Fuel capacity in a 101 ambi

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I run a series v8 with original engine on twin carbs, and pretty consistently get 16 mpg.
My journey pretty much consists of the same 7mile journeys each way.
200 yds at 30mph, then wind up to 50, slow to stop to enter an A road, 50 limit for 1/4 mile then 60 limit.
Pretty much full throttle to get up to 50 then 60. Have to slow down for 3 roundabouts often not dropping out of top gear (4th), straight back up to 60 after each. Slow to a 30 for about 1/4 mile then uphill back up to 60, probably for 3 miles, then slow down and turn off onto a track 2/300 yds in 2nd or 3rd to stop.
On the return the first 3/4 mile is up hill and I can only get 50, then slowing to 45 as it gets steeper.
Considering the journey I am pretty happy with the mpg.
Free road tax, no mot cost and £100 insurance gets me a good amount of savings to get me started.
It's true the free tax is very nice! I'll still be getting mine moted though. If for no other reason than to wind my mate up, the MOT tester. MInd you it's not so easy now he's employing other testers. He can just delegate. I need to get it done at some point as i can't transfer my '101' number plate onto it. DVLA won't let you do it unless it has a current MOT.

I suppose half the car getting twice the mpg makes sense, but i'm hoping with a good engine tune up i'll hit double figures.
 
I rarely drive mine, but I think I calculated 22mpg on our trip to France years ago.

International engines HS2.8 with variable vane turbo.

Ironically, my fuel is near free, so the consideration then becomes carrying capacity more than mpg.


(I am in the process of making up a replacement fuel tank which should be a fair size bigger without really damaging clearance)
 
I rarely drive mine, but I think I calculated 22mpg on our trip to France years ago.

International engines HS2.8 with variable vane turbo.

Ironically, my fuel is near free, so the consideration then becomes carrying capacity more than mpg.


(I am in the process of making up a replacement fuel tank which should be a fair size bigger without really damaging clearance)
I plan to drive to Spain in 2026 for the solar eclipse. I was leaning towards fitting LPG to mine to retain the V8, but now i'm thinking more along the lines of changing to diesel. Maybe a 300TDi on an R380. Or possibly a TD5. At least they are both Land Rover lumps.
Did you have 'fun' with the gearstick routing or did you fit an auto box?
I hate autos but this might be an easy way out.
 
I plan to drive to Spain in 2026 for the solar eclipse. I was leaning towards fitting LPG to mine to retain the V8, but now i'm thinking more along the lines of changing to diesel. Maybe a 300TDi on an R380. Or possibly a TD5. At least they are both Land Rover lumps.
Did you have 'fun' with the gearstick routing or did you fit an auto box?
I hate autos but this might be an easy way out.

Mine has the original gearbox, mounted to the new engine, using a zeus custom bellhousing (this was 20 years or so ago)

I think M&D still sell an adapter plate, but im not sure.

The gear stick on mine is raised (as in the gear stick that the operator handles), with its ball joint mounted on a fabrication.

This allows the linkage to run on top of the engine, to the gearstick on the actual gearbox. Its not overly complex.


When i was choosing engines, a 2nd hand 300tdi was about £2k, whilst a brand new, crated, hs2.8 was about £3.8, iirc.

It was a load of cash, but i was making money at the time, with minimal outgoings, so a new engine seemed like a smart move.


If i was doing it now, id fit a 300, simply as theyre more common (easier to fix quickly if somthing fails), and probably bolt on one of the variable vane turbos.
 
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