Front hub replacement

thebiglad · Jan 5, 2015

Disco DJ said:
I bought two cheap ones from JGS. One leaked (diff oil onto brakes) within a year but was changed without any hassle (foc postage etc). Had them a couple of years now with no other issues.

Worked like a charm !!!!

Headtester · Jan 5, 2015

Disco DJ said:
Bigger puller the better. The set of 4 they do has an 8". I broke a cheaper 6" first time round!

Thanks, I'm tempted by the set of 4 but don't really need that many gear pullers and the costs are starting to add up so I'll probably just go for a 6" one unless I can find a single 8" one somwhere.

listerdiesel said:
The puller is to get the hub off the drive shaft, they usually seize in place. Put some Copaslip on the splines when reassembling.

Peter

Good tip - will do, thanks.

Bennehboy said:
Another note....

The factory fit nut and the new replacements are a DIFFERENT size. From memory factory was 34mm, but all the new nuts are 32mm, inner diameter is the same. You may fall lucky and find yours has already been replaced with a 32mm one.

That could save me some grief - thank you. It looks as if the hub has been removed in the past but I'll make sure I have the right socket before I get started.

Thanks to all for the advice, it is appreciated.

Disco DJ · Jan 5, 2015

New stake nuts I bought (oem from LR garage) were same size as what came off.
I bond-loc'd the hubs onto the shafts rather than coppaslip! Total opposite?!

Bennehboy · Jan 5, 2015

Disco DJ said:
New stake nuts I bought (oem from LR garage) were same size as what came off.
I bond-loc'd the hubs onto the shafts rather than coppaslip! Total opposite?!

They need to be bonded to the shaft, but the rear face of the hub needs to be copper slipped where it meets the axle.

Headtester · Jan 5, 2015

Bennehboy said:
They need to be bonded to the shaft, but the rear face of the hub needs to be copper slipped where it meets the axle.

That makes sense, thanks for clarifying

Headtester · Jan 10, 2015

This is proving to be difficult! So far I have broken my 20" torque wrench and a 24" breaker bar trying to undo the hub nut!

jamesmartin · Jan 10, 2015

split the nut with a chisel and fit new ones, my 1/2 battery gun rarely fails to **** them even though a few can take a minuet or two

jamesmartin · Jan 10, 2015

listerdiesel said:
The puller is to get the hub off the drive shaft, they usually seize in place. Put some Copaslip on the splines when reassembling.

Peter

or a good whack using a brass or other soft metal drift

Bennehboy · Jan 10, 2015

listerdiesel said:
The puller is to get the hub off the drive shaft, they usually seize in place. Put some Copaslip on the splines when reassembling.

Peter

It's because they are threadlocked to the splines, as they should be. Copaslip only the rear of the hub where it meets the axle tube/knuckle to stop the joint corriding in place.

thebiglad · Jan 10, 2015

Headtester said:
This is proving to be difficult! So far I have broken my 20" torque wrench and a 24" breaker bar trying to undo the hub nut!

You shouldn't be using a torque wrench to take the nut off, only to do it up again to the designated tightness.

Use a breaker bar of suitable quality.

listerdiesel · Jan 10, 2015

This threadlocking of the splines is not quite what is being said.

RAVE says to put a 3mm bead of locking fluid round the circumference of the splines at the end nearest the retaining thread.

That's it.

I've seen suggestions that the whole spline area should be coated but that is wrong.

RAVE Page 976, top of the page on the left.

Peter

jamesmartin · Jan 10, 2015

you shouldnt need to coat splines ,they should be a slow taper fit and tightening nut locks the hub and cv together

biggeeeee · Jan 10, 2015

listerdiesel said:
RAVE Page 976, top of the page on the left.

Here you go

Bennehboy · Jan 10, 2015

listerdiesel said:
This threadlocking of the splines is not quite what is being said.

RAVE says to put a 3mm bead of locking fluid round the circumference of the splines at the end nearest the retaining thread.

That's it.

I've seen suggestions that the whole spline area should be coated but that is wrong.

RAVE Page 976, top of the page on the left.

Peter

Aye agreed, but even just that bit can cause them to be quite stubborn, especially if the REAR of the hub has corroded onto the axle tube - which is almost always the case on hubs that have been on since the factory. Nowt a BFH won't sort though to crack the rime

PS... when you fit the hub to the spline it pushes the bead along coating them.... Also, have seen bearings (original timken) separate when pulling the hub off, so it's especially important to crack the hub mating face off from the axle a bit before pulling too much.

Headtester · Jan 10, 2015

Thanks guys - did all that as per Rave. Managed to borrow a 1" drive breaker bar and socket, that along with help from gym fanatic son got the hub nut cracked off.

I've swapped the hub over - will update more on the minor challenges later - all was OK on the first trip around the block, than went for a 2 mile driver and the graunching noise is still there. Had enough for tonight but will re-check everything tomorrow - any chance it could be the CV joint? ( the wheel bearing was definitely knackered).

Anything else I should check?

jamesmartin · Jan 10, 2015

Headtester said:
Thanks guys - did all that as per Rave. Managed to borrow a 1" drive breaker bar and socket, that along with help from gym fanatic son got the hub nut cracked off.

I've swapped the hub over - will update more on the minor challenges later - all was OK on the first trip around the block, than went for a 2 mile driver and the graunching noise is still there. Had enough for tonight but will re-check everything tomorrow - any chance it could be the CV joint? ( the wheel bearing was definitely knackered).

Anything else I should check?

is it noisier on corners

meego · Jan 10, 2015

Did you do the correct hub. Last one I did I could have sworn it was the offside. It was actually the near side. Jack it up, grip the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock, and see if there is any movement in the hub at all.

Headtester · Jan 10, 2015

jamesmartin said:
is it noisier on corners

Yes it is noisy on corners, it seems to be as the weight transfers to the offside

Headtester · Jan 10, 2015

meego said:
Did you do the correct hub. Last one I did I could have sworn it was the offside. It was actually the near side. Jack it up, grip the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock, and see if there is any movement in the hub at all.

The offside one definitely needed changing as there was wheel wobble - will check the nearside tomorrow

jamesmartin · Jan 10, 2015

Headtester said:
Yes it is noisy on corners, it seems to be as the weight transfers to the offside

that was the one you replaced ?

Front hub replacement

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