Freelander 1 Freelander EV

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Alibro said:
I managed to sort the tow bar electrics today with a new socket that came complete with bracket and cable fitted, then painted the rusty hitch and bumper protector.

View attachment 306849

I was able to connect into the original tow bar wiring colour for colour so it was really easy to connect and tested perfectly with even the buzzer for indicators working. Very very loudly but working. After wrapping half a roll of insulating tape around it I jammed the buzzer into a corner and put the boot liner back on.
Click to expand...
Put a resistor infront of it to create a voltage drop, and thus an amplitude reduction :cool:
 
I mentioned a while ago I was having problems with the car cutting out as I drove. I have to admit it was getting me down as I didn't really know where to look but as sometimes happens fate lent me a hand.
The last couple of times I tried to charge the HV battery it stopped charging after around 30 minutes and I had to restart the charge. This was particularly annoying as I still don't have a way to stop the charging automatically when the battery is full so I need to set a timer to remind me to check it, so had to keep extending the timer.
On Sunday after a charging session I took the car out for a drive and it cut out three times in 2 miles. 😟
I kinda figured the two problems may be connected so I posted about the charging issue in Openinverter.org and after looking at the CAN logs I posted a couple of guys came back with some very helpful solutions.
Long story short after a couple of days chasing it I discovered the timer module I use as a fail safe to control the positive contactor had too many other devices attached to the same power lead and it was glitching. I was able to make the fault occur just by flashing the head lights, not every time but almost and I think it also happened when the brake boost pump kicks in which it does periodically.
Anyway I have driven the car several times since sorting this issue and charged it and it hasn't cut out yet so I'm daring to hope I may have sorted both faults. I plan to make a change so that the timer module triggers a latching relay and take the power for the relay directly from the ignition switch. This way I'll have a decent quality relay controlling the positive contactor instead of a $2 timer module. ;)

Being used for it's intended purpose.

IMG_20240118_164642617.jpg
IMG_20240117_145414669_HDR (1).jpg



Now I need to look at the drivers window regulator that is making some horrible noises and the rear NS that isn't dropping at all. :rolleyes:
 
The drivers side window regulator died today so I managed to swap it with the one from the test mule. All nice and smooth again. 😉

Last night I came across this and ordered it.
The cheapest I could find in the UK was £285 so I figured this was worth a punt.
I believe it is fairly simple to install and control so wish me luck.
I need to first remove the Nissan heater that I couldn't get working but I'll make sure to test this before installing it.
 
Alibro said:
The drivers side window regulator died today so I managed to swap it with the one from the test mule. All nice and smooth again. 😉

Last night I came across this and ordered it.
The cheapest I could find in the UK was £285 so I figured this was worth a punt.
I believe it is fairly simple to install and control so wish me luck.
I need to first remove the Nissan heater that I couldn't get working but I'll make sure to test this before installing it.
Click to expand...
How does that one work compared to the Nissan one Ali?
 
Nodge68 said:
How does that one work compared to the Nissan one Ali?
Click to expand...
From what I've read the Nissan one uses LIN but the Mitsubishi uses CAN.
When I get the Nissan one out I'll have another look at it to see if I can figure out why it didn't work but to do so I need to remove the front subframe and probably the Inverter and charger so I want to make certain I have a working solution to put back in before starting all that work.
TBH I should have tested the Nissan one before installing it, I spent hours going over the circuit I built to get the Nissan heater working but eventually put an oscilloscope on the LIN wire coming from the heater and it had no signal, only 12V which was fooling my circuit into thinking it was working.

This is where I found the circuit

To be fair the guy was helpful but I realised I was wasting my time when I saw the output of the heater. I took a chance and it didn't pay off but this time I will test the Mitsubishi heater before touching the car. ;)

Mitsubishi Outlander Water Heater - openinverter.org wiki

openinverter.org openinverter.org
 
Alibro said:
From what I've read the Nissan one uses LIN but the Mitsubishi uses CAN.
When I get the Nissan one out I'll have another look at it to see if I can figure out why it didn't work but to do so I need to remove the front subframe and probably the Inverter and charger so I want to make certain I have a working solution to put back in before starting all that work.
TBH I should have tested the Nissan one before installing it, I spent hours going over the circuit I built to get the Nissan heater working but eventually put an oscilloscope on the LIN wire coming from the heater and it had no signal, only 12V which was fooling my circuit into thinking it was working.

This is where I found the circuit

To be fair the guy was helpful but I realised I was wasting my time when I saw the output of the heater. I took a chance and it didn't pay off but this time I will test the Mitsubishi heater before touching the car. ;)

Mitsubishi Outlander Water Heater - openinverter.org wiki

openinverter.org openinverter.org
Click to expand...
I'd have thought the heating elements could have been switched on with a suitable contractor, the contractor itself being switched on by a low voltage source like the 12V battery.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Someone else who's put a Leaf motor in a Land Rover...

Trade Me

www.trademe.co.nz www.trademe.co.nz

They want £7.5k as it stands.
Click to expand...
Is that cheap for a Trattor? Not sure but the Leaf stuff might be worth up to £4k if reasonable mileage.
Nodge68 said:
I'd have thought the heating elements could have been switched on with a suitable contractor, the contractor itself being switched on by a low voltage source like the 12V battery.
Click to expand...
Contactors don't mind carrying lots of dc current but aren't great at switching it as the contacts weld together, although worst case it is around 11A (4000W / 350V) so maybe it would be OK.
I guess it might be possible to get it working but not easy to turn the heat up and down. I'm hoping to be able to do that with a POT.
In any case I would need to strip the car down to remove the Nissan heater and I'm not prepared to do that without a tested heater available.
 
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Our daughter bought a house last month but the fence was a lot shaky and the storm was having fun with it.

Freelander to the rescue. 😋
IMG_20240121_171931493.jpg


I had some spare planks from a previous job so managed to fit them (mostly) into the Freelander through the rear window and out the front passenger side. Her house is only a mile from ours so I took it easy and no harm done.
The fence was shored up temporarily and is fine for now but I need to figure out how to secure it properly.
 
Look what just arrived in the post. :D

IMG_20240122_172402316.jpg

IMG_20240122_172423538.jpg


The important bit is
"The inspection report concluded that no radical changes had been made to the vehicle to accommodate the new electric system and that no further investigations are required."

This is the news I've been hoping for since starting out on this project so a wee dram to celebrate might be in order later.
It would be rude not to. 😋
 
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