Fuel Rail Pressure sensor & Harness change

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Thanks for all the info in this thread guys. I've had the problem for about 12 moinths now. Local garage couldn't find the problem but thanks to a Landy bloke I was speaking to last Fri and all the info on the thread I've bought the harness for £31 + postage & VAT and fitted myself in about an hour.
 
Quick Q - having now done this, would it be advisable to use a bit of epoxy to seal the hole even more than just the rubber that came with the cable? Or is that rubber grommet sufficient?
 
zoolander said:
Well Ive just changed the loom and all fixed - MIL off car running fine.
Got a good discount from a Land Rover dealer in Kent cost £32.34. The new loom is shorter than the original so has to go directly to the ECU box. Probably the proper way to install this would be to drill a hole in the side of ECU box and install thru there. I made a small cut in the top of one of the rubber shrouds carrying cables into the box and inserted the new cable there instead, wrapping the shroud in insulating tape.
The 3 new wires went into a plug at the front of the box. This is the third plug from the right - I removed the other two to enable access to the plug to be worked on.
The plug you need has one black block and one grey block. Each block is numbered with 4 rows of 13. The two blocks can be slid from the holder to enable fitting the new wires shich are a push fitting.
pin 20 is brown/green
pin 33 is blue/black
pin 35 is white/yellow
Click to expand...

Brilliant feedback on this fix if only more people took the time to do this. many thanks.
 
My fuel pressure regulator, harness and o ring seal have been replaced at a cost of £300 plus labour, however the diesel is leaking on to the rail and samp guard. Did the mechanic miss out on something? How can I stop to leakage? This is a Freelander TD 4, 1.8L - 2006 model
 
angeloc said:
Is it a TD4 or 1.8L ? One is diesel the other petrol.
Click to expand...

Ah sorry just read again - you say diesel - looks like he has either left off or split a fuel return pipe off the top of an injector - take the cover off - if will be obvious I reckon.
 
Yes it is diesel - can the error be rectified or would I have to replace the pipe altogether?
 
It is simple braid covered rubber hose - there are connectors on top of each injector to link it all to a hose at the end (left hand side) where unused diesel goes back into the system. It's a 10 min job - easy to do. I think the hose is 6mm but cannot remember now - I changed all mine a couple of years ago.
 
Here is a photo - you can see the hose across the top of the injectors - linking each via the T pieces. These are held in place by a small stainless clip. If you remove any be careful - don't lose the clip and the t piece can be fragile so lift out carefully - they fit into a rubber o ring. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365617229.053028.jpg
 
Thanks for pointing me to that direction. I'll have a look over the weekend & revert. Was quite worried about the leakage. The car is running perfect though - just the smell of diesel which is disgusting. I have grounded the car anyway.
 
PWOK said:
So is it this hose that could have been split or left off?
Click to expand...

Yes - I would put a bet on it - easily missed or even broken t piece.

I wouldn't drive it like that - it puts out a lot of diesel. If you have the same engine cover as mine there is a separate panel with bolts around - pop this off and all will be seen. If it is then dry off the diesel spill around the injectors while you are at it.

I am also a Motorcyclist so please don't drive spilling diesel - it is the cause of do many motorbike deaths and accidents as it is do so slippery on a bend for bike Tyres - cheers
 
Also - the car will run ok with it because it is simply unused fuel being returned - that adds to the evidence
 
In trying to find out what's causing my EML to come on going up hills at 60/70mph I've read this thread.

Were the symptoms the EML light on intermittently or all the time?

I can make mine come on if I give it a bit of "boost" going up a hill for longer than 5secs (i.e. Turbo under load).

I've changed Fuel filter and Turbo Solenoid and am trying to avoid the £600 for a new Turbo so looking for other possible solutions....any advice?
 
Thanks - yes my plug looks fine no greening or oxidisation and I've no problem with power until I push it going up a hill...downhill and on the flat it'll pass the legal limit no problem.
 
Ladies/Gents. You are a savvy of geniuses.

After having problems with my TD4 for 6 months, and numerous garages taking a look (unable to ascertain the problem), I continued to have running problems, irregular stalling issues, refusal to start, loss of power, etc. I changed the fuel pump and filter - no change.

Then I saw this post and bought the official LR repair kit to the pressur sensor switch. Have now changed this and the damd thing only goes and runs like a bloody dream !! It feels like a different car.

Awesome post - awesome pics from Zoolander - Awesome advice. Thank y'all so much.

Right, discs, pads, rear brake pipes and exhaust box next ....... :) :)

... M
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Freelander 1 Which sensor is this?
Replies
3
Views
225
Arctic2
Arctic2
D
Disco 2 td5 fuel purging doesn't work?
Replies
2
Views
233
sierrafery
sierrafery
M
High fuel rail pressure sensor voltage
Replies
2
Views
1K
Mbeal2024
M
Robeen
Freelander 1 L series MIL
Replies
2
Views
761
Toyota Twonk
Toyota Twonk
A
A loose bolt on CAM sensor
2 3
Replies
44
Views
3K
Arctic2
Arctic2
Back
Top