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A vid of adventures.....this is a follow on from my previous thread: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/i-sit-i-wait.313542/
Enjoy....
Enjoy....
Front Wheel Hub, Swivel and CV Joint Removal.....
- Thread starter Saint.V8
- Start date
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flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
This is me being ignorant - but on the undamaged side you just pulled the cv out - on the damaged side why did you remove the swivel ball aswell? Was that just to check for damage and replace seals while your there?
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
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- 9,773
- Location
- Near the land of 'Me Duck'
I used a ratchet spanner with another spanner one the end and still nearly ended up with a hernia
Made sure I'd had a dump first
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The other side ball was also removed, just didnt video it....
I removed the balls as the pax side top pin and bush was fecked, loads of movement.
IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,800
- Location
- Derbyshire, j28 M1
What Is this tool you use to undo the bolts? I cannot see where the battery slots on? How long did it take you to edit all that?
- Posts
- 7,877
- Location
- East Midlands
Reminds me of doing mine just over two years ago. So much of it is similar, even down to the facial expressions. We've even got the same plastic dish to use as an oil drain pan cum parts tray. The only difference is that my CV joints were good enough to re-use and I merely hammered the spanner to get the swivel balls off rather than put two together. Well done - looks like a satisfying job. When it all goes back together with new parts it feels good knowing it's all nice ad tight and will last a good few more years.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Looks easier to pull apart than the P38!
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- 16,479
Piece of cake J.....hence the move from the L322 to the 110.....life is simpler even though this is the 4th time something has been apart on her since I bought in the beginning of Feb....all due to lack of previous maintenance!!
1st was to sort out the loose crank bolt that caused excessive wear on the woodruff keys and the sprocket knocking the fuel timing out!
2nd was having to take the engine out to replace the rear core plug - while out I also did the clutch components and rear oil seal that was fitted the wrong way round!
3rd was the rear transfer box output flang nut coming loose and the flange falling off!
4th is the busted CV joint due to lack of grease/oil in the swivel housing.
Its all fun, and the cost of the parts for the above is still less than one front air strut on the L322....!!!
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
You are getting to be a proper mechanic in your old age Ant. Think you may have found the cause of the noise.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
You cannot beat Defenders for value for money.
Crank bolts seem to be a recurring theme. Seems there's a bunch of Mr Muscle types out there with arms like knots in cotton trying to tighten them with 1/4" drive sets.
Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
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- 2,930
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- Colchester, Essex
Impressive work, my mechanic skills are very basic indeed.
Dreading a failed cv needing replacement ever happening on my D1.
Just worried I'll put it back together wrong and break it even more lol.
Chris
Dreading a failed cv needing replacement ever happening on my D1.
Just worried I'll put it back together wrong and break it even more lol.
Chris
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Two or three of mine rounded and I ground the heads off, then worked on them as studs. Was a right pain.
Nice video, shows the job very clearly.
