Freelander V6 VCU&ENGINE

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RHILL1983

Member
Posts
57
Location
United Kingdom
Recently bought a freelander for my wife a few weeks ago. Lovely V6 and looked like it was in immaculate condition and drove really well. Anyway within 10 miles of driving the engine warning light came on. There began the issues of the engine running rich and can't seem to find the issue, oxygen sensors replaced and still running rich. Now it appears the VCU is stiff and the IRD is on it way out. When testing driving it having played with the engine, the thing makes a loud banging noise when turning full lock to the left or right. Also when on the motorway all of the sudden there is a loss of power followed by and loud bang and back to normal. Generally feeling quite annoyed now and wondering what the hell to do .
 
1. Remove VCU and props.
2. Check IRD pinion for play. Also rear diff.
4. Drain IRD oil and look for metal fragments.
5. Send VCU +- IRD to Bell for reconditioning.
6. Get a decent code reader (person or machine) for the rich condition. You’ll need to look at o2 sensor activity, fuel trims, MAF output, etc.
 
RHILL1983 said:
Is it ok to remove the VCU on a V6, read on another website that this can cause the IRD to fail even quicker?
Click to expand...

You can remove the prop shafts on the V6, as with any other freelander.

RHILL1983 said:
There began the issues of the engine running rich and can't seem to find the issue, oxygen sensors replaced and still running rich.
Click to expand...
How do you know it's running rich?

RHILL1983 said:
Anyway within 10 miles of driving the engine warning light came on.
Click to expand...
What is the code for the MIL?

RHILL1983 said:
Also when on the motorway all of the sudden there is a loss of power followed by and loud bang and back to normal.
Click to expand...
Mine used to have a momentary drop out if I cornered it too fast. I never found the problem and it never flagged a code, which didn't help.
 
Nodge68 said:
You can remove the prop shafts on the V6, as with any other freelander.

How do you know it's running rich?
Click to expand...

I've got a diagnostic scanner, the engine warning light came on so plugged it in. Had a P0172 Bank 1 too rich code. We've had the oxygen sensors replaced as they weren't giving a reading at all. However the light and code still comes back. When driving I can also see that Bank 1 fuel trims are showing minus figures and around about 10% different from bank 2
 
That's an interesting one. It's unlikely that an injector has stuck open, but not impossible.
Fuel trims of + or - a few % aren't unusual, but if the ECU can't trim it back, it'll flag a code. There's not much that can cause rich mixtures on one bank, other than a leaking injector or potential a blockage in the cat.
 
Nodge68 said:
That's an interesting one. It's unlikely that an injector has stuck open, but not impossible.
Fuel trims of + or - a few % aren't unusual, but if the ECU can't trim it back, it'll flag a code. There's not much that can cause rich mixtures on one bank, other than a leaking injector or potential a blockage in the cat.
Click to expand...
I'm getting -20% on the left bank, it tends to be 10% different from the right bank on average. enough thats its flagging the Code P0172. from memory the freeze frame which triggered the code was -18% STFT and -17% LTFT
 
new VCU, bearings and diff mounts all ordered from Bell engineering, hopefully replacing this will solved the drive train issues and I've caught it before any damage has happened to the IRD.
 
RHILL1983 said:
I'm getting -20% on the left bank, it tends to be 10% different from the right bank on average. enough thats its flagging the Code P0172. from memory the freeze frame which triggered the code was -18% STFT and -17% LTFT
Click to expand...
So you have a lean command to counter a rich condition. I found this online for causes:

  • A dirty mass air flow sensor overstating the amount of air entering the engine which may cause excessive fuel delivery
  • A bad oxygen sensor
  • A leaking fuel injector allowing too much fuel to enter the combustion chamber
  • A faulty fuel regulator, which may not be regulating the pressure of the going to the engine as it should
  • A vacuum leak
  • A possible fault in the coolant system such as a stuck thermostat or bad coolant temperature sensor
  • Worn spark plugs
So I guess you need to put up these PIDs and monitor. Let us know what you find.

EDIT: Not sure about the vacuum leak - I think this would cause a lean condition, but perhaps it depends on where the leak is.
EDIT2: It looks like you have a problem in both banks, but one is slightly worse and enough to trigger the code.
 
It can't be the MAF sensor as there isn't one, but it does work out the fueling requirements from the TPS and manifolds pressure sensors so they could be out somewhat, I will order some as I think they are quite cheap.
Leaking fuel injector is a possibility, I have checked them and pulled them out and all seemed ok. Currently running a tank of injector cleaner through the car aswell to see if it improves. All the seals were good.
I can't find where the fuel regulator would be, bit of googling is needed by me I think.
I've also had all the vacuum and breather pipes out and they all seem fine. Even blew down them with fingers over the ends to check for leaks etc.
I also pulled the spark plugs out and all looked lovely.
 
RHILL1983 said:
I can't find where the fuel regulator would be, bit of googling is needed by me I think
Click to expand...

The regulator is in the pump, which is in the pump. The fuel pressure is normally around 55 Psi, which the ECU should then tweak the injector timing to maintain the correct mixture.

I've come across a KV6 which had a power valve come off and block in intake runner, causing a rich mixture, so it's definitely worth checking the inlet plenum valves.
 
Ordered a VCU from bell engineering yesterday afternoon and it's arrived before 9am this morning. fantastic service! Just need to sort the engine issue out now.
 
Been in the garage today, new spark plugs and coils have been checked. Garage diagnostic machine is showing a misfire which would explain the lumpy idle. Even the garage mechanic is confused and wondering what the problem could be? Any more ideas guys?
 
Specific cylinder misfire? I’d have a go at swapping HT leads, then injectors to see which one the misfire follows.

Did the mechanic watch fuel pressures, sensor values, etc?
 
guineafowl21 said:
Specific cylinder misfire? I’d have a go at swapping HT leads, then injectors to see which one the misfire follows.

Did the mechanic watch fuel pressures, sensor values, etc?
Click to expand...
I'm assuming they did. I will ask in the morning.

They checked the coils and all appear to be working ok and replaced the spark plugs.
 
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