elameed elaneed
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The next test involves measuring the resistance of the soloniod valves. There's a thread on here all about it, only I can't find it at the moment.
Check for Hippo's videos on Youtube for some excellent assistance. The values are as follows. Start at the ECU end then work your way to the connectors.
Method 1 is from the circular connectors:
Method 1: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 1 - 2 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 3 - 4 = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 5 - 6 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 7 - 8 = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below
Method 1: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 18 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 9 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 10 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 11 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 12 - 18 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 13 - 18 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 14 - 18 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 18 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Pin 16 - 18 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Pin 17 - 18 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)
=========
Preferred
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From the gearbox ECU:
Method 2: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 5 - 20 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 21 - 20 = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 24 - 20 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 39 - 20 = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below
Method 2: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 17 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 3 - 17 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Pin 4 - 17 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 10 - 17 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 14 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 16 - 17 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)
Pin 17 - 18 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Pin 52 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 53 - 17 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Fluid temperature sensor resistance values: (connector C0243 and C0932)
-40 degrees C = 54900 ohms
-20 degrees C = 16700 ohms
00 degrees C = 6020 ohms
20 degrees C = 2500 ohms
40 degrees C = 1160 ohms
60 degrees C = 590 ohms
80 degrees C = 330 ohms
100 degrees C = 190 ohms
140 degrees C = 80 ohms
resistance was 1 when i connected togetherAll your results appear to be high by the same margin.
Take the two probes of the meter and hold them together, this should give the resistance of the leads themselves which can then be subtracted from the results.
Your 2-4 brake duty is a little higher than the rest suggesting it be out of spec. Mine was and gave a very harsh gear change and no 4 & 5th when warm.
yu sure?resistance was 1 when i connected together
And you measured them all off the round connector?
If so they are all way out of spec.
I follow Hippo's videos step by step
That mean i need to change soloniod
Tomorrow i will do that and i will send resultsBased on those readings yes but then I am suspicious they are so far out.
I would repeat the test from the gearbox ECU loom and check the readings.
Thanks for your advice,Be careful when you probe the plug and insert the probes in the top of the plug [where the wire goes in] and not the little tabs that are visible on the front of the plug as these hold the connecter in.
Can you send photo for device to know how it's look likeI would find a more accurate multi meter tbh. I have one of those and it's 10 or 15 % out on some ranges. You need something with an accuracy of 5% or better.
Actually i will ask electrical engineer about this, because i don't have enough information in electricresistance = 1 ....... open circuit (not connected across)
resistance = 0 ....... short circuit (connected across)
for example... a wire will give a short circuit (reads 0), leads kept apart (reads 1)
That's mean second reading was perfectIf the meter readings are 0 ohms with the leads touching each other, the meter is likely more accurate than one that is showing 1 ohm when the leads are touching each other.
For complete accuracy, the meter needs to be calibrated and certified as such.
Sorry for lateI would repeat the test from the gearbox ECU loom and check the readings.
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