Fuel pump wiring

further to my other thread, does anybody know which pin on the in-tank pump sender for the 3.9 D1 is the live feed, better still what colour wire is it that feeds the plug?

Ta muchly

Just thought all I need to do is trace back from the inertia switch, I believe that is directly in-line between the relay and the pump.....

That's a job for the morning.

DiscoPol said:

Just thought all I need to do is trace back from the inertia switch, I believe that is directly in-line between the relay and the pump.....

That's a job for the morning.

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It is. There was a thread on here recently, not sure if it was rrc disco or v8 forum.

The fuel level sender feed back to the dash is on a green-black wire.
The fuel pump 12v supply is direct on a white-blue wire from the inertia switch on the rear engine bay bulkhead, then there's a fuse (no.6 in the under bonnet fuse box) and then on to the relay for the pump electrical supply.

Cheers for the input chaps, all sorted now.

Picked up a fresh pump today from my local friendly Landy parts place in warsaw on a sale or return basis and swapped the plug over, turned the key and heard it kick in, so out with the old one in with the fresh one and all is good again, at least i can now get to the local LPG place to fill up the gas tank and not need the new tank pump again until the cold weather returns

DiscoPol said:

Cheers for the input chaps, all sorted now.

Picked up a fresh pump today from my local friendly Landy parts place in warsaw on a sale or return basis and swapped the plug over, turned the key and heard it kick in, so out with the old one in with the fresh one and all is good again, at least i can now get to the local LPG place to fill up the gas tank and not need the new tank pump again until the cold weather returns

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Jolly good. Take it you fitted a pump kill switch with the LPG system

cooltide said:

Jolly good. Take it you fitted a pump kill switch with the LPG system

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I'm told the pump has to stay running to circulate the fuel in the rails to stop it overheating?

seems fair enough, although i could drain the fuel back and isolate the pump for summer but it is nice to have the option of switching over to liquid gold when the gassy stuff runs out, no bloody tank gauge for the lpg at the moment but im having a fresh tank put in over the summer and going twice the size and having a gas level gauge fitted this time.

Knew someone had a kill switch in centre Cubby box but not sure what you mean by overheating, the injectors kill and the pump recirculates. I posted on here about the difference in fill times at the LPG pump. I thought it was down to fill hose diameter, but 4 hole tanks fill quicker apparently which makes sense as my first converted rrc had a 4 hole tank as well as a 19mm flexi fill hose attached to tow bar. Since then I've had a few with copper 8mm fill pipes and thought that was the reason for slow refuelling

cooltide said:

Knew someone had a kill switch in centre Cubby box but not sure what you mean by overheating, the injectors kill and the pump recirculates. I posted on here about the difference in fill times at the LPG pump. I thought it was down to fill hose diameter, but 4 hole tanks fill quicker apparently which makes sense as my first converted rrc had a 4 hole tank as well as a 19mm flexi fill hose attached to tow bar. Since then I've had a few with copper 8mm fill pipes and thought that was the reason for slow refuelling

Click to expand...

I have read the petrol in the rails can get a tad warm just sat there, so the pump is kept running to allow the fuel to return to the tank. This is my first lpg motor so im learning as i go, lets put it this way i wont let the light stay on on the petrol gauge for so long next time, i think i cooked the pump by letting it sit in a dry tank when i was sorting out the timing and dizzy replacement. there were lots of attempts at starting and i think i simply used up whatever was in there and once it was running on lpg so well just didnt refill as quickly as i should have.

the pump is new and cheap if im honest so if it kills another one i will look at isolating it, i am thinking of just getting rid of the petrol tank and replacing with a lpg tank too, always an option but stopping the reducer from icing in the winter might be an issue, so i will see how it goes.

As for 4 hole tanks, they do fill a lot quicker apparently and if i want a fuel level indicator i need one of those anyway, currently have just a 55l tank in there which gives me about 150 miles ish on a fill so upping to the maximum i can fit in there is something i am going to do when it needs replacing in the summer.