Freelander injection pump
- Thread starter dom139
- Start date
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Gday, new member here but been watching this thread with keen interest for some time. I don't want to thread hijack, but my question is in a very similar vein to this thread.
So a little background. I have the same problem as Dom139 had in that I've got a replacement fuel pump to fit that wasn't locked before it was taken off. I bought my 2.0 XEdi as a non-runner as a bit of a project, it starts ok on easy-start. I decided to replace my old pump after seeing metal particles in through the solenoid hole, and the fact that I had no fuel getting to the injectors.
I read with interest Mtechuk's post about how to set the timing on a pump that hadn't been locked prior to removal (woodruff slot with mark). So I went about removing my old pump from the car - first thing was to get the cam timing marks lined up so I could see about putting the two locking pins in. Here's my problem.
With the cam timing marks lined up the locking hole on the pump pulley is miles away from lining up (haven't looked at the other locking hole by the crank sensor yet but I have marked all pulleys etc) Basically the hole for locking the pump is at around the 10o'clock position in the plate while the hole in the pulley is at around the 6o'clock position. I marked everything up and went ahead and took the pulley off.
The woodruff slot on the pump is also miles from the mark on the face of the pump - 11o'clock mark compared to 6o'clock woodruff. I really expected them to be lined up when the timing on the cam pulley is lined up with the block mark. Am I missing something fundamental ? I'm confused as the way I'm thinking at the moment the car could never have been running with the timing so far out.
I'd rather not take it to a diesel specialist until I have to, time is no object nor is how much effort I have to put in. But I would like to potter away at it until it runs.
So a little background. I have the same problem as Dom139 had in that I've got a replacement fuel pump to fit that wasn't locked before it was taken off. I bought my 2.0 XEdi as a non-runner as a bit of a project, it starts ok on easy-start. I decided to replace my old pump after seeing metal particles in through the solenoid hole, and the fact that I had no fuel getting to the injectors.
I read with interest Mtechuk's post about how to set the timing on a pump that hadn't been locked prior to removal (woodruff slot with mark). So I went about removing my old pump from the car - first thing was to get the cam timing marks lined up so I could see about putting the two locking pins in. Here's my problem.
With the cam timing marks lined up the locking hole on the pump pulley is miles away from lining up (haven't looked at the other locking hole by the crank sensor yet but I have marked all pulleys etc) Basically the hole for locking the pump is at around the 10o'clock position in the plate while the hole in the pulley is at around the 6o'clock position. I marked everything up and went ahead and took the pulley off.
The woodruff slot on the pump is also miles from the mark on the face of the pump - 11o'clock mark compared to 6o'clock woodruff. I really expected them to be lined up when the timing on the cam pulley is lined up with the block mark. Am I missing something fundamental ? I'm confused as the way I'm thinking at the moment the car could never have been running with the timing so far out.
I'd rather not take it to a diesel specialist until I have to, time is no object nor is how much effort I have to put in. But I would like to potter away at it until it runs.
ah thanks - I guess I mistakenly assumed that if I rotated the cam pulley to the timing mark enough times by turning the crank that sooner or later the pump pulley mark would line up one of those times. I'll give that damned crank pin another go tomorrow - its in an awful position..
Well I've persevered and got that damned crank pin in. Cam timing mark is in alignment (it didn't move from where I had it set prior to pinning) - pin seems more like a peace of mind thing to me than an absolute requirement, probably the best thing to do though.
Unfortunately the pump pulley is still about 120 degrees off being able to put the pin in. I'm at a loss as to how that could be - unless its slipped a lot of teeth or someone has had the pump off previously and put it back on in the incorrect position. Being a non runner when I bought it anything is possible I suppose. Probably just as well theres no fuel at the injectors or serious damage could of resulted with the timing apparently so far out.
I guess I'll install my replacement pump using the woodruff/mark setting and ignore how my original pump was set - although still incredibly curious as to how it got to the position it was in.
Unfortunately the pump pulley is still about 120 degrees off being able to put the pin in. I'm at a loss as to how that could be - unless its slipped a lot of teeth or someone has had the pump off previously and put it back on in the incorrect position. Being a non runner when I bought it anything is possible I suppose. Probably just as well theres no fuel at the injectors or serious damage could of resulted with the timing apparently so far out.
I guess I'll install my replacement pump using the woodruff/mark setting and ignore how my original pump was set - although still incredibly curious as to how it got to the position it was in.
my solution to the lumpy idle is here > lumpy idle - Page 3 - MG-Rover.org Forums
