Freelander 1 Freelander EV

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Nodge68 said:
That looks strong enough Ali. In reality, you could have got away with less welding, but at least you know it won't break.

It's good the splines are free of excess slop, but hopefully there's enough space to allow a small amount of movement to compensate for dimensional changes in the aluminium castings. ;)

I think its sensible to put some copper grease on the splines, when fitting the assemblies together. This will allow a small amount of movement which is required, and minimise wear of the material.

I'm looking forward to seeing the motor and gearbox in the car! ;)
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Like I said earlier my welder is probably a bit under powered for metal this heavy so I'm over compensating a bit.
I'm fairly sure it will loosen up a bit when the splines wear in. I never thought of the aluminium castings moving but hopefully if they do it will be minimal.
I'll do as you say with the copper grease but also have to figure out how loose the coupler is laterally and do something to keep it tight I don't want it sliding back and forth wearing out the sleeve on the gearbox.
 
Alibro said:
I never thought of the aluminium castings moving but hopefully if they do it will be minimal.
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It won't be much, maybe 0.5mm, but it's still a factor, albeit a small one. ;)
Alibro said:
I'll do as you say with the copper grease but also have to figure out how loose the coupler is laterally and do something to keep it tight I don't want it sliding back and forth wearing out the sleeve on the gearbox.
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The coupler can move about, but you can use clamps of suitable size to keep it from slipping.
Do you know how much movement you have in each direction? Or if either spline will disengage, if it moves too far in one direction, or the other?
But if you're concerned, then clamps are the way forward.

There are some really good ones available, which I've used for FL1 ARB location.
I've got a set somewhere, but I'll see if I can find them on Ebay.
 
I need to measure everything to confirm how much movement there is but will probably put spacers over the gearbox splines until the motor won't sit flush to be 100% sure. Then I might just put a blob of weld on the gearbox spline to keep the coupler in position.
 
Alibro said:
I need to measure everything to confirm how much movement there is but will probably put spacers over the gearbox splines until the motor won't sit flush to be 100% sure. Then I might just put a blob of weld on the gearbox spline to keep the coupler in position.
Click to expand...

I'd use a clamp over the splines, as you'll want something that will support the whole end of the coupler.
You want a bit of axial movement on the splines, just a couple of mm, which will avoid any thrust on the bearings.

I'll send you one, if I can fine them. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
I'd use a clamp over the splines, as you'll want something that will support the whole end of the coupler.
You want a bit of axial movement on the splines, just a couple of mm, which will avoid any thrust on the bearings.

I'll send you one, if I can fine them. ;)
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Do you think there will be much need to support the whole coupler? I thought I would just need something to keep it off the sleeve that covers the base of the gearbox splines so I figured a blob of weld would do the trick. There won't be any forces on it and not much room for a clamp. If you have a link to the clamps your talking about I can order one almost as cheaply as you can send it.

IMG_20201020_161922705.jpg
 
Alibro said:
Do you think there will be much need to support the whole coupler? I thought I would just need something to keep it off the sleeve that covers the base of the gearbox splines so I figured a blob of weld would do the trick. There won't be any forces on it and not much room for a clamp. If you have a link to the clamps your talking about I can order one almost as cheaply as you can send it.

View attachment 230017
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Can you actully push the coupler in contact with the sleeve on the box? The motor splines are smaller, so might be in the correct place to prevent it hitting the sleeve?
 
Nodge68 said:
Can you actully push the coupler in contact with the sleeve on the box? The motor splines are smaller, so might be in the correct place to prevent it hitting the sleeve?
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Good point Nodge, I'll need to check. I took the adapter plate off on Sunday to drill and tap for the motor but didn't check where the coupler was sitting. With the plate on the box I wouldn't have been able to see.
 
Alibro said:
Good point Nodge, I'll need to check. I took the adapter plate off on Sunday to drill and tap for the motor but didn't check where the coupler was sitting. With the plate on the box I wouldn't have been able to see.
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It might well have a built-in stop then Ali. However you might need to see if the coupler can slide towards the motor, and so become detached from the gearbox in use. You might need a clamp on the motor instead, to prevent this. It's acceptable for the coupler to "float" a couple of mm on the splines, but you don’t want them parting company. ;)
 
OK so the coupler is held above the sleeve by approx 3.5mm by the inner motor spline. At first I thought it would be OK but with the motor in place I was able to poke a long chisel in through a hole in the gearbox and move the coupler up by about 7.5mm. This is too much as it would leave only a couple of mm of the inner spline on the motor so I need to shift it up to keep it tighter. This means I have approx 10.5mm between the sleeve and the coupler with 0.5mm spare.
Would the clamp you are talking about fit in a 10mm space?
 
Alibro said:
OK so the coupler is held above the sleeve by approx 3.5mm by the inner motor spline. At first I thought it would be OK but with the motor in place I was able to poke a long chisel in through a hole in the gearbox and move the coupler up by about 7.5mm. This is too much as it would leave only a couple of mm of the inner spline on the motor so I need to shift it up to keep it tighter. This means I have approx 10.5mm between the sleeve and the coupler with 0.5mm spare.
Would the clamp you are talking about fit in a 10mm space?
Click to expand...

Ok, that makes sense.

So you need to keep the coupler held equally between the shafts, giving as much insertion in each spline as possible.

The clamps are about 12mm thick, but I could easily face them down to 10.5mm.
I suspect you'll need one on the gearbox and another on the motor, so the coupler is held between them, with just a mm or two of float.
 
Nodge68 said:
Ok, that makes sense.

So you need to keep the coupler held equally between the shafts, giving as much insertion in each spline as possible.

The clamps are about 12mm thick, but I could easily face them down to 10.5mm.
I suspect you'll need one on the gearbox and another on the motor, so the coupler is held between them, with just a mm or two of float.
Click to expand...
I was going to use just one 10.5mm clamp on the gearbox. The most likely point of failure here would be the Fiat splines so to give them the best chance of survival I want the coupler as close to the motor as possible.
 
Alibro said:
I was going to use just one 10.5mm clamp on the gearbox. The most likely point of failure here would be the Fiat splines so to give them the best chance of survival I want the coupler as close to the motor as possible.
Click to expand...

That's ok, as long as the coupler can't disconnect completely from the gearbox, should the coupler move all the way to the motor. The gearbox spline only needs to insert the same depth as the spline hub. There's no gain in the spline shaft coming out the other side of the spline hub. Hopefully the coupler is long enough to fully engage with the motor, whilst the box side is also fully engage.
 
Nodge68 said:
That's ok, as long as the coupler can't disconnect completely from the gearbox, should the coupler move all the way to the motor. The gearbox spline only needs to insert the same depth as the spline hub. There's no gain in the spline shaft coming out the other side of the spline hub. Hopefully the coupler is long enough to fully engage with the motor, whilst the box side is also fully engage.
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There is around 7mm or 8mm free space inside the coupler between the splines so I'm happy the gearbox spline will be fully engaged.
Did you ever find those clamps on ebay?
 
Alibro said:
There is around 7mm or 8mm free space inside the coupler between the splines so I'm happy the gearbox spline will be fully engaged.
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That sounds fine.
Alibro said:
Did you ever find those clamps on ebay?
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No. I thought I had them in my watch list, but I can't find them now. @andyfreelandy found them originally, so he might be able to point you in the right direction.

Otherwise I know I have a couple here, although I can't remember what size shaft they are for.
 
Thanks for finding them guys. The 22mm ones are 15mm wide so I would need to reduce the size of the collar to make room for it but I don't think that would cause any issues. I'd much prefer to use one of these than try to stick a random blob of weld on the splines and risk getting it wrong and ruining them.
I take it these things are designed to sit on a spinning shaft?
 
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