Fuel pump tweaked

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Deisel

New Member
Posts
5
Alright folks just bought a landy thats had the fuel pump tweaked by the previous owner however it seems to be burning a bit rich was just wondering if anyone knows of anywhere in doncaster where i can have it reset to standard..
Cheers
 
Black smoke = wasted fuel, there are quite a few threads on tweaking, using those you could just reverse the process, just a thought :)
 
If it's chucking out quite a bit of black smoke, don't just assume it's the pump. (If you have)

It may have been tweaked, but there may be other factors which are making it smoke. First rule out that the engine is getting enough air to match the increased fuelling. Check the air filter isn't dirty and old, and make sure that there are no splits in the induction pipework. Is the intercooler in good order, and if there's a snorkel fitted, is it fitted correctly and as non-restrictive as possible.

Also consider whether the turbocharger is supplying enough air for the tweaked fuelling. Instead of cutting back the fuelling, you could tweak the turbo to match (if it hasn't been already) as there's scope for a healthy turbo to boost a little more. This way you keep the benefits of the improved power with less particulate slag being deposited out the back, although a tuned TDI will generally always smoke a little more than standard.

If a TDI is tuned with both the fuel pump and the boost pressure accordingly and in moderation, you should see minimal more smoke (as bit is inevitable, especially off boost) increased power, and no real negligible effect on fuel economy.

Worth a thought.
 
You can either adjust the actuator nut a little, which either puts more or less pressure on the spring forcing the wastegate closed. (More spring pressure means the wastegate stays open for longer under more boost pressure)

Or you can fit and adjust a bleed valve or boost controller. Both do the same thing, but different ways. You tap in the controller between the boost pressure outlet on the turbo, and the actuator diaphragm. This essentially limits the pressure that the actuator sees, thereby making it open later, and the engine sees more boost for longer etc.

Either way you will need a boost gauge so you can see how much boost the engine is running. This will need to be tapped in as close to to the inlet manifold as possible to show a true pressure. Or better still, tap it into the manifold.

These engines generally run at about .6 or .7 bar (8.5 - 10psi) but are generally capable of boosting to 1bar (14psi) reliably. I personally ran a 300TDi at 18psi on heavy load, but not sure I'd recommend it!
 
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