkhead bolts.

the forces going through the body/chassis when going off road will find a weak point and if the rest of the body has some flex will cause more of a shock on the stainless that wont.
 
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