Freelander Belt Change

hi i am in the middle of repacing water pump on my k series ,have cam locking tool and had help with brake pedal and in top gear,but cant get bolt undone on crank pulley any suggestions folks ?

burn it, failing that I have too much to do and no time and am jct 22 m5.
longer bar

tried longer bar and also hammer ,engine just turns over

well I have a shogun dead, a pajero in bits, a vr6 multivan with numerous joys and several others and some other wiring jobs.
tried a ratchet and bar? or is it slipping clutch

Get a powered impact driver on the case, that'll shift it.

cridders said:

hi i am in the middle of repacing water pump on my k series ,have cam locking tool and had help with brake pedal and in top gear,but cant get bolt undone on crank pulley any suggestions folks ?

Click to expand...

Hi Cridders,

Personally, I have always found that the old trick of sticking it in top and getting someone to stand on the brakes is not very effective.

Often, there's a lot of slack in the drivetrain - which undoubtedly absorbs some of the torque that you are applying, or the clutch slips.

The Freelander does have an inspection cover on the right hand side of the engine, secured by two large(ish) nuts and bolts (15 / 17mm, I tink) and one smaller (10mm - ish) at the top.

Given that the flywheel locking tool I have got requires the gearbox to be removed, I'm planning on removing said cover and getting a mate to jam a small crowbar or large screwdriver into the flywheel teeth - locking it against the bellhousing.

As others have said, I think a very long breaker bar - or even an impact wrench - may be the order of the day. I have a Clarke 240v electric impact wrench, which I will press into service, should my pulley bolt putr up a fight. This thing is (allegedly) good for about 425 nm - that should see it off!!!

Good luck with getting the bolt out.

Regards,

Ian.

thanks will try impact drver,ebay here i come

Well, finally got to the bottom of the non-fitting cam locking tool.

My new Laser one turned up earlier this week and this evening, I finally got around to whipping the covers off and trying it for size.

Got to say that, to the naked eye, both tools look almost identical. The only difference that I could see was with both laying flat on their side, the Draper is just under 1mm wider.

With the timing marks lined up, the Laser tool fits beutifully, whereas the Draper won't go near.

Guess my Draper version must be a 'Friday afternoon special'.

Given that I'm doing the water pump too, I invested in one of these.

Should overcome some of the problems associated with getting the air out - I understand that they used something similar at the factory to add coolant to the K series.

ooh havent seen one of those before

Well, it's done.

At least, the timing belt is; the water pump already fitted felt as tight as the new one. Given that it's currently keeping the car correctly cooled and that the antifreeze tests full strength, there seemed little point in disturbing it.

Just thought I'd share a couple of snippets of advice - based on my own experience.

Firstly, the Laser flywheel locking tool does indeed fit through the starter hole - see picture below.



One tip for fitting this, though. It fits, using the starter bolts and nuts. When fitting the starter, these have the bolt head on the outer side (away from the engine) and the nut on the inside. The top nut is a bar steward to get fingers on and there is great potential for dropping it - not a problem with the starter cover fitted. However, with the cover removed, I'll bet Sod's law dictates that it'll end up dropping into the bellhousing.

To overcome this, I fitted the tool with the top bolt reversed (head towards the engine - thread facing out). This way, it's much easier to get the nut on and if you drop the nut it will not end up in the depths of your engine / gearbox. Just to be belt and braces, I even wound a small bit of welding wire around the bolt - below the head - to catch it if I dropped it.

With the crank properly locked, the pulley bolt is much easier to undo. Notwithstanding this, a long breaker bar is still the order of the day. Wasn't sure if my 18 inch Clarke jobby was up to it, so I fabricated my own extension handle.

Basically, I took the handle section from an old (and cheap - and broken) telescopic wheel brace. Welded a section of cut-off steel tube to it.....thus.....



It now fits snugly over the handle of the breaker bar......



Giving me this.........



Nice! Dealt with the pulley bolt with no problem.

When putting everything back together, I was aware that you need a spring balance to set the alternator belt tension. Of course, I don't have one. However, whilst shopping in our local supermarket, I found this handy luggage weight guage (weight attached to test for accuracy)......



For a fiver, it made setting the correct belt tension very easy.

The enigne mounting bolts were a right pain to get fitted. Had to fiddle around for ages to get them to fit. But they did eventually.

I found that when setting the initial tension,. the long run of the belt remains quite slack. Turn the engine over a couple of times, using the pulley bolt and the tension evens out

Don't know if it's my personal fettish - but I love seeing new Cambelts fitted - with the writing still crisp and clear.



All things considered, it's not a bad job. Doing this by myself and at a leisurely pace, it took about 6 hours (with a break for lunch). Certainly a lot easier than some belt jobs I have done (Porsche 944 that took four days!!!)

Thanks for the advice offered.

Cheers,

Ian.

Good write up and a bloody good bit of advice concerning the flywheel tool and bolts!

Glad you managed to do it ok without any problems. The k series is a good little engine to work on i reckon.