Freelander 1 Freelander EV

Alibro said:

Yes mate, that's a good call, I rarely use the channel change buttons for the radio so could try them. The only issue that springs to mind is finding another input on the VCU to use but I'm sure there would be some way to manage it.
In the meantime I've spent more time playing with the settings and I'm getting pretty close to something acceptable so it's going down in the priority list as I still need to sort the charging.

Click to expand...

There are spare lines in the clock spring even with the audio controls, as there's the unused (in most cases) cruise control lines.
There are cheapish universal kits available on AliExpress:
￡73.41 | Steering Wheel Shift Paddles For Moza Thrustmaster Simulation Racing Game PC Rally Steering Wheel Center Control Box

Just for reference. Our Ioniq 5 gives exactly 100kW on full regen, so yours is very impressive.

Nodge68 said:

There are spare lines in the clock spring even with the audio controls, as there's the unused (in most cases) cruise control lines.
There are cheapish universal kits available on AliExpress:
￡73.41 | Steering Wheel Shift Paddles For Moza Thrustmaster Simulation Racing Game PC Rally Steering Wheel Center Control Box

Steering Wheel Shift Paddles For Moza Thrustmaster Simulation Racing Game PC Rally Steering Wheel Center Control Box - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

a.aliexpress.com

Just for reference. Our Ioniq 5 gives exactly 100kW on full regen, so yours is very impressive.

Click to expand...

Nice find mate, they look like fun. My MG gives around 100kW on full regen and maybe even more with the brake but I'm trying to be sensible and start out with a bit less with this setup.

However as I have the attention span of a nat, I've flip flopped back to the charging issues and have built a circuit to help with this.
This very complicated circuit uses a LM393 comparator and 5 resistors to detect when the J1772 plug is pushed into the socket, it provides a ground to an 8 way replay module to turn on the bits I need for charging. https://amzn.to/40LDJKC
I'm not using it to power the module, just to trigger it so the power demand is very low and no need for a diode.


The original design has a 3.3k resistor on the 12V side of a voltage divider which worked fine on my desk but when I tested it in the car it triggered immediatley even without the cable plugged in so after a bit of messing about with a POT I figured out the 3.3k resistor needed replacing with a 255R resistor. As I didn't have one I used a 240R and 13R resistor in series. When I measured them with a meter they added up to just over 254 so I guess they are a tiny bit over the advertised resistance. The 2.7K resistor R3 is already in the J1772 socket so I didn't need to add it.

This is the finished article on a piece of strip board and it seems to work well. When I shove in the plug the relays trigger and when I push the release leaver on the J1772 plug to allow it to be pulled out the relays open.

Alibro said:

Nice find mate, they look like fun. My MG gives around 100kW on full regen and maybe even more with the brake but I'm trying to be sensible and start out with a bit less with this setup.

However as I have the attention span of a nat, I've flip flopped back to the charging issues and have built a circuit to help with this.
This very complicated circuit uses a LM393 comparator and 5 resistors to detect when the J1772 plug is pushed into the socket, it provides a ground to an 8 way replay module to turn on the bits I need for charging. https://amzn.to/40LDJKC
I'm not using it to power the module, just to trigger it so the power demand is very low and no need for a diode.

View attachment 334437
The original design has a 3.3k resistor on the 12V side of a voltage divider which worked fine on my desk but when I tested it in the car it triggered immediatley even without the cable plugged in so after a bit of messing about with a POT I figured out the 3.3k resistor needed replacing with a 255R resistor. As I didn't have one I used a 240R and 13R resistor in series. When I measured them with a meter they added up to just over 254 so I guess they are not perfect resistors. The 2.7K resistor R3 is already in the J1772 socket so I didn't need to add it.

This is the finished article on a piece of strip board and it seems to work well. When I shove in the plug the relays trigger and when I push the release leaver on the J1772 plug to allow it to be pulled out the relays open.

View attachment 334436

Click to expand...

I was thinking more that the paddles would be pretty easy thing to copy for your use.

Nice simple analogue circuit there Ali. The LM393 is a nice robust IC too, just what is needed in the hostile environment of a car.

Nodge68 said:

I was thinking more that the paddles would be pretty easy thing to copy for your use.

Nice simple analogue circuit there Ali. The LM393 is a nice robust IC too, just what is needed in the hostile environment of a car.

Click to expand...

Yes mate, paddles might be a project when I run out of other things to do. With my levels of procrastination ever increasing I'm not sure when that will happen.