P38A Fuel pump failure

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Buzz2406

Buzz2406

Member
Posts
69
Location
Gloucester
Hi guys,

Just been on holiday to Cornwall in the old girl (2.5 DSE) and had no problems at all apart from struggling very slightly going up inclines. On getting home. Parked up overnight but won't start. Got diagnostic on it as thinking that the BCM and ECU may not have same code. Nope all fine. Cracked off the fuel line and cranked it over, no fuel and air bubbles apparent in the fuel line prior to doing this. There were no error codes on diagnostics so in tank fuel pump to be changed.

This raises a couple of questions for me:

1) Do they tend to fail that rapidly?
2) Is there anything else that I haven't thought of? I have seen posts re bacterial growth in the tank but I do treat the fuel regularly and I would imagine that changing the pump would partially resolve the problem at least.
3) I have noticed my engine management light coming on intermittently and I also get a problem where if accelerating but lift off if I go to accelerate again there is a significant delay. Could this be a symptom of a dodgy in tank fuel pump?
4) if there had been a problem with the number 4 injector I would surely have noticed more issues wouldn't I?

Any thoughts would be gratefully received.

Cheers

Buzz
 
Depends where you pulled the pipe from. If it's directly at the tank then yes.
Did you try 12v directly on the pump as there could be an electrical fault.
 
Not directly on the pump but got the auto diagnostic blokey to check circuits etc to check that all working. Also bridged the relay connectors in the fuse box to see if that made a difference.
 
Buzz2406 said:
Hi guys,

Just been on holiday to Cornwall in the old girl (2.5 DSE) and had no problems at all apart from struggling very slightly going up inclines. On getting home. Parked up overnight but won't start. Got diagnostic on it as thinking that the BCM and ECU may not have same code. Nope all fine. Cracked off the fuel line and cranked it over, no fuel and air bubbles apparent in the fuel line prior to doing this. There were no error codes on diagnostics so in tank fuel pump to be changed.

This raises a couple of questions for me:

1) Do they tend to fail that rapidly?
2) Is there anything else that I haven't thought of? I have seen posts re bacterial growth in the tank but I do treat the fuel regularly and I would imagine that changing the pump would partially resolve the problem at least.
3) I have noticed my engine management light coming on intermittently and I also get a problem where if accelerating but lift off if I go to accelerate again there is a significant delay. Could this be a symptom of a dodgy in tank fuel pump?
4) if there had been a problem with the number 4 injector I would surely have noticed more issues wouldn't I?

Any thoughts would be gratefully received.

Cheers

Buzz
Click to expand...

Check fuse 39 and relay 12. Engine management lamp flickering on in particular coming off cruise control is usually a quantity servo fault. But you could check connections to number four injector. If the car starts to stall at lights and when slowing to a halt it is definitely a quantity servo fault. Remove relay 12 and with ignition off insert a wire in terminal 5 the one that is opposite in orientation to the other three. Touch other end of wire to battery positive pump should run. Pump does not run on cranking unless the car is 1999 or on. Earlier cars only ran pump on glow lamps and when engine is running. So if your car is pre 1999 cranking will not run lift pump. Lift pump can fail suddenly lack of power on hills is a sure sign of a failed or weak lift pump.
 
Cheers Wammers. Will check this out later. Mine is 1998 but not hearing the faint whine when waiting for glow lamps to go out. Will do the checks later but clearly there is insufficient fuel getting through as air bubbles are apparent in the fuel line.
 
When replacing lift pump remember not to buy cheap aftermarket and eurospare pump(theese are petrol pumps, even though there is diesel part number on box, gives way to much pressure which alters injection pump dynamic timing and tank breather is shorter allowing to pour 10l more fuel). Proper VDO one is not much more expensive and it works - it's the same as genuine one.
 
Buzz2406 said:
Cheers Wammers. Will check this out later. Mine is 1998 but not hearing the faint whine when waiting for glow lamps to go out. Will do the checks later but clearly there is insufficient fuel getting through as air bubbles are apparent in the fuel line.
Click to expand...

As said if you have a genuine lift pump it has a NRV in it. Injection pump will pull fuel from tank but if nrv is tight and hard to overcome it will also suck air in through O'rings on filter. Check the fuse and the relay if good do the test as described, if lift pump then does not run it needs changing.
 
N2O said:
When replacing lift pump remember not to buy cheap aftermarket and eurospare pump(theese are petrol pumps, even though there is diesel part number on box, gives way to much pressure which alters injection pump dynamic timing and tank breather is shorter allowing to pour 10l more fuel). Proper VDO one is not much more expensive and it works - it's the same as genuine one.
Click to expand...

VDO pumps do not have the NRV the original genuine lift pumps had. Other than that the one to go for.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
P38 DSE loss of power when driving
2
Replies
33
Views
2K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
J
P38A p38 EAS - immediate drop of pressure
Replies
11
Views
607
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
G
TD5 Noisy fuel pump
Replies
3
Views
295
Anaconda
A
R
2000 Thor 4.6 fuel/starting problems
Replies
5
Views
470
richardtamps
R
G
P38 1995 Diesel in tank pump plug wire identification
Replies
7
Views
827
RangeRoller dt
RangeRoller dt
Back
Top