Series 3 Fuel Pump Spacer on a 2.25 Petrol

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

TheMegaMan

Well-Known Member
Posts
516
Location
Cambridge
I know this has been discussed before, and it's the forum that's highlighted to me exactly what the problem is!

I've been cursing the quality of the 'new' fuel pump I got, thinking that the valves were sticky and is what was preventing the pump working properly. It wasn't even working when using the manual priming lever. But the penny has just dropped that the reason it's not working is because the cam is pushing the lever up so far that the manual lever isn't actually doing anything.

So I guess I need the infamous spacer.

Unfortunately one wasn't included with the pump, and it doesn't appear to be in the parts book (just the gasket).

Would https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...224577?hash=item46adf4fcc1:g:WnEAAOSwNyhc64xb be the sort of thing I need? The pictured installation looks quite different from my S3, so I don't know if it's compatible. Would https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-...348183&hash=item5483cf6a2e:g:qEsAAOSw9NdXvG5I actually be more likely to be the one?

Although it's a S3, I learnt from the forum that the engine is a 5MB engine from an early defender (it's metric), and I'm a bit puzzled as to whether I should need the spacer or not. I'm even more puzzled that the pump appeared to be working fine when I was getting the engine running a year ago before removing it from the old chassis. Why it now needs a spacer when refitting it to the new chassis, has got be baffled!
 
I've just found the other thread I was thinking of where this was discussed before. @Blackburn , you said:

Some pumps require a spacer to get the arm in the right position in relation to camshaft.
My understanding is that the cam runs on the flat underside of the lever arm, so if you put the pump in angled to keep the lever up high, it'll fit in the correct position. Am I incorrect? I'm not really sure how it could be done incorrectly, other than hooking the lever underneath the cam.

I'm just worried I've got it completely wrong, now! :confused:
 
I know this has been discussed before, and it's the forum that's highlighted to me exactly what the problem is!

I've been cursing the quality of the 'new' fuel pump I got, thinking that the valves were sticky and is what was preventing the pump working properly. It wasn't even working when using the manual priming lever. But the penny has just dropped that the reason it's not working is because the cam is pushing the lever up so far that the manual lever isn't actually doing anything.

So I guess I need the infamous spacer.

Unfortunately one wasn't included with the pump, and it doesn't appear to be in the parts book (just the gasket).

Would https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...224577?hash=item46adf4fcc1:g:WnEAAOSwNyhc64xb be the sort of thing I need? The pictured installation looks quite different from my S3, so I don't know if it's compatible. Would https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-...348183&hash=item5483cf6a2e:g:qEsAAOSw9NdXvG5I actually be more likely to be the one?

Although it's a S3, I learnt from the forum that the engine is a 5MB engine from an early defender (it's metric), and I'm a bit puzzled as to whether I should need the spacer or not. I'm even more puzzled that the pump appeared to be working fine when I was getting the engine running a year ago before removing it from the old chassis. Why it now needs a spacer when refitting it to the new chassis, has got be baffled!
its the spacer in the 2nd link if you have the later pump with longer lever and flat steel p[late it bolts too
 
Yes, it's definitely a flat steel place on the side of the engine, covering the camshaft access hole. I don't know whether I have the longer leaver or not, but given I can feel the cam operating the lever as I push the pump over the studs when it's over 10mm, away from the plate and it feels like it's firmly pushed up regardless of the engine/cam position, I guess I probably do.

Thanks - I'll order one of those and see what difference it makes.

Cheers!
 
@TheMegaMan Pretty sure I have spare spacer I could put in post to you depending if you have already ordered one.
PM me an address if you want me to send it.
 
@Blackburn Do you happen to have your spare spacer to hand? Can you check how thick it is, please?

I've just been out between the showers to try and fit the spacer I ordered, and I think it's too big!

The profile is correct, but it's about 12mm thick, and when fitted, the studs don't protrude through the flange on the pump.

Is the 'usual' spacer thinner than 12mm, or do I need to replace the studs with something longer? I've not seen this problem mentioned before, which makes me think I've just got the wrong spacer...

Thanks!
 
10.58mm with both gaskets on
New pumps usually come with allen studs.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3547.JPG
    IMG_3547.JPG
    192.4 KB · Views: 166
Ok, thanks both. So seems the spacer I have is the one to use, and I just need to replace the studs with something else.
Allen studs - do you mean a stud with an allen hole in the end (https://www.belmetric.com/m8x125-co.../s8x50fblk-allen-drive-stud-black-p-6035.html), or a regular cap head screw? The latter would certainly be easier to source, although studding would make it easier to align the pump. Certainly didn't get anything like that with the new pump I'd ordered...
 
I think this is where I'm going to have a horrible mix of thread types.

Despite it being a metric 5MB engine, the cam/oil cover plate the pump attaches to (part 542600, I guess), has two 5/16" UNF studs on it. I've got about 20mm of useful thread on those, so by the time you add a 12mm spacer to the 9mm thick pump flange, I have nothing left. Sorry for mixing units, but since Land Rover can do it, so can I! ;)

I guess I need to get a stud out to find out what thread is on the other end into the cover plate. It's a steel plate, so it might be UNF all the way...
 
Back
Top