Fuel Lift pump priming problem

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EdoubleD

Member
Posts
75
Location
Oxford, UK
I've fitted a new fuel lift pump to my 300tdi today and it won't prime. This is my second ever piece of mechanical work on an engine so followed this thread:

300TDI lift pump change - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

as well as the haynes manual instructions

When I put the pump in I kept the lift arm right at the top of the entrance to the cam case essentially hooking it round and in. When I cam to bolt it up there seemed to be some resistance from the spring as the thread suggests but the pump arm seems to have very little resitance and isn't pumping the fuel through from what can tell (bleed screw on fuel filter). I tried turning the engine over for about 2 secs using the ignition and then tried again but still not getting anything. I haven't tried to properly start the engine as suggested for fear of causing damage etc.

Can anyone advise on what I might of done wrong? My initial guess would be that somehow the arm isn't sat on top of the cam shaft but then I thought I was quite careful to keep it high in the opening and drop in down into position for securing.
 
Just open bleed on filter and crank engine on strter till fuel comes out of bleed screw.
Tighten bleed screw, preferably while wife or ladyfriend is in car turning engine over, then it should start.
You wont cause any damage to engine.

Should only take about 10 to 20 secs or so to get fuel up:)
 
Having the same problem, fitted new pump and turned the engine before connecting the filter hose,absolutely nothing coming through, just to check? the lower pipe on the pump is the inlet from the tank?
Any help gratefully accepted,
 
Having the same problem, fitted new pump and turned the engine before connecting the filter hose,absolutely nothing coming through, just to check? the lower pipe on the pump is the inlet from the tank?
Any help gratefully accepted,

It really helps if there the right way round :behindsofa: talking from experience :doh:

I think the pipe that comes off the top of the pump goes to tank, the bottom pipe on the pump goes to top of fuel filter by bleed screw,

Wrong way round causes problems :doh:
 
Bottom of lift pump pipe goes to side of fuel filter. NOT top sorry! Top pipe of lift pump goes to tank, top pipe on fuel filter goes to injectors
 
It really helps if there the right way round :behindsofa: talking from experience :doh:

I think the pipe that comes off the top of the pump goes to tank, the bottom pipe on the pump goes to top of fuel filter by bleed screw,

Wrong way round causes problems :doh:

Buggrit, could have sworn the it was the other way around:confused:

Spanners, Discos and the aged shouldn't be allowed to mix:)
 
Buggrit, could have sworn the it was the other way around:confused:

Spanners, Discos and the aged shouldn't be allowed to mix:)

It took me 2 days to realise what the problem was! Was only when I was looking at pics of engine bay I realised!
 
Will get back to the morn, though looking at it earlier I have a horrible feeling I have bolloxed the olive joint mating!
20 odd years since I last tried spannering a landy, didn't realise how addictive it is:)
 
Seems that I haven't bolloxed the olive and joint,put pipes in correct order turned her over and after a few hiccups fired but back to the original problem even after standing for 10 minutes the engine turns over for ages then fires, stutters and picks up then runs like a sowing machine!! Even seems to run smoothly at 5000 revs where before she started to hick at 2.5 revs though I haven't tried it under load yet.
Noticed people saying the feed unions at the top of the tank can corrode and cause problems so dug them out and they seem fine, plastic necks with a short bit of pipe then a union to the feed pipe.
I am thinking sedimentor but would it achieve high revs ( even when standing) if this was the problem?
 
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