Front Wishbone Parts FL1

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MULDERKE

MULDERKE

Well-Known Member
Posts
708
Location
No Mans Land
Hello all.

I have looked through the archive, but all looks out of date. Need front Wishbone Part and do recall that members recommended Delphi parts. As it goes, can't find Front wishbone Assembly for FL1 by Delphi complete with rear bush.
Have they stopped doing them?
If so, Any other recommendations welcome for this part.
Thanks in advance for any help on this and tips for fitting them.

Cheers.
 
The wishbones are common parts, but come separate from the rear bushes. You need to order the wishbones, in whatever make you fancy and the rear bushes separately, either with or without the housings.
I replaced the wishbones and bushes for last year's MOT.
 
Hi Pals.
Looked at the Haynes route of doing this job, which differs from this video. Any one had success at going down the way shown in the video. As the winded long removal of the drive shaft nut, the hub and caliper?


As the Youtube version is often stopped when a problem occurs.

Thanks in advance.
 
why would you remove the caliper,he would have made it easier removing the wheel the the bush mount bolts and the under tray frame to begin with
 
To get a ball joint splitter on the wishbone joint you will need to take the hub off the driveshaft. Caliper maybe, depends whether you can get hub clear of shaft to fit puller.
 
Hippo said:
I took the brake disk oft the drive shaft to do mine. I have a torque multiplier so the 400Nm nut comes oft/on easily.
Click to expand...

Why do all that? Just use an open ended spanner on the nut, unwinding it enough for the nyloc to clear the top of the threads. Pop the ball joints by levering the nut downwards with a pry-bar and stirke the side of the knuckle with a hammer. This splits the taper so the wishbone can be lowered enough to fully remove the nut. Release the in board wishbone bolts and it'll swing down.
I don't even remove the wheels when I do them. Refitting is just a reversal of the removal process, but fit the ball joint nut on as the taper is slid in to the knuckle, as there's not enough room to fit it if the taper is fully home.
Providing the rear bush isn't stuck to the rear pin, the wishbone takes 30 minutes a side to replace.
 
Last edited:
Interesting so am i right in thinking that i can change just the front bush of the wishbone as mine is squeaking like mad and i do not need to replace the whole wishbone? also if this bush is worn apart from the noise would it "clonk":D
 
tlo said:
Interesting so am i right in thinking that i can change just the front bush of the wishbone as mine is squeaking like mad and i do not need to replace the whole wishbone? also if this bush is worn apart from the noise would it "clonk":D
Click to expand...
Just loosen the front 18mm bolt 1 turn and try bouncing it again. If it's the bush, the noise will stop.;)

Mine didn't, so I assuming the bushes are ok.
 
My limited experience to date has told me that squeaks are mostly due to the large rubber bushes and knocks due to ball joints and / or arb links. Spraying with washing up liquid is a good way of eliminating.
 
I did mine as Nodge describes. I used Delphi lower arms. The bushes are other aftermarket though (I could not separate the originals from the corroded wishbones). No need to take the brakes off - just the road wheel and have the car safely supported :)
 
Nodge68 said:
Why do all that? Just use an open ended spanner on the nut, unwinding it enough for the nyloc to clear the top of the threads. Pop the ball joints by levering the nut downwards with a pry-bar and stirke the side of the knuckle with a hammer. This splits the taper so the wishbone can be lowered enough to fully remove the nut. Release the in board wishbone bolts and it'll swing down.
I don't even remove the wheels when I do them. Refitting is just a reversal of the removal process, but fit the ball joint nut on as the taper is slid in to the knuckle, as there's not enough room to fit it if the taper is fully home.
Providing the rear bush isn't stuck to the rear pin, the wishbone takes 30 minutes a side to replace.
Click to expand...
I did mine the hard way. I rember it being a sod to get to and even more so to get oft. I had to fight it. It was 2 degrees and I was working half int garage due to rain, on othe floor. Everything was a problem. The bit i rember the most is the alternative pat's not fitting. If it were easier it wouldn't have been as much fun.
 
MULDERKE said:
Hi Pals.
Looked at the Haynes route of doing this job, which differs from this video. Any one had success at going down the way shown in the video. As the winded long removal of the drive shaft nut, the hub and caliper?


As the Youtube version is often stopped when a problem occurs.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I have
 
Hippo said:
I did mine the hard way. I rember it being a sod to get to and even more so to get oft. I had to fight it. It was 2 degrees and I was working half int garage due to rain, on othe floor. Everything was a problem. The bit i rember the most is the alternative pat's not fitting. If it were easier it wouldn't have been as much fun.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't want to change a wishbone that desperately, that I'd be messing around in silly cold temps with one.
I have had to replace a clutch with 4" of snow on the ground, not finishing till 3AM.:eek: I won't be doing that kind of thing in the future either. :D
 
Nodge68 said:
I wouldn't want to change a wishbone that desperately, that I'd be messing around in silly cold temps with one.
I have had to replace a clutch with 4" of snow on the ground, not finishing till 3AM.:eek: I won't be doing that kind of thing in the future either. :D
Click to expand...
It was needed for the mot so had to be done. He did admit it was only slight movement and considered not failing it in preference for an advisory. The knock was there but not enough to show in previous two MOT's when I asked them for their thoughts. I used the "dip one corner in the local ford" method to locate the area but still couldn't find movement. I remember it like it was yesterday. Bastid freezing it was. I now have a bigger garage to solve the problem of working in the cold. :)
 
Well.
Did them both today while the rain held off. The bolts were tight but not rusted as I expected. Once I got them moving with a VERY long strong arm they came out no problem. They seem to be a galvanised finish of some sort. The only ones that didn't want to move were the bottom ball joint. So I drilled them vertically on one flat got some Duck oil in, then give them a wack with a cold chisel, did the trick. As goes, you can't get any heat on them because of the CV boot (not that I had any) so the only way really.

Cheers all.
Cars 030.jpg
 
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