Freelander 1 Freelander EV

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Nodge68 said:
You've now got twice the torque of the K1.8, and probably a bit more weight on the front tyres.
I think you'll be spinning the wheels a lot in normal driving, so AWd would definitely help.
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Having left half the front right tyre on the tarmac without really trying I will defo be hooking up the 4WD, the car would be undrivable without it.
This was always going to happen as I wouldn't want to have a Freelander 2Wd anyway.
I think I may have to be careful with my right foot though as the extra torque could easily break something. o_O
 
Alibro said:
Having left half the front right tyre on the tarmac without really trying I will defo be hooking up the 4WD, the car would be undrivable without it.
This was always going to happen as I wouldn't want to have a Freelander 2Wd anyway.
I think I may have to be careful with my right foot though as the extra torque could easily break something. o_O
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The mechanicals should take it, as long as you are careful.
The standard TD4 makes 260nm of torque, compared to the leaf Gen 1's 280nm, so you should be fine. From memory the Getrag box is rated at 300nm, so you've got some spare torque capacity for some fun. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
The mechanicals should take it, as long as you are careful.
The standard TD4 makes 260nm of torque, compared to the leaf Gen 1's 280nm, so you should be fine. From memory the Getrag box is rated at 300nm, so you've got some spare torque capacity for some fun. ;)
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Thanks mate.
Don't suppose you know the rating of our coupler? :p
On a positive note I haven't noticed any backlash whatsoever on it so our design seems to be working. ;)
 
pwood999 said:
Excellent progress. Shame we can't hear it. Reverse lights not working !!
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Thanks mate. Yeah I was a tad peeved when I realised I had somehow disabled sound. the squealing of tyres and smell of tyre smoke was fun. :p
I can't remember if it was out of gear or not at this stage but getting the reversing light working should be fairly simple if it isn't.
I still need to sort the power steering and brake vac boost but have all the kit to do that so hopefully will get them working soon.
 
Nodge68 said:
The splines on the motor will strip before the coupler fails Ali.
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LOL, I have to admit I suspect the Fiat 126 clutch splines may be the weak link if there is one but hopefully it will be OK. I mostly drive like an auld Granda these days anyway. :p
The motor splines have been proven to be strong.
 
Alibro said:
LOL, I have to admit I suspect the Fiat 126 clutch splines may be the weak link if there is one but hopefully it will be OK.
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You're probably right there Ali. I would have liked to find the exact spline to salvage, or had the equipment to make it exactly.
It's not difficult to make a spline, but does require a shaper and an indexer, neither of which I have.
But hopefully it'll be OK. The material used for clutch splines is very hard, so should last well and it's actually only taking around 280nm, which isn't much in the scheme of things.
 
Nodge68 said:
You're probably right there Ali. I would have liked to find the exact spline to salvage, or had the equipment to make it exactly.
It's not difficult to make a spline, but does require a shaper and an indexer, neither of which I have.
But hopefully it'll be OK. The material used for clutch splines is very hard, so should last well and it's actually only taking around 280nm, which isn't much in the scheme of things.
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I don't believe there is a clutch spline suitable, or at least nobody in the community has found one. The ones I used are as close as there are and most folk who have gone that way are only using one disk so have slop which we don't have.
This guy used Suzuki clutch disks which may have been more suitable as they are built for higher torque but I only found this after we built the coupler.


There is a guy who had them made but they are a couple of hundred dollars and would still need to mated to the clutch disk.
 
Picking up on low top speed, won't that decimate range? I mean, how will this work at high speed lift off throttle situations, like motorway driving? Will it simply coast sipping zero milliamps for propulsion, or will it go regenerative, or will it still use amps to try and "maintain" speed?
 
Jayridium said:
Picking up on low top speed, won't that decimate range? I mean, how will this work at high speed lift off throttle situations, like motorway driving? Will it simply coast sipping zero milliamps for propulsion, or will it go regenerative, or will it still use amps to try and "maintain" speed?
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I'm not saying it will be a slow car as it will have 80kW so should be something similar to a standard TD4 except with full torque from 0 rpm. I just suspect that with the aerodynamics of a Freelander top speed will not be 100mph or maybe even close but that's not important for me.

When I started out on this project I really hadn't a clue what I was letting myself in for and kind of pushed ahead without a clear idea of what the result would be.
So long as the car goes well and has a reasonable range of around 100 miles I will be happy.

To be honest I'm not certain about regen but for now it's not a priority as I'm concentrating on getting the thing working and if regens that will be a bonus.
 
kernowsvenski said:
The thought of getting near to 100mph in any FL1, regardless of the propulsion system makes me feel a bit queezy.
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Indeed. Actually my FL1 TD4 would have struggled to reach 100 MPH.
The FL2 on the other hand reaches that speed quite easily, and doesn't feel at all scary, but that's what 10 years of vehicle development does.
 
Alibro said:
I'm not saying it will be a slow car as it will have 80kW so should be something similar to a standard TD4 except with full torque from 0 rpm.
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The performance of your FL1 EV will be way better than it was with the TD4 engine powering it Ali.
And you can always play with gear selection to get the best efficiency for the speed you are going, which is something that factory EVs can't do. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
The performance of your FL1 EV will be way better than it was with the TD4 engine powering it Ali.
And you can always play with gear selection to get the best efficiency for the speed you are going, which is something that factory EVs can't do. ;)
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Yip, I'm really looking forward to trying it out on the road. ;)

In another note, I got the power steering going again. :)

IMG_20221201_214836428.jpg


IMG_20221201_214844215.jpg


It is only temporarily connected but is working a treat. :)
Next job is to get the brake boost working.
 
Nodge68 said:
Excellent stuff. I'm glad the altermotor works well driving the PS pump, and lovely neat installation too.
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Thanks mate. It's so much quieter than the GM electric power steering pump too. :)
Nodge68 said:
That should be easy, it's just a 12V vacuum pump and vacuum control switch, easy for you to knock up Ali. ;)
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I bought a little module off Johannas Huebner a few months ago. It works with a VAG 12V vac pump and sensor so when the vac falls to a certain level it turns the pump on again. I tested it ages ago and it seems to work OK but I haven't tried it for real yet so that will be interesting. ;)
 
Alibro said:
It's so much quieter than the GM electric power steering pump too
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That's a bonus then Ali.
Alibro said:
I bought a little module off Johannas Huebner a few months ago. It works with a VAG 12V vac pump and sensor so when the vac falls to a certain level it turns the pump on again. I tested it ages ago and it seems to work OK but I haven't tried it for real yet so that will be interesting.
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I look forward to seeing the video Ali.
 
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