Freelander 2004 TD4 Kalahari - Electrical Issues

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

oonegative

New Member
Posts
8
Location
Belfast
Hi, new member here having some electrical issues with a 2003 Freelander TD4 Kalahari. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Symptoms:
  • Driver side rear door window doesn't go up or down.
  • Near side front window goes down but not up.
  • Driver side rear door locks but does not unlock using central locking keyfob (manual pull handle is ok).
What I've checked:
  • Removed door card and visually inspected for breaks in the wiring. All looks ok.
  • I've purchased a 2nd hand D/S rear window mechanism (all in one including the motor). I removed the original and connected the new one (without fitting to the door) and nothing happens when I push the window switch up or down.
  • I've tested the 2 wires which go to the motor (red+ blue) and it appears there is no power.
  • I've checked fuses F27 (drivers rear window) and F33 (near side front window) with a multimeter and both appear ok.
I've also purchased a 2nd hand lock mechanism for the DS rear door but haven't gotten as far as attempting to fit that. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should check next? I've read in other threads that because 2 of the 4 windows are working correctly it is unlikely to be the relays which are at fault. Is this correct?

If I need to provide any more info for assistance let me know and I'll post what you need.

Thanks all!
 
Sounds like lots of separate issues not connected but certainly none of them are unusual
Does the rear window operate from the front switch but not the rear? Is the passenger window switch lock on or off? Have you tried the replacement mech on a known working connection to prove it is OK, i.e. the other side?
Have you checked the cables on the NS front? Could also be a dodgy motor but the cables fail frequently.
Rear door lock is probably a mech. Get a used one off ebay.
 
Cheers for the response Alibro.

Does the rear window operate from the front switch but not the rear?

No, it doesn't work from either of them.

Is the passenger window switch lock on or off?

The lock is off and the nearside rear window works ok, only driver side affected of the 2 rear windows.

Have you tried the replacement mech on a known working connection to prove it is OK, i.e. the other side?

I hadn't thought to try that. I will definitely try that tomorrow, weather permitting.

Have you checked the cables on the NS front? Could also be a dodgy motor but the cables fail frequently.

I haven't had a look at the NS front yet. I started with the rear and immediately realised I was in trouble!

Rear door lock is probably a mech. Get a used one off ebay

Sounds like a plan. Any tips for removing the old one. There are 3 torx screws holding it in place but with those removed I can't get the mechanism out. It's really tight working inside the door but feels like the button from the top of the door is holding it in place. I've had a feel inside and can "pop" that out but it seems there is something else preventing it from moving. can you recommend any good guides, preferably with pictures of what I'm trying to feel for in the door?
 
Cheers for the response Alibro.



No, it doesn't work from either of them.



The lock is off and the nearside rear window works ok, only driver side affected of the 2 rear windows.



I hadn't thought to try that. I will definitely try that tomorrow, weather permitting.



I haven't had a look at the NS front yet. I started with the rear and immediately realised I was in trouble!



Sounds like a plan. Any tips for removing the old one. There are 3 torx screws holding it in place but with those removed I can't get the mechanism out. It's really tight working inside the door but feels like the button from the top of the door is holding it in place. I've had a feel inside and can "pop" that out but it seems there is something else preventing it from moving. can you recommend any good guides, preferably with pictures of what I'm trying to feel for in the door?
Been a while since I did one but the button cable should pop out as you say and the handle cable is the only other thing holding it in place. It's a bit daunting but just go for it as they go back in easier than you expect.
 
Sometime it down to the switch itself being knackered. I have had a whale of time blood pouring from an bald patch. Try finding a good window toggle switch that does work okay.and unplug that to test with faulty windows. Lock itself also could be knackered too and needs replacing. I did a passenger side one and learned a new trick in cursing the fitters at Land Rover:rolleyes:
 
Sometime it down to the switch itself being knackered. I have had a whale of time blood pouring from an bald patch. Try finding a good window toggle switch that does work okay.and unplug that to test with faulty windows. Lock itself also could be knackered too and needs replacing. I did a passenger side one and learned a new trick in cursing the fitters at Land Rover:rolleyes:
One of the switches was my next suggestion. They're pretty easy to take out so you could try one of the other ones.
 
It's a bit daunting but just go for it as they go back in easier than you expect.

Haha ok, it's the handle cable that is still attached then that makes sense now. I'll try to get that out then just give it a tug.

One of the switches was my next suggestion. They're pretty easy to take out so you could try one of the other ones.

Thanks, I'll try this too. Should help to narrow down the problem. Cheers lads.
 
To remove the lock itself it best to removing the door handle to see the cables outside. Believe me i was doing a three stooges act by the time i hot the blighters back on.unplug the power source first then locate the door handle by hand an undo that second next the gutter frame for the window to slacken then the torx screws remove the lock mechanism.
 
To remove the lock itself it best to removing the door handle to see the cables outside. Believe me i was doing a three stooges act by the time i hot the blighters back on.unplug the power source first then locate the door handle by hand an undo that second next the gutter frame for the window to slacken then the torx screws remove the lock mechanism.

Perfect, this was what I needed. Glad to know I'm not the only one who has had a struggle getting the bugger out.
 
Back
Top