Frozen central locking on a 2006 Defender

Dear guys, I've seen many threads here about this. I have this problem very often. The central locking unlocks and then pulls the button in.

I'm gonna open up the door cards, replace the windows and locks and am planning to go over all the greasable parts and prepare them for the use in the our cold winter.

My question is, which components of the door do I have to treat and with what?

I've bought some graphite paste, Corrosion Block grease, of course WD40, which I don't find very effective.

I am prepared to open up the door cards even once a week and re-apply. But for that I'd need to know what to apply it to

Would really appreciate Your suggestions!!

Sorry to bump this up at such a busy time (beginning of winter and all). I have read many threads, but most just say 'use thin oil', or wd40, others graphite based lubricant. I was thinking that if someone has done this thoroughly and can give me a few tips

When I get it done I will return and post my experiences, as this seems a persistant problem for all in colder climates..

some people go down the Teflon route

https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-teflon-lubricant-spray-400ml/p/0342670

there are more expensive versions

Use a bit of logic, and give it five coats of thinking about followed by one coat of doing!
Any grease will thin out when it's warm and thicken up when it gets colder, similarly with the viscocity of most oils.
If you were to oil up your moving parts with, for example an EP90, at minus temperatures it will have the consistency of a thin grease which will make it difficult for the moving parts to move due to the extra resistance fo the wrong lubricant!
Might I suggest that you use either '3 in 1', a sewing maching oil (Singer do a good one) or something silimlar.
However, you will probably find that if you remove all traces of oil, grease and other lubes, you will find that the components do what they are supposed to do as they were designed to 'run dry'!
Hope this might give you a bit of help.

Wow, Seadog, thanks for this!! You are right, I didnt think about the reason for the thin oil usage :|

I will start looking at it from that angle and will report with results.. We have consistent -5-7*C , which usually gets to -15-20*C for at least a month.. but the hardest time with frozen locks is when it melts and freezes intermitently

As you're dealing with such low temperatures, I would be inclined to make sure that all traces of liquid, be they condensate, lubricant or any form of oily residue, are removed, which will then allow the moving parts to operate 'dry' (as they were probably designed to do)
Many of the metal components pivot or slide in or on plastic/nylon bushes, which negates the need for exra lubrication ... an experience learned in Norway at -35C ... when most lubes turn into solid blocks, and the sumps were lagged and fitted with small electric heaters, especially the fuel tanks and lines.
Our philosaophy was to keep everything clean and dry.

Thanks again, Oldseadog! I will try to remove all gunk and prior layers of liquids from the components.

I talked to a friend about a sawing machine oils and he thought it's the same lubricant as sold with electric hair cutters.. I couldn't find the Singer produced oil, so was asking, what is the quality differences between different brands and does a haircutter lubricant the same? Maybe You know, just asking

I did find some other brand sawing machine oils, so if it doesn't suit, I'll go buy some of those..