Freelander TD4 Lack Of Power

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Yes will do. Although it doesn't seem a common problem. When people do experience this issue from what I have read it results in large garage bills without the problem been resolved. It would point to this as mine also runs ok without the air meter been plugged in.

Thanks again
 
Hi Again, i have had little look this afternoon trying to locate the boost pressure sensor but cant seem to find it, i have read its on the lower inlet manifold?

Do i need to be able to remove anything to be able to see it? exuse my ignorance.

The new one will be here tomorrow.

Thanks
 
It was 2 years ago I had this issue, and I can't remember now exactly where it is, looking through my posts I had previously removed the inlet manifold so it was easy to change the MAP sensor. Sorry, can't help more.
 
The boost pressure sensore is on left side and under on the inlet manifold when you look at the engine. A little bit hard to locate.
 
Hi there, mine has same symptoms, td4 automatic, on a slight incline on motorway suddenly loses power, (some call limp home mode) and I have the emmisions engine light on, a while back I put petrol in a diesel!!! Wandered if I have damaged in someway. My mechanic said the code is 1e30. Low pressure (I think) but not showing a specific on diagnostic. Now I am a woman who just drives it and fills with fuel (the wrong fuel at that) so don't advise me to change anything lol. But I've already been told a new costly turbo is needed but after reading this hasn't solved all problems I cannot afford to take risks. Any advice greatly appreciated. what should I be prepared for :(
 
By the way, when I say I put petrol in a diesel this was 7 moths ago I drove it 40 miles and it broke, aa came and cleaned it out, was fine until a few weeks ago with this issue :)
 
Hi Landyheadache,

With a symptom of low power it's very hard to diagnose over a few lines of text. As you're not an avid DIY repair person, you'll need a garage you can trust. Sometimes, it's straight forward fix, other times they'll need to chnage numerous parts to identify which one has failed, and yes, they'll charge for all the replaced bits, even if they didn't cure the issue, this is normal and to be expected, but be careful they don't change totally unnessasary parts. If you are suspect about parts they are wanting to replace, post a message here, and we'll try our best to advise.

Best of luck.
 
Common faults to check for are split inter cooler hoses.....although you would normally get a bit of smoke and a whistling noise, rear drivers side wheel arch low pressure fuel pump and filter is a common cause for this (filter should be changed at 60k iirc), and others have found the turbo vane solenoid to cause this problem as well.
 
Hi mate! Get them to check the Rail pressure sensor (located under injector cover and air intake) for any dirty connections as they tend to corrode/create an arcing tooth (resulting in resistance in the feedback line which makes the ECU think there is not enough juice getting in therefore forcing more fuel in driving the stoichiometric bonkers

Also check the MAF sensor which might give the reading that not enough/too much air is going in, also effecting the stoichiometric ratio and resulting in lack of power

I had the same problem as the first on me manual TD4 and I think it is fixed by replacing the connector. will post once finished testing

Still have the same problem on the TD4 auto but it will be about two weeks when we start testing,

Keep us updated and sorry for the essay:rolleyes:
 
Any news "Landyheadache" as I have the same problem and symptoms (already changed Boost solenoid and fuel filter) - next stop is Turbo unless I can find another solution ????
 
Hi all sorry, I didn't think anyone had responded! Thanks for all your help. It went in and had the boost part done on it. When i got it back, the problem was still there straight away. the mechanic advised me to drive it hard. Did that and put my foot down coming out of a junction and loads of black smoke came out and the light went off. Drove like a dream for a week or so. I was passing people going up hill again, something we all take for granted haha!! Drove it about 300 miles and ruddy light is back on again, intermitantly!! Its fibe when lights out but as soon as the light comes on, starts losing power etc again. Seems if i rev it hard it clears something and away we go. Found a new good mechanic who doesnt think its the turbo causing the fault. as the other one I had said it needed a new turbo for £1800! But as it is hit and miss if that works didnt fancy paying that to find it doesnt. Wasn't too sure about that especially at that price so found a new one now. Can't bear to be without my car again but going to have to take it back in soon. If anyone thinks the symptoms are like anything they've had let me know. The code is 1e30. But think he said its not diagnosing the actual fault. Typically every time I take it back to the mechanic the light has gone out and although the fault code comes up on the machine all his figures are text book!! If that makes sense.
 
Interesting zejmjien because I think that's what the mechanic said was happening the air readings. So I will suggest maf sensor thanks :)
 
a full service all parts should have been changed ,if ever you get some one to do a full service ask for the old parts before hand and that way they can not say they have binned them
 
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Hi all, just to give you an update, has been back in the garage and the problem has been found. The cat was blocked! Thanks for all your help guys :) xx
 
And thanks teddy wood will definitely do that next time I have a service, that was done by a different mechanic, who hasn't even updated my service history and ignores all my requests to do so, not even a piece of paper or receipt to prove I've even had it done!!! But you live and learn! Will stick with my new reliable mechanic!
 
I did it after my wife's freelander had a free servicing with it when she brought it some 12 years ago and being a former mechanic years ago I know how thing can be missed if you get me , well I marked everything and all they had done was to change the oil , so I took it back and they insisted that they had done it and then I told them I had marked everything , they agreed to have it back in and do it , it is then I said put all the old parts in a box for me as I want to see them I even gave them a box .they always did it properly after .but god help any other person , mind you a telephone call to head office did the trick first.
 
Hi everyone, great site with great member community, and so pleased to now be part of it. Just bought my freelander sport mk1 56 plate, only 40k on clock, but notice continual air sucking type noise when accelerating, goes when not accelerating. Also feels lack of power, mostly in higher rev/speed range. Even when the auto kicks down a gear, not that noticeable ooomph (better response at low speed though). Not really mechanically minded, and not keen to explore/spend tonnes on explratory investigation...but it is what it is I guess. Dont suppose any landy expert mechanics in local west sussex area to Lancing/Shoreham/Worthing !!??.#
All help advice greatly received#
Thx a lot :)
 
robbo7 said:
Hi everyone, great site with great member community, and so pleased to now be part of it. Just bought my freelander sport mk1 56 plate, only 40k on clock, but notice continual air sucking type noise when accelerating, goes when not accelerating. Also feels lack of power, mostly in higher rev/speed range. Even when the auto kicks down a gear, not that noticeable ooomph (better response at low speed though). Not really mechanically minded, and not keen to explore/spend tonnes on explratory investigation...but it is what it is I guess. Dont suppose any landy expert mechanics in local west sussex area to Lancing/Shoreham/Worthing !!??.#
All help advice greatly received#
Thx a lot :)
Click to expand...

Sounds like a turbo hose has split. Any smoke out the back?

Very simple to fix. Check the 90 degree one that goes into the EGR.

I fitted silicon turbo pipes from dhp sport (eBay)
 
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