Freelander 2 SD4 SE 2013

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L

Liggies

Member
Posts
11
Location
RSA
Good day
My Freelander doesn’t seem to rev past 2500RPM - however, just after i started it it will rev past 4000RPM, but a few seconds later it is restricted to 2500RPM. While driving it won’t go past 2500RPM. I can still drive at 120km/h, does take some time to get there. The engine runs fine until getting to 2500RPM in all gears. There are no warning lights on. Diagnostics doesn’t show any errors. On the first diagnostic check it did show intermittent result on Water in Fuel sensor & Exhaust Gas circulation something also as intermittent, after clearing the codes no errors were recorded

Any suggestions?
Thanks
 
Check boost pipes for splits. Also make sure the turbo actuator is free to move through its full range.
 
Also check fuel filter.
Has it ever been inadvertently topped up with petrol? It makes the fuel filter elements gummy, restricting fuel flow to the engine.
 
And another check is that the throttle body flap is free to move, and the gears aren't stripped.
 
Hi guys
Thanks for the advise so far.
I took the throttle body out and checked the flap and it moves freely, also opened the side panel thingy and the gears are in very good shape. I also check the rubber pipe that connects to the throttle body and no cracks or any damage. I assume the that is the boost pipe…hehehe

i have also checked the fuel filter twice and there is no water in the fuel, it was really fun bleeding the filter and to get diesel through to start the Freelander.

What i have noticed and I’m not sure if it means anything. When i start the vehicle i can rev it past 4000RPM, a minute or 2 later she is back to 2500RPM. If i switch the engine off and start it again she is still the same at 2500RPM, however if i allow her to go through her resetting cycle with the clicks and high pitched one tone noise and i start her again I’m able to rev her past 4000RPM again, but only for a minute or so again.

Then, what i also noticed was is when i switch her off, as the engine stops, there is a kinda weird noise, like a quick poof sound. It might be a little air escaping or being sucked in, can’t figure that one out.

So next i will check the turbo actuator for free movement, i just need to google where it is and how it should operate

Thanks in advance for the advise
 
Evening guys
So today I checked the turbo actuator linkage for free movement and with my untrained eye it looked good, even unplugged the plug and cleaned it with electric kleen spray. Then I started the Freelander to see if the linkage move and it did. With the starting process the linkage moves with pressing the start button and after the engine has started it moves back to the previous position before the start button was pressed.

Are there any more ideas of things I can check?

Thanking you in advance
 
Hi Nodge68
The problem i'm having is that i live on a mine farm, the closest little town is about 50 km away. There is a mechanic there with a diagnostic machine there, but it only goes up to 2009 model for the Freelander. The closest LandRover dealer is 500km away. I'm planning a trip there the end of the month to have them have a look. In the meantime i'll still try and troubleshoot
But thanks for the advise so far
 
Liggies said:
Evening guys
So today I checked the turbo actuator linkage for free movement and with my untrained eye it looked good, even unplugged the plug and cleaned it with electric kleen spray. Then I started the Freelander to see if the linkage move and it did. With the starting process the linkage moves with pressing the start button and after the engine has started it moves back to the previous position before the start button was pressed.

Are there any more ideas of things I can check?

Thanking you in advance
Click to expand...
Make doubly sure you have pushed right home the temperature sensor plug on top of the fuel filter - it should lock in with a click but mine wasn't for a while after I changed the filter and then one day behaved much like yours. I found the suggestion from anoother guy with similar symptoms and found mine had pulled back a bit - clicked it home and jobsa goodun. Mine reported P0183 at the time using my Hawkeye diag.
 
Thanks Nodge68, will look into sourcing one of those

Dfossil, thanks for the input, checked it and it was clicked in, even cleaned it with eleckleen and clicked it back in again. Still the same

After i start the Freelander i can rev it to max, then i do a constant rev at 3500rpm and it will hold it there for about 15 seconds then it will drop to 2500rpm limb mode, so every-time i start it, it can do max rev but only for about 15 seconds‍♂️
 
Have you checked the throttle butterfly is free to move?
If it's going into limp mode, it should log a code.
 
Hi Nodge68
I have checked the throttle valve and it moves freely, even checked the gears on the side and they are in good shape
 
Liggies said:
Hi Nodge68
I have checked the throttle valve and it moves freely, even checked the gears on the side and they are in good shape
Click to expand...
Ok. It sounds like it needs a diagnostic, to determine the issue. But it does sound like a split in a rubber boost pipe, which is holding closed, then opening under pressure.
 
Hi Nodge68
So the other day i was driving to town (last weekend) and all of a sudden i get an amber warning with restricted performance then about a kilometre further a red warning with a restricted performance and the engine died…. Eventually got the mechanic from town to assist me, now he is the guy with the diagnostic machine that covers Freelander up and till 2009 models. He ran a diagnostic and couldn’t find any errors. He said that the only explanation he has, is that i ran out of fuel - so i told him and showed him that i still had a quarter tank left. So apparently the tank is kinda divided, as it has to make space for the exhaust running towards the back. He showed me that the bottom half of the one side of the tank was empty and the other side still had diesel in. So i had to get a gerry can with diesel, filled her up, bleed the fuel filter and she started. Now he recons there is a pump in the tank that might not work properly. Do you think this is related to the issues i have?
Thanks
 
Liggies said:
Now he recons there is a pump in the tank that might not work properly. Do you think this is related to the issues i have?
Click to expand...

There is a transfer pump in the tank, which takes fuel from one side of the tank to the other, because the tank is divided by the propshaft.

These pumps are known to fail, the symptoms being that it seems to runs out of fuel, but still shows about ¼ on the fuel gauge.
 
Liggies said:
Thanks, will it be something that i can fix/replace or should a proper mechanic fix/replace the pump?
Click to expand...
The tank needs removing to access the pump cover in the top of the tank.
It's an easy DIY job to replace the pump, once the tank is out.
 
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