Freelander rear passenger window cable

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Freelander Dad

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Hi Everybody,

My daughter has a Freelander and recently the rear drivers side door window stopped working. Having removed the door panel, I found the window regulator cable had snapped. I bought a new cable from a company called Osco trading on EBay but no fitting instructions came with it.

I have tried and tried, spent many hours trying to fit this cable, its driving me mad!!!! I am an Engineer and not much will beat me but I have to admit this one has driven me to distraction.:mad:

Does anyone have a set of instructions they could e-mail me or send me a link to them?? I have searched this site and someone has done a great job of showing how to do a front window, but cannot find any details on a rear passenger one.

Many thanks for any help you can give, I am seriously "going around the bend" with this one:(

Cheers

Jim
 
Hi I'll start by saying this answer won't be much help, however I was in the same situation. I bought the same cable off eBay and spent that long trying to fit it in the the end I bought a complete second hand regulator with cables. Right pain to fix :)
 
No worries, like I said it annoyed me so much. I tried or about 2 hours to fix it. In the end i thought I got it right an tried the window. It unwound of the spool and bent the cable so in anger I cut the cables off and bought a new regulator :) happy days
 
Just repaired front drivers window with repair kit from oksam-uk
FREELANDER WINDOW REGULATOR REPAIR KIT FRONT - RIGHT | eBay UK

I looked at a number of repair kits on ebay, but this one seemed the best, as it included cable inners & outers with nipples already attached. Also includes new capstan & sliders.
There were no instructions, so it did take me all day to work out how to do it.
A couple of points to bear in mind
  • The bottom of the glass is higher at one side.
  • will only work if the cables are really tight & tensioning these is where the knack is!
You need to remove regulator from door
Wind the ends of new cables around the capstan & fit back onto motor plate.
Clamp left hand slider in position with cable to motor as tight as you can get it.
The pulleys on my regulator had 2 channels, which provides a nifty method of tensioning the cable. Assemble the cables over the smaller groove on each of the 4 pulleys. Remove the clamp on the slider. Make sure the pulley grooves are greased, as you have to rotate pulley with cables stationary. There is a slot in the smaller pulley that you can use a screwdriver to rotate each pulley which magically slips the cable onto the bigger pulley, adding tension at the same time. Do the 3 smaller ones first, & do final tension on the big pulley.
Cables will now be really tight
Assemble regulator in door & you're away

I have seem pics of some regulators that that just have single channel pulleys, so with these tensioning may be more difficult
 
I am about to buy a repair kit for my rear n/s door, so this thread is just in time. The Oksam one was the one I thought looked best too.
 
yeah dont buy the just steel wire one as its a night mare, and costs more and you get less. I am waiting for my Oksam one too. I had so instructions somewhere, will see if I can dig them out.
 
Just seen that Land Rover Parts Shop have complete regulator units in at £50. Have just ordered a load of service items and front suspension bits from them, so we'll see what the quality is like on those first.
 
I have just fitted new regulator cables to my nearside rear freelander series 1
it is a challenge but I will explain how I did it as best I can.
1. with door panel removed remove power cable to window motor.
2. Remove the single bolt that holds the slider to the glass frame, then undo the 3 bolts that retain the whole assembly, now slide the window up all the way and tape it in position incase it slips down, you can now wrangle the unit out of the door panel, it does come out fairly easy.
3. Once out make notes or photograph the unit before dismantling as the two cable sleeves are different lengths, now undo the three torx screws that hold the motor to the frame and before removing the motor you will need to take note of what cable goes which way on the nylon pulley once this is noted remove old cables from the unit.
4. Now this is the difficult part, take the new pulley and with frame laid flat on the ground insert the left side cable in bottom hole of the pulley and wind round a 3 turns, you need to make sure that the nib on the cable on slider is about an inch and a half from the bottom of the slide rail then fit the right side of the cable and this needs to go on 2 turns, it is very tight and the springs will be fully compressed you should after a few attempts get it right, you should have both cables wound onto pulley and the pulley be set in its fixing place, you can now carefully fit the motor onto the pulley and fix, with it all together test the unit before refitting.
If you have a new nylon slider with your service kit fit this to the unit before re assembling,
Hope this will be of some help
 
I've just replaced the rear, offside cable in my 04MY Freelander......It is very daunting, when you take a sharp tool to your new (in my mind still) car!!
Follow the advice above though, and it will be ok........It took me about 3 hours, start to finish, with a couple of coffee breaks. The hardest part for me, was when I had the cables wound on, I couldn't get the pulley on the 'cradle' before fitting the motor back on......
what I did, was to leave the top little white plastic bit that clips into the black upright runner with the cable threaded through it OFF before I Torxed up the 3 motor bolts.....Then, holding it against the ground, with the runner sticking up in the air, used just about all the mandraulics I could muster to pull the clip into place and snap it home.

No pictures, I couldn't take them with my teeth!!
 
hi i found that if you leave the wire of the plastic wheel at one end of the bars it goes on easier then get somthing like a knife and ease it over onto the wheel but a big tip no matter what you choose as I have used both wire and compleat kit is to put it into possition on the door but do not fully tighten the bolts up until you have wound it up and down a couple of times making sure that the window compleatly goes into the proper position then tighten all bolts up hope this helps
 
I have just replaced both rear window regulators on my 2001 Freelander td4.

I used the landyzone advice from Andytramsa 17-8-11.

I agree the Okzam kits are the best.

I found the kits easy to use and reassemble the regulator assembly, but removing the window bolt did not seem to be mentioned in what I read on landyzone.

I found the best way to remove the window bolt requires the window to be fully down to access the bolt easily. Once removed, you can pull the window up to the top manually and tape in place. You need to do this to give sufficient space to manoeuvre the window regulator assembly out and back in after fitting the new parts.

The three regulator bolts are easy to find behind the removed door facia, but only remove these once you have removed the window bolt.

I hope this helps add to the thread
 
Hi Guys,
Just removed the regulator from my freelander. Top tip to aid removal rotate the regulator through about 90 degrees and remove the long bit first. Replace the regulator by putting the motor in first then rotate it so the long bit goes up.

Interlock
 
Just after getting my 2002 F/L in December last year, I bought the stainless steel cable kit from a guy in Scotland. With the kit, you have to glue the ferrules on and it looked both difficult and a crap idea...it went straight into the bin and the purchase was put down to experience ! I then bought a cable kit from a seller based in Leicester and the kit was far better. It comprised of new inner & outer cable assembly together with new plastic clips etc. There was also a link to a video on You Tube showing how to fit it. I found the replacement to be a doddle after following the video although I found the use of a small pair of vice grips to lock and hold the inner cable in position against the spring tension was a great help. I am more than satisfied with the replacement...just remember to give the cable a good greasing before assembly.
I have, since then replaced the tailgate window regulator cable with the same success.
:)
 
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