Fuel Leak, Kink in Pipe.

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A

ANR

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Having recently noticed a small patch of fuel dripping from the rhs front of the fuel tank support bracket, I read the RAVE manual to see about investigating above the tank. As a preliminary, I've attached a couple of photos:
1. The breather pipe has a kink in it. I was suprised to find that in the RAVE manual it is supposed to have a loop. There has never been any issue with filling up fuel, but could this kink be causing back pressure and hence a leak? Also, I'm interested, why is it designed with a loop?
Kink in Pipe.JPG
 

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ANR said:
Having recently noticed a small patch of fuel dripping from the rhs front of the fuel tank support bracket, I read the RAVE manual to see about investigating above the tank. As a preliminary, I've attached a couple of photos:
1. The breather pipe has a kink in it. I was suprised to find that in the RAVE manual it is supposed to have a loop. There has never been any issue with filling up fuel, but could this kink be causing back pressure and hence a leak? Also, I'm interested, why is it designed with a loop?
View attachment 260176
Click to expand...
It has been almost a year and I've lived with this small fuel leak. I took the rear trim out and examined the top of the fuel tank, but could find no leaks, then left it. It has no got any worse.
To remove the kink in the breather pipe seems an easy test, but since no-one replied, I wonder if there is anyone who could comment on my proposal please?
My theory is that the kink in the breather pipe is causing pressure build up. The pipe is too old and stiff to bend out the kink, and I can't trace where the end of the pipe is. So, I'm thinking of cutting out the looped section and splicing on a piece of straight garden hose. Does anyone know whether it would be detrimental to remove the loop in this way. Or, why is there a loop in this breather pipe?
I must say, having read the Rave and Haynes manuals, I'm confused by the puropse of this pipe.
Thanks,
Andrew
 
ANR said:
It has been almost a year and I've lived with this small fuel leak. I took the rear trim out and examined the top of the fuel tank, but could find no leaks, then left it. It has no got any worse.
To remove the kink in the breather pipe seems an easy test, but since no-one replied, I wonder if there is anyone who could comment on my proposal please?
My theory is that the kink in the breather pipe is causing pressure build up. The pipe is too old and stiff to bend out the kink, and I can't trace where the end of the pipe is. So, I'm thinking of cutting out the looped section and splicing on a piece of straight garden hose. Does anyone know whether it would be detrimental to remove the loop in this way. Or, why is there a loop in this breather pipe?
I must say, having read the Rave and Haynes manuals, I'm confused by the puropse of this pipe.
Thanks,
Andrew
Click to expand...
https://www.banlaw.com/what-is-a-diesel-tank-breather-and-why-is-it-important/#:~:text=Tank venting allows air to,damage, spills, and sprays.
Will answer why you have it. and I suspect there is a loop in it to prevent accidental spillage in normal driving or indeed abnormal in the case of a 4x4!
SS Jaguar 100s had a gorgeous chrome spiral on top of the tank to do the same thing.
upload_2023-2-1_14-39-46.png

Can just be seen on the right just inside of the fastener for the hood.
Nothing new really!
 
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My fuel tank leak is getting worse so have decided to take the tank out and investigate. I thought that it would give me better access to the rear chassis so I could give it a good clean and underbody seal at the same time.
Can someone please advise on the following:
1. In the Haynes manual it says when taking out the sender unit I should replace the sealing ring. So I thought that I'd order one before I start the job. I've found online part MXC1421, is this it?
2. Is it possible to buy the breather hose with the kink in it? I can't find one advertised.
Thanks,
Andrew
 
It is quite common for the fuel line with the green plug end to wear on the chassis (assuming it's a TD5 you have?), which causes a leak like you describe. Apparently can be done without removing the tank. Havnt done it personally so can't advise.
Don't think you need to remove the sender/pump from the tank before dropping it, just need to unclip the fuel lines which is accessed through the boot floor
 
ANR said:
My fuel tank leak is getting worse so have decided to take the tank out and investigate. I thought that it would give me better access to the rear chassis so I could give it a good clean and underbody seal at the same time.
Can someone please advise on the following:
1. In the Haynes manual it says when taking out the sender unit I should replace the sealing ring. So I thought that I'd order one before I start the job. I've found online part MXC1421, is this it?
2. Is it possible to buy the breather hose with the kink in it? I can't find one advertised.
Thanks,
Andrew
Click to expand...

1. NO… MCC1421 is a seal for the fuel tank inspection plate in the boot floor, and fits early RR, D1&2 and even I believe a freelander.
Try NTC5859 fuel tank sender seal, which is also used if you have a pump in the tank.
2. I expect they are still available if you know the part number.
 
Thanks.
NTC5859 is the part.
On attempting to take the fuel tank out, I've removed the four bolts that hold the cradle in place, and according to the RAVE manual the tank should be loose enough to come out. Mine isn't. I assume that the two brackets on either side of the tank are holding it to the chassis?
IMG_20230604_185624238.jpg

Odd that these are not mentioned in the RAVE manual.
Are they just hooks or is there some fixing at the top of the tank?
Thanks
 
Its a bit of a maul to get it out, they just dont drop down, it drops one end first. You can keep the pump in situ, just remove the four lines from the top.... I also had to remove the tow bar bracket bolts to get the tank off.... Mine still has the kinked pipe, I decided to just leave it...
 
Thanks. Of course, I can see now why there is no need to remove the sender unit.
So, it might be a stupid question, but do I need to remove those brackets on either side of the tank (as per my photo above) please?
I'd rather not start trying to free up the rusted bolts if the tank comes out without messing with those backets.
Andrew
 
ANR said:
My fuel tank leak is getting worse so have decided to take the tank out and investigate. I thought that it would give me better access to the rear chassis so I could give it a good clean and underbody seal at the same time.
Can someone please advise on the following:
1. In the Haynes manual it says when taking out the sender unit I should replace the sealing ring. So I thought that I'd order one before I start the job. I've found online part MXC1421, is this it?
2. Is it possible to buy the breather hose with the kink in it? I can't find one advertised.
Thanks,
Andrew
Click to expand...

Get new hoses and unions, they don't last forever ...
 
Thanks for everyone's help. I removed the fuel tank. Those side brackets didn't need loosening (they just restrained the tank at the top), but I did have to remove the tow bar bracket.
It was indeed, also, the green fuel pipe that was leaking. Someone had previously patched it up.
Good news is that the rear chassis is not bad at all and I've given it a good sand down and seal.
Regarding the green coded fuel pipe: can these be bought? (I used to have a pdf with all the LR Discovey 2 parts listed, but the computer that it was on broke). I wouldn't like to have to take off the specific clips and inset them into a new pipe. Or is it best just to splice on a but of larger bore pipe to connect the two ends?
Thanks,
Andrew
 
Just do a search for lrcat and all the diagrams and part numbers you need are there
 
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