Freelander auto gearbox jumping from high gear to 2nd when warm

TonyOZ · Dec 15, 2018

I wasn't happy with my multimeter readings so I checked again at the barrel connector to see if I could get a reading at any of the multimeter range setting. I started to get readings (other than zero and one) on the 20k Ohm setting.
A cold reading showed 1.99 which I guess is 39,800 Ohms. A warm reading showed 1.18 which I guess is 23,600 Ohms.

The gears shifted fine while warm as per usual.

Hippo · Dec 15, 2018

Meters with a low battery can give slightly off results. If yours is a manual range meter then to measure say 3k yer would need the 20k range and not the 2k range. K being x1000 so 20k is 20,000ohms.

It's rare temp sensors fail. It's normally shift solenoids... Because they're physically active we assume.

TonyOZ · Dec 17, 2018

As previous posts show in this thread all the solenoids have been replaced. To change the temp sensor, does the gearbox need to come out?

Hippo · Dec 17, 2018

The temp sensor is on the torque converter side of the gearbox according to rave. I can't see a way of getting to it without taking the auto oft the engine.

If you can't get a good reading on the barrel connectors then I would be checking the electrical connectors int side the solenoid cover first if it were mine, in the hope the problem is there.

Hippo · Jan 9, 2019

Any luck with solving the problem?

TonyOZ · Jan 13, 2019

Hippo said:
Any luck with solving the problem?

It's holiday season here, too much going on to mess with cars!
I haven't opened the solenoid cover again yet. I suspect that I have messed with the wiring for the temp sensor inside the solenoid housing when swapping them. At least I hope so. The current behaviour is very consistent. When the engine/gearbox coolant is cold, if I try driving, the gearbox won't change out of first until it goes into limp home mode. If I let it warm up it works fine every time. If I don't let it warm up and It goes into limp home (F4) mode, switching the ignition off and then on and it will work fine.

I have noticed one other symptom, probably unrelated: The gearbox does not kick down any more. Do any of the solenoids have anything to do with kick-down? If I'm going to open the case again to check the wiring, if any of the solenoids are still dodgy I would like to change them. Yes of course I will do a resistance test again.

Hippo · Jan 13, 2019

TonyOZ said:
It's holiday season here, too much going on to mess with cars!
I haven't opened the solenoid cover again yet. I suspect that I have messed with the wiring for the temp sensor inside the solenoid housing when swapping them. At least I hope so. The current behaviour is very consistent. When the engine/gearbox coolant is cold, if I try driving, the gearbox won't change out of first until it goes into limp home mode. If I let it warm up it works fine every time. If I don't let it warm up and It goes into limp home (F4) mode, switching the ignition off and then on and it will work fine.

I have noticed one other symptom, probably unrelated: The gearbox does not kick down any more. Do any of the solenoids have anything to do with kick-down? If I'm going to open the case again to check the wiring, if any of the solenoids are still dodgy I would like to change them. Yes of course I will do a resistance test again.

Kickdown is sensed when the eggscellerater pedal is pushed down sharply. The engine computer reacts to this by revving the engine higher and asking the auto's computer to drop a gear. It also leaves it in that gear longer before asking it to change up. Solenoids work as normal, operating when controlled.

Freelander auto gearbox jumping from high gear to 2nd when warm

TonyOZ

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Hippo

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TonyOZ

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Hippo

Lord Hippo

Hippo

Lord Hippo

TonyOZ

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Lord Hippo

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