Hi all! I was just wondering if someone could please explain to me why Rave suggests that I should set my fuel injection pump timing to 0.9mm after 20,000km. I have recently changed the pump, and set it to this, but I'm having a bit of an issue with cold starting. I've exhausted all the other options I can think of with this, including non return valve, new in tank pump, glow plugs, battery, etc. When I had my old pump on and set to 1mm as advised for hot start, it didn't help it but I had no cold start problems!! Could this be a reason why I have it now?
Fuel Pump Timing Explained Please!!
- Thread starter mattkim
- Start date
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It tells you to adjust to .9 after 20,000 to allow for chain stretch.
when you set it up are you 100% sure you where in the correct hole as you could of got hooked up on the other close holes to the correct one.
wammers and datatek are the hot ones on this subject sure they will be along soon
when you set it up are you 100% sure you where in the correct hole as you could of got hooked up on the other close holes to the correct one.
wammers and datatek are the hot ones on this subject sure they will be along soon
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It is changed to allow for stretch in the chain after a time!
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
They are not holes the are timing pips, one 40 degrees before and one 20 degrees after TDC. The hole for the timing pin is between them. The ECU receives signals from them and compares the point of injection signal from number four injector, then modulates the timing solenoid to obtain correct injection timing subject to engine speed and load. If you are not careful when doing pump timing, timing pin can get hung on either one putting your settings way out. You must make sure pin is engaged in flywheel by trying to turn engine slightly either way. It should be locked in both directions before DTI reading means anything.
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Datatek
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I suppose you have checked that the glowplugs are actually operating?
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Thought it was 0.95mm changing to 0.9mm after 20k for chain stretch?
How about the temperature sender readings? Are they all OK?
How about the temperature sender readings? Are they all OK?
The odd thing with it is that after 2 warms of the glow plugs, she strikes straight up. If I only do it once she cranks over for a few seconds, would this be fuel pump timing? All glow plugs are brand new Bosch (not cheap ****), and they have been tested and all working fine. I'm running out of options now
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That would tell me the glows are not on for long enough to get hot. Either they are not on long enough or not receiving enough voltage. How long does the lamp stay on for? It should vary with temperature. Maybe 8 or 9 seconds on a cold morning 5 or 6 on a normal morning. Length of time they are on is determined by the reading from the ECU temp sensor. A failing ECU temp sensor could be your problem.
cheongthong
Active Member
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the locking pin has to go fully inside the flywheel ,
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Depending on year...there are 3 coolant temp sensors...
One for the gauge
One for the ECU
and One for the A/C aux cooling fans.
The ECU will use the coolant temp sensor to see if it is necessary bring the glow on or not!
One for the gauge
One for the ECU
and One for the A/C aux cooling fans.
The ECU will use the coolant temp sensor to see if it is necessary bring the glow on or not!
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- Preston Lancs.
The EDC ECU coolant temp sensor. The green one. As opposed to the brown single wire pre 1998 or later Blue twin wire dash gauge sensors. Or the black temp sensor at the rear of the head for overheat sensing on 1999 on diesels.
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Ok, so have checked the glow plug relay, all fine, and changed temp sensor. Just checked it against my cousins p38, both with fuel filters taken off, his is getting fuel straight away, whereas mine is after 4 seconds/when the glow plugs go off. Going to change the filter head, as I'm wondering if this may be the problem, if no joy there, I'm going to make up a new fuel line with a non return valve near the tank.
tomcat59alan
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Tired fuel pump? are you running on diesel or another fuel? veg oil will gum up the works.
