Freelander Faults poll

the mad hat man said:

:hysterically_laughi

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😁

2004 Freelander TD4
Tailgate lock had to be replaced because interior light kept coming on as we drove
Drivers side rear passenger door lock is stuck and can't be unlocked and the door can't be opened.

On two different TD4 auto freelander 1

corroded socket on light unit above drivers head
two fuel pumps, one on each
seized callipers and worn out discs.
split turbo hose (twice on one car)
broken sunroof mechanism
sticking handbrake (both cars)
worn suspension bushes
brake pedal switch

However these are not exactly unexpected types of issue on a cars >10 years old and >70k miles on them.

Freelander TD4 GS 5 door 52 plate

Rear diff buggered
VCU buggered
IRD probably buggered thanks to the other two but still going in 2WD mode.

No plugs to change/top up rear diff oil.

The whole drivetrain is a triumph in ****e engineering. Heavy on the front tyres, and you have to try and keep the wear even due to the frankly ridiculous and weak design they came up with.

Rear door electric windows don't work
Passenger side door Window cable snapped - replaced
Rear doors lock but don't unlock on central locking

Back door window sticky, doesn't drop when opening rear door. Door still opens then have to push glass down.

Speakers are ****, and have a funny fitting so difficult to fit aftermarket ones.

MAF sensor problems when towing a caravan of all times. Had no power and nice clouds of smoke. - Replaced

Another time when towing the caravan the turbo hose split.

The brake caliper thingys in the rear drums go brittle and fail, ****ing away all that lovely and important brake fluid. At least the handbrake still worked

Brake pipes rotted. Why oh why don't they use copper.

The rear drum brakes are a nuisance full stop.

Even changing the front pads is really fiddly. Got to do the discs next, oh joy.

Removing the front lower radius arm (i think it was) involved having to use an angle gringer because all the bolts were seized and generally inaccessible due to poor design.

Changed a wheel bearing at the same time.

There are some bolts which are 5 point torx security FFS, the MAF sensor I think. #### you LR I used chisel, security that.

The exhaust makes various knocking noises.

There is an issue with the clutch. It is leaking slightly from somewehere are the fluid needs topping up once a month. The clutch cylinder is INSIDE the gearbox, so I can't check it without seperating it from the engine.

Tyre centres HATE these things because the tracking is so difficult to adjust. You have to book them in for at least an hours labour. The look of relief on the guys face when it came up as straight during checking was almost comical.

Not as much torque as the older diesel, but better power on the top end.

The well in the boot always goes wet/damp.

The heater fan is tempremental.


******Erm... For now, that is all*****


On the plus side it doesn't have an electric handbrake.

I know some of it is wear and tear, but seriously.... I'm selling it to my Dad for a grand as something he can run into the ground. I don't think I'd buy anything newer than a disco 2, I certainly won't touch a freelander again. It's not so bad if they go wrong, and are easy to fix, but the freelander is very fiddly, and to be frank not worth the effort. For the home mechanic it's a bull**** car. Well done Land Rover

I dont really know what is going on with my freelander. It wont excellerate above 30 MPH feels like it is stuck in 4wd. RMPs climb. There is a knocking under the car more towards the front drivers side. all Cvs look great just replaced the CV Axle on front passenger. Just worried that it might be drive shaft or VCUs. Got a DTC reader and that was a waste of money cause I cannot find the meaning of any of these codes anywhere.

Here is a list of things that needed doing when i got my 3 door td4

New rear diff
New rear driveshafts
New rear hubs
The tailgate needed rewiring
All the fuel injectors needed to be rebuilt (cost over half as much as i paid for the car)

then there were things like new tyres, new radio, new side step to replace the bent one, bull bar, ronbox, egr blank, stainless steel rear box, drilled and slotted brake discs, and EBC greenstuff pads

openfold said:

Here is a list of things that needed doing when i got my 3 door td4

New rear diff
New rear driveshafts
New rear hubs
The tailgate needed rewiring
All the fuel injectors needed to be rebuilt (cost over half as much as i paid for the car)

then there were things like new tyres, new radio, new side step to replace the bent one, bull bar, ronbox, egr blank, stainless steel rear box, drilled and slotted brake discs, and EBC greenstuff pads

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UPDATE New VCU, the smaller metal ring on the rear part of mine decided to come off and start spinning around on the propshaft. Solution, duct tape and limp it home until a replacement came in.

Clogged injector (Number3!!!) - fixed
Rear near window regulator broken - fixed
Front off window reglator broken - fixed
Replacement near front glass - protective film wore off - fixed
Front diff mounting knackered - fixed
Brake joint seized - fixed
Sunroof mechanism teeth worn down - not fixed, will use one of multiple new windows for fresh air!!!
Rear window glass does not drop enough when closing boot - suspected regulator fault - not fixed...
No radio signal - still under investigation
Stereo controls on steering wheel disabled due to no harness available (HELP)

to be continued no doubt.....

2001 TD4

My first Landy and only had it a month. So far the fuel pump in the tank has died. Have got some serious creaking now coming from the front drivers side corner. No idea what's causing that yet. Did briefly get 2 flickering amber lights (TC and Landy going down hill picture) the other day whilst braking gently and clutch in to go down a gear. Came on each time i put the clutch in as i got to work. Not happened again though so nothing to worry about.

openfold said:

UPDATE New VCU, the smaller metal ring on the rear part of mine decided to come off and start spinning around on the propshaft. Solution, duct tape and limp it home until a replacement came in.

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LOL, Had the same problem a few years ago and held it on with cable ties then squirted loads of silicon sealant in to hold it. worked a treat for a few months before selling it.

Edit: Did you replace the whole VCU because of this or just the damper? Or did the VCU need replaced anyway?

2003 TD4 Freelander, had it for four years now and nearly on 140,000 miles

-Main diesel pump was leaking when I first got it. Replaced all of the rubber o-rings and seals in it
- Crankshaft pulley rubber dampener worn and sounded like a helicopter
- Sun Roof seized shut and leaks
- intercooler pipe split (the one very hard to get off above radiator)
- Nearside passenger window regulator burnt out
- Boot cubby likes to be a mini swimming pool

Now got a groaning hum noise between 60-70mph coming from back. Checked wheel bearings ok. Prop shaft at diff has no play but prop bearings have movement so I guess it's that.

I just bought a TD4 freelander from Kent, and while driving back to Whitehaven, my exhaust fell off on the motorway, it judders when setting off at a junction, and my handbreak doesn't seem to hold and the break pedal hasn't got any resistance. The seller said he had replaced and fixed everything to this car, but that's just going by his words. Moe (the freelander) seems to disagree.

Can now add a split intercooler hose to my earlier post.

I'd like to add my suspension sub frame is no longer completely supported, just had a new exhaust fitted and the mechanic told me the suspension is to a point where it'll collapse, so basically I had driven over 300 mile in a death trap! It was only meant for a cheap run around which is now costing me a small fortune.

landygirl87 said:

I'd like to add my suspension sub frame is no longer completely supported, just had a new exhaust fitted and the mechanic told me the suspension is to a point where it'll collapse, so basically I had driven over 300 mile in a death trap! It was only meant for a cheap run around which is now costing me a small fortune.

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Never combine Land Rover and Cheap in the same thought....

davidsmith1307 said:

Never combine Land Rover and Cheap in the same thought....

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Yeah, your telling me, just found out my freelander rear break shoes weren't fitted properly and that possibly the hub needs replacing. I wish someone had screamed to me 'DON'T DO IT! DON'T BUY THAT RUBBISH FREELANDER!' I wish I could have kept my diesel range rover, at least when something goes wrong with that, I can get it fixed, no problem! Not good when I'm driving down the road and people turn to look at you, not because of the car, but the god awful grinding noise coming from the wheel! How embarrassing!

2005 TD4 Commercial

2nd gear issue
Had it since June bought it with a gearbox problem, won't stay in 2nd gear at all, goes in whilst moving or at idle, but as soon as you drive it jumps out. Pretty much resigned myself to having to replace box or get this fixed, will replace clutch at same time whatever the case, doesnt really appear to be much dfference with a repair or replacement on cost though the repair is just a quote as they do not now as yet what the problem is... guessing I am going to get another box and replace, then I may open the existing box to have a look, I have never done a gearbox and always been told that its a dark art, so will be able to have a play as its only worth scrap anyway

Negative battery terminal
Since owning it, only had one slight problem in that the negative battery terminal is loose and pops off occasionaly easy to fix, though I havent had time to look at ths properly the negative vehicle side connector appears to be tighted to its maximum there is no slight gap so to speak, so I suspect wrong battery fitted, to fix either a 'wedge' or new battery at a guess.

I'd like to add to my problem, wheel hub is shoot, viscous control unit completely seized, brake shoes are almost gone, pins holding a break shoe is missing, a bolt in sub frame missing, the only good thing about my freelander is that the air condition still works, that is the ONLY good thing about it!

2003 td4 sport

Slave cylinder leaked so gearbox had to be removed £500
Water entering boot
Refused to start still unknown reason as I had enough of it.
Glow plug broken in engine
N/s window cable snapped

Now my trash bag of a freelander o/s/r wheel hub has now failed, tc light, abs light and another warning light stays on constantly, hard to set off without stalling, so I have to rev it to between 3-4k rpm before lifting clutch up completely, when setting off at junctions, it pulls to one side. Now in need of a car to get me to work. This freelander is not fit for me as I will probably cause an accident or something out of anger of the pile of dog crap of a freelander. LET THIS BE A WARNING TO ANYONE THINKING ABOUT PURCHASING A FREELANDER 1!