Fuel pump woes

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doodle bug

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Hello all.. I decided in my wisdom to renew the fuel pump on my 1990 r/r 3.9 efi classic ! BUT the one i bought supposedly for that vehicle does not work ? ( thank you Britpart ) does anyone know the make / part number for the correct one as the britpart one is nothing like the original .......ps if i had half a brain i would have taken photos but due to needing the vehicle straight away i put it back in :rolleyes:
 
I have a 3.5 hotwire efi from a 1992 Disco 1 (so similar efi wise) in my Landy and used this in-tank fuel pump for a RRC - PRC8318.

The add states "Suitable for ALL Range Rover Classic V8 EFI vehicles up to 1990 approx (up to chassis No; GA464553)".
(I had to shorten it a little bit to fit a 90 tank but should be fine for a RRC tank).
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261202611181
 
I have a 3.5 hotwire efi from a 1992 Disco 1 (so similar efi wise) in my Landy and used this in-tank fuel pump for a RRC - PRC8318.

The add states "Suitable for ALL Range Rover Classic V8 EFI vehicles up to 1990 approx (up to chassis No; GA464553)".
(I had to shorten it a little bit to fit a 90 tank but should be fine for a RRC tank).
View attachment 316737


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261202611181
Thats the same as i bought ! it doesnt work and my chassis number starts at GA4501767''''''''''
 
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Thank god mrs doodle took a photo ! the one on the right is the original the left one is the new one ..
 

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This has become a problem with parts for old cars, not just LR products.
So called 'genuine' components have long since been unavailable (even to those owners that could afford to pay the premium prices) so aftermarket suppliers make a killing by satisfying demand.

Nobody knows where such components are manuf. or the level of quality control applied.
Having said that I've had a few 'genuine' items, mainly ignition components, that I've returned to the supplier(s) as being totally inferior.

They don't make 'em like they used to :(
 
Thank god mrs doodle took a photo ! the one on the right is the original the left one is the new one ..
That looks like a PRC7491 for Triumph/Rover V8 Sender & pump, but I don't think they are available anymore.
s-l140.jpg


renew the fuel pump on my 1990 r/r 3.9 efi classic ! BUT the one i bought supposedly for that vehicle does not work ? (

What do you mean by "does not work"? Doesn't fit or doesn't run or runs but doesn't pump properly?
 
That looks like a PRC7491 for Triumph/Rover V8 Sender & pump, but I don't think they are available anymore.
View attachment 316791



What do you mean by "does not work"? Doesn't fit or doesn't run or runs but doesn't pump properly?
When I finished fitting it I plugged it in and got nothing ? ☹️ Last night I borrowed another new one from a mate and got the same results ! Refitted the old one and it runs perfect... I've a feeling things are going to get messy unless I can find a decent S/H one ☹️
 
When I finished fitting it I plugged it in and got nothing ? ☹️ Last night I borrowed another new one from a mate and got the same results ! Refitted the old one and it runs perfect... I've a feeling things are going to get messy unless I can find a decent S/H one ☹️
When you say "got nothing", do you mean the motor does not run? Or the motor runs but no fuel??
I know nothing about the Classic, but the motor should run on the pump even if it's the wrong one. If the motor runs but you get no fuel, it could be that the polarity is wrong for the new pump so it's running backwards hence no fuel.
As a last resort, you could leave the old pump in place and fit a suitable FACIT pump in the fuel line under the bonnet.
 
I had something very similar with my own - 1986 3.5EFi - which turned out to be the live feed wire.
Old pump had failed - lots of noise before it died.
Fitted the new & nothing.
Bit of head scratching & out with the digital multimeter.
Almost battery voltage showing at the connector in the wheelarch but still no run.
Traced all the way back to the fuse & still OK voltage.
New pump ran fine when connected to a separate battery & the car started. (Didn't manage to blow myself up :))
Decided to check the live at the connector in the wheelarch with a 12 volt bulb.
Nothing, not even a glimmer.
Checked along the wire using a pin to pierce the insulation until the bulb lit.
Which was about an inch up from the connector.
Turned out that 30+ years of exposure to the elements had caused the wire to corrode away to just a couple of strands inside the insulation, enough for a digital MM to show the expected reading but not enough to pass the current required.

ETA I did have fun with a previous pump (might have been the one that failed) after fitting a new tank some years ago - old one had corroded through at the seam.
All fitted & fine until I ran the fuel down to where I would have expected the low warning light to come on.
The low warning light did indeed come on & very shortly afterwards the car slowly came to a stop - fortunately not on a busy road.
Puzzled as I knew I could get at least 30 miles after the light came on with the old tank & putting a gallon in had restored normal service.
Pulled the pump & measured the depth of the tank from the hole. Slightly deeper than the old one.
Examination of the pump showed that there was some adjustment & that solved the issue.
I spoke to the supplier & we measured the other tanks he'd got in stock. No two were identical!
 
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