Freelander Project IV (Bertie)

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Hope it's right!

I'm learning too, looking at doing the intake tube mod so my watchlist is full of bits of tube and silicone hoses, just need to work out how they go together...

Now I'm thinking of a boost gauge too, always good to see what yer engines doing.
I might go that way too but for now just want to get the thing running well and have some fun with it.
 
I replaced the front speakers yesterday as the original drivers side one was faulty. I just used Halfords 6.5"/13cm Vibe 6 speakers as I wanted the job done this weekend. I've no idea how good they are compared to other makes but they seem to be about average quality so will do the job. I couldn't be bothered with the hassle of separate tweeters so jut got the two in one type. I still have the factory tweeters connected so will see how that works out.
While the door card was off I removed the speaker grills which were rusting and not very nice looking. A quick cleanup with pre-paint and spray with stone chip (my new favourite paint) and they look like new again. :)
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Also while the door cards were off I had a look at the passenger side window regulator which was a bit reluctant to go up. Turns out someone has repaired it with a kit and also used a motor from another model of Rover. I don't know if the motor is 100% suitable but I'm not going to replace it unless it fails, the main issue seemed to be the regulator metalwork was a bit rusty so a quick rub down and some silicone grease and it is fine now.
 
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I forgot to post earlier that after fitting the lift kit the wheels needed realigned. I wanted to get them close to correct before taking it on the road to get them aligned properly. This was how I did in initially.
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As expected the results were not optimal so as I couldn't get to the tyre shop this week I had another go and did it this way this time.
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The results were much better to the point where I don't see much point in taking it anywhere. :)

Edit. I had another go at this last night as it wasn't quite 100% with a very slight pull to the left. This time I strapped the steering wheel to stop it moving as the slightest movement was causing issues with both the front and back wheels believe it or not. This time it is near enough perfect and I was able to drive Motorway, A roads and B roads with no sign of pulling or wayward handling so as far as I am concerned the lift kit is a complete success and does not cause any dodgy handling whatsoever. It might shorten the life of some bushes but that is a small price to pay for making the car so capable off road.
 
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Had a brilliant day out today at an off road course near Newry Co. Armagh
Bertie was far better than I had expected with superb ground clearance. I didn't use the sump guard once even through the deepest ruts and over lots of large rocks, the 4WD system was better than I had hoped too. I was always a little unsure how well the VCU would transfer drive to the rear wheels with the method I used to recon it but I needn't have worried, I never at any time felt the front wheels were spinning on their own even up the steepest hills.

This was at the top of the mountain the course is built on where we stopped for a coffee.
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We arrived at 10am, went straight out onto the course and lost ourselves for a couple of hours. It was great fun and I hope to go back sometime but I think it would be more fun with a crowd so we can follow each other through, preferably with someone at the front who knows the way.

At mates house afterwards
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Video to follow.
 
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Since I bought Bertie I wasn't convinced he was as perky as he should be so I've been checking hoses, I replaced the intercooler hoses shortly after buying him but it didn't seem to make much difference. Last week I replaced the vac hoses and found one was worn right through at the front of the engine where two hoses plug in beside each other. While replacing the hose which connects to the rear of the vac reservoir the nozzle broke off and looked like it had been badly repaired. I mentioned this earlier in the thread and had a go at sealing it with silicone but wasn't convinced it was sorted. So tonight I pulled the silicone away and drilled out the remains and screwed in a brake bleed nipple which seems to have improved the boost issues cause when I took him for a test drive tonight he was going better than ever. :D

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I installed a turbo boost gauge which still needs to be properly mounted but on the test run tonight was showing a peak of 1.1 - 1.2 bar or approx 17 - 18psi. I'm not sure but I think that is about right give or take a bit. Perhaps someone who has a similar setup could let me know. I have a vac feed from the front D/S intercooler hose and fed through the bulkhead to the D/S foot well then up to the RHS of the dash. The gauge is just a cheapo £13 jobbie off ebay so may not be very accurate but at least it gives me an indication of what's going on.
I'll post some pics when I get it properly mounted.

I also replaced the brake pedal switch which seems to have fixed the two amigos fault, HDC and TC coming on intermittently. :cool:
 
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Don't know specifically for Freelanders TD4, but apparently the M47 when fitted to a 320D makes about 1.4 bar. Given they make 136 odd bhp, you're probably reading right for the freebie.
 
I'm sure my TD4 boosts to 28 Psi. I could be wrong as it's been a while since I looked at the live data. 28 Psi does stick in my head for some reason though.
 
I'm sure my TD4 boosts to 28 Psi. I could be wrong as it's been a while since I looked at the live data. 28 Psi does stick in my head for some reason though.
Are you talking absolute or relative nodge. ? perhaps you need more coffee - early mornings etc. lol :):p
There is no way it can be set as standard at 28 psi relative !:eek: WAYYYY too high (the sensor cannot even read that.)
28 absolute is also too low

I would say about 18 to 20 PSI relative would be correct. (corresponding to around 1.3 / 1.4 max bar relative) in a tuned state and 1.2 (ish) in standard (17/18psi relative)

Best way to check boost is with a meter on the output of the map sensor.
The readings highlighted in blue are corrected from the TD4 sensor datasheet. - these will be EXTREMELY accurate. (the figures on the left were published elsewhere but are incorrect due to innacurate use of the value of 1 BAR) - use the highlighted ones.
Simply measure map sensor output to map sensor ground.
Joe
 

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Just in case anyone else has no life worth living I thought I should point out my 'To Do' list here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-project-iv-bertie.303953/#post-3800176 has just grown to 40 jobs (the number only goes up to 37 but there are a couple of jobs with increments)
OK much of the pain I suffer is self inflicted (all of it you pillock for buying a Landrover :eek:) but most of the jobs were just to sort out faults. :confused:
 
Just in case anyone else has no life worth living I thought I should point out my 'To Do' list here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-project-iv-bertie.303953/#post-3800176 has just grown to 40 jobs (the number only goes up to 37 but there are a couple of jobs with increments)
OK much of the pain I suffer is self inflicted (all of it you pillock for buying a Landrover :eek:) but most of the jobs were just to sort out faults. :confused:

So you've almost finished ;)
 
Just in case anyone else has no life worth living I thought I should point out my 'To Do' list here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-project-iv-bertie.303953/#post-3800176 has just grown to 40 jobs (the number only goes up to 37 but there are a couple of jobs with increments)
OK much of the pain I suffer is self inflicted (all of it you pillock for buying a Landrover :eek:) but most of the jobs were just to sort out faults. :confused:
My list isn't quite so long - but that is because I haven't found all the faults or identified all the jobs yet! LOL
 
The 1.8 Freelander is fine off road and definitely doesn't lack torque. It's little 1.8 petrol engine has 118 Ftlb of torque at 2,200 Rpm. The L series has 175 Ftlb of torque at 1,900 Rpm as standard. This is a increase 50% over the 1.8 engine. So the L series has more than enough extra torque to overcome a 10% increase in wheel radius. The L series final drive ratio is slightly higher than the 1.8, but only a few percent.
So the conclusion is, the L series has more than enough torque to do what is needed, wherever it's needed, regardless of tyre size.

Of course all that is academic for me, as my TD4 has over 200 Ftlb of torque.
 
This video was taken before I sorted the vac hose issue so I was down on power. At no time did I think "you know what, I really need more torque" and that is with 225/75 R16 tyres which are a similar size to DD's so to suggest his car hasn't enough torque is blatantly nonsense. It has more torque than a healthy TD4 so this is just your way of having another dig at DD


Please keep your ridiculous vendetta off my thread.
What the hell is your problem?????

All I can say is........




















Have you got a spare room I wanna come and play. ;)
 
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