Freelander Lift Kit

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Joined Today after buying a 51 Reg Freelander, looking at a lift kit... However I see there are 40mm and 50mm kits..?

I'm I right in thinking a 40mm kit can be fitted in a couple of hours with no other modification a 50mm kit requires some modification to inner wings etc etc
 
Interesting Post gents, I note that the lifter kit ads state that inner wing mods are needed, how much butchery is required please and its just to the plastic inner wheel arch ?

Thanks
Paul
 
Hi Harleydee. I've coped and pasted the following text from a guide of how to fit the Bearmach liftkit.

Tips & tools required in reference of fitting Bearmach 2” lift kit to Land Rover Freelander. Following tips are intended to supplement the installation instructions supplied with the kit,

1) When jacking & placing the vehicle on axle stands remember you will need a further 2” of clearance to put the wheels back on.

2) The inner wing does need to be cut to clear the track rods. If a front wheel is off the ground and the suspension at full travel with the steering wheel about centred the track rod ends will foul the inner wings. If the tracking adjusting nut or the track rod end pinch bolts should straddle the inner wing the steering would be jammed.

SEE IMAGE 1 ATTACHED

3) There is a box section of the monocoque which limits how far down you can take the cutout, don’t cut into the doubler where box section is spot welded to inner wing.

4) Don’t lubricate any threads, torque settings are for dry threads.

5) Radiator expansion tank will have to be removed to get at the front offside strut locating nuts, this can just be done without disconnecting or kinking hoses.

6) The fusebox will have to be moved to get at the front nearside strut locating nuts & the battery to fusebox wire disconnected, so remember to remove the positive battery connection.

7) Use new track rod end nuts, Land Rover part number ANR 5116 ( cost about 98p each).

8) When undoing anti roll bar link nut use a 5mm allen key to stop the ball joint rotating, if not rubber boot can be damaged.

SEE IMAGE 2 ATTACHED

9) When installing the strut stud extensions use threadlock & install all 3 finger tight then torque each one while placing a lever ( I used a breaker bar ) between the other two. When replacing strut in turret tighten all three nuts evenly so as not to apply all the load on one stud.

9) When installing the strut stud extensions use threadlock & install all 3 finger tight then torque each one while placing a lever ( I used a breaker bar ) between the other two. When replacing strut in turret tighten all three nuts evenly so as not to apply all the load on one stud.

SEE IMAGE 3 ATTACHED

10) Unless you have a pit it is impossible to torque up the strut to hub bolts after putting the wheels back on & lowering the vehicle, when you take it for alignment ask the technician to slacken these bolts & re tighten them , there is a slight amount of play in the bolts & the weight of the vehicle will change the camber slightly more negative.
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hi i got landrover freelander td4 3door with putting a lift kit on it how much do you need to cut out of inner wing and has any one got any pics of how they have fitted there lift kit
 
I have fitted the 40mm kit to one of my freelanders, the inner wings still need modifying to clear the steering arms, I also had to modify the front hubs where the struts bolt on in order to get the camber right & make it drive like a normal one.
 
Thanks TD4_4x4, Thought I had thanked u before but looks like I didn't mate.

Still sussing, bit worried about having to mod the wing to fit the 2" kit whilst Freelander still under warranty, thought the 2" kit could be fitted with no mods. Not got any sense from any of the dealers on whether I need to change the sport shocks as well as the springs to get it to standard ride height before fitting lift kit.

Cheers
 
I've been told that a lift kit has to be combined with a camber kit in order to maintain straight wheels, else they will pop inwards from the bottom. Is that true?
 
Zejmjien said:
I've been told that a lift kit has to be combined with a camber kit in order to maintain straight wheels, else they will pop inwards from the bottom. Is that true?
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No, if you wouldn't go more than 40 mm , no angle problems, no inner fender cutting. Put 205/80/16 or 225/70/16 and it's great :)
 
i have a freelander and im gonna get a lift kit for it.have u tried ebay for a lift kit?there are some good ones for cheap.
 
freelanderdude said:
i have a freelander and im gonna get a lift kit for it.have u tried ebay for a lift kit?there are some good ones for cheap.
Click to expand...

you get what you pay for, as I found out with a kit I bought from an ebay seller the other week, the welding quality was shocking! Painted one's won't last 5 minutes, especially if they're just rattle canned and don't have a proper primer.

I've got bits ordered for my own design of kits, they'll be 40mm, but can custom make to any height required.

Price will be £110 delivered inc VAT. including a zinc yellow passivate finish. Getting the bits for them this friday, so may have them done end of next week, if not early week after.
 
40mm should be the most suitable for most guys on here. IIRC when I spoke to Tornadomotorsport, they told me that when they developed their lift kits years ago they found 40mm to be the best size to go for without modifying the vehicle or potentially causing damage to drivechain components . Anything above that then you would need to start looking at camber pins and cutting out the bottom of the inner wings where the steering arms pass through , or you could get the steering could get locked if the wheels were at full travel if down a rut or in a hole. Also above 50mm is where you start getting vibrations etc due to the driveshaft angles which eventually leads to failure. I've got a 50mm kit fitted and have gone through a couple of driveshafts, but this is also due to other factors such as 30mm wheelspacers and running 205/80/16 tyres with aggressive tread, thus causing even more vibration through the drivetrain. Just to make a comparison, I had a 50mm kit fitted to my V6 for 6 years running standard size Wrangler AT/R's with no problems at all.
Also I've had to modify the inner front wheel arches on my Td4 at the rear as the aggressive pattern tyres catch on full lock. See pics.
At Billing last year there was a guy selling lift kits for Freelanders at up to 70mm. Sheer madness, but he said it was his most popular size for Freelanders - most going to the ROI !!
 

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No wonder you get vibrations with those tyres lol......there a bit extreme for a Freelander. I've got 50mm lift, 30mm wheel spacers, camber bolts and 205/80/16 AT tyres. Been on for 2 years, and no problems (touch wood). :)

100_2444_zpsbc75d9dc.jpg
 
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You're right of course. But what makes things worse is when the tyres are new the vibration from them resonates through the rollcage at around 47mph . The pitch of this becomes so intense that unless you either drop your speed or accelerate harder, you become physically sick ! I swear that unless you actually experience this for yourself then it sounds unbelievable. The trick is not to drive at 47mph ............I have run it on the new Grabber AT .Drove like it was on rails with no vibration.
 
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