Freelander clonking noise

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ldg2009

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Took my car for a new exhaust today, on way down it was making a horrible noise around 35mph but when the car came off the ramp it started clonking going backwards and forwards at low speed, they checked it over and said the drive shaft (front left side) has gone, you could hear it clonking if you slightly moved it. Said it may have dropped will hanging on the ramp making it fail more. Going to cost approx £290 to be fixed. Expensive day along with the new back box :(
 
What sort of clonk? Are you sure the IRD hasn't packed up? IRD failure is a thousand times more likely than a drive shaft. Alternatively it could be the splined link in the gearbox which is also common.
Who diagnosed the drive shaft failure?
A failed drive shaft will click on lock (outer CV) or cause vibration on acceleration (inboard joint).
You can buy a complete drive shaft on a well known auction site for under £40!!
 
Nodge68 said:
What sort of clonk? Are you sure the IRD hasn't packed up? IRD failure is a thousand times more likely than a drive shaft. Alternatively it could be the splined link in the gearbox which is also common.
Who diagnosed the drive shaft failure?
A failed drive shaft will click on lock (outer CV) or cause vibration on acceleration (inboard joint).
You can buy a complete drive shaft on a well known auction site for under £40!!
Click to expand...

It went on the ramp andhe spun the wheels, on the front left you could hear the clunking noise slightly, he then said hold the bar ( shaft) and I could feel and hear the noise slightly just moving the bar witn my hand.

Where is the ird and what is it?
 
ldg2009 said:
It went on the ramp andhe spun the wheels, on the front left you could hear the clunking noise slightly, he then said hold the bar ( shaft) and I could feel and hear the noise slightly just moving the bar witn my hand.

Where is the ird and what is it?
Click to expand...

A drive shaft that has been used for any length of time will have some slack in the joint.
The IRD is the Freelanders equivalent of a transfer box. It's bolted to the RH side of the gearbox. The RH drive shaft comes out of the IRD.
They fail because the VCU stiffens up over time, overloading the unit. It's extremely common failure point!!
 
Nodge68 said:
A drive shaft that has been used for any length of time will have some slack in the joint.
The IRD is the Freelanders equivalent of a transfer box. It's bolted to the RH side of the gearbox. The RH drive shaft comes out of the IRD.
They fail because the VCU stiffens up over time, overloading the unit. It's extremely common failure point!!
Click to expand...

hopefully there right if not ill argue as they diagnosed it as that
 
Nodge68 said:
A drive shaft that has been used for any length of time will have some slack in the joint.
The IRD is the Freelanders equivalent of a transfer box. It's bolted to the RH side of the gearbox. The RH drive shaft comes out of the IRD.
They fail because the VCU stiffens up over time, overloading the unit. It's extremely common failure point!!
Click to expand...

This is the left side so would that mean it is more than likely not the ird if it doesnt go directly into the ird that side?
 
ldg2009 said:
This is the left side so would that mean it is more than likely not the ird if it doesnt go directly into the ird that side?
Click to expand...

The IRD drives all the wheels. The 2 fronts via the IRD's internal differential. The rear wheels are driven by a take off to the rear.
It's a clever system that takes drive from the gearbox through a hollow splined shaft into the IRD, the IRD'd differential then feeds the drive to the LH front wheel back through the gearbox on a shaft inside the hollow shaft output shaft. This shaft in a shaft arrangement was an effective way to make a 2WD design work all for wheels.
It's not without its flaws however. There is a problem with spline failure. Amongst other foibles!!
What engine/ gearbox do you have?
 
Nodge68 said:
The IRD drives all the wheels. The 2 fronts via the IRD's internal differential. The rear wheels are driven by a take off to the rear.
It's a clever system that takes drive from the gearbox through a hollow splined shaft into the IRD, the IRD'd differential then feeds the drive to the LH front wheel back through the gearbox on a shaft inside the hollow shaft output shaft. This shaft in a shaft arrangement was an effective way to make a 2WD design work all for wheels.
It's not without its flaws however. There is a problem with spline failure. Amongst other foibles!!
What engine/ gearbox do you have?
Click to expand...

2l diesal automatic
 
ldg2009 said:
Its got me worried now incase it is the ird box just looked at the price
Click to expand...

IRD is expensive. The VCU causes it to fail. VCU life is pretty much controlled by tyre maintenance. Wrong type of tyres in the wrong location on the car will destroy the IRD very quickly.
 
The original issues were a knocking at the back which I found this to be the exhaust back box bracket had broken so the box was knocking into thw bracket, then everything was fine until about 35mph which it started doing a strange noise it wasnt a rattle or a grinding noise but eased off if I let up on the accelrator orwent over 40mph. Then as said when the exhaust was repaired I put it in reverse and it went clunk clunk about 2mph and did the same going forward
 
ldg2009 said:
Can you still drive if the ird is packing up or will it damage other things?
Click to expand...

It does sound like an IRD failing to me. But without actually looking at the vehicle, it's impossible to say for sure.
Weather you can still drive it depends on what part of the IRD has failed. Often it's the pinion drive to the rear. Simply removing the propshafts can prolong the remaining life in the IRD.
If the IRD has failed, the only real fix is replace the VCU and ether have the IRD rebuilt or replace it. Then make sure that all the tyres are the same make, type and size.
 
Nodge68 said:
It does sound like an IRD failing to me. But without actually looking at the vehicle, it's impossible to say for sure.
Weather you can still drive it depends on what part of the IRD has failed. Often it's the pinion drive to the rear. Simply removing the propshafts can prolong the remaining life in the IRD.
If the IRD has failed, the only real fix is replace the VCU and ether have the IRD rebuilt or replace it. Then make sure that all the tyres are the same make, type and size.
Click to expand...


Think I may get another opinion the car is in mr clutch ATM where I got the exhaust done so may try a 4x4 specialist
 
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