Freelander 2 rear diff problems

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It sounds like the Haldex is transferring drive all the time.
It maybe thats the clutch pack isn't set up correctly.
I suspect that the clutches need calibration on the ECU. However I'm no Freelander 2 expert.
 
Is it possible destroying the haldex in just 100km of normal use in city roads?
I think it is not possible.
My mechanic didn't find any errors checking the car with the computer plugged under the steering.
It seems as, in the old 4x4, you lock manually the diff at 100%.
But 100% lock in the rear diff is not available in this kind of car.

What kind of mistake could be done replacing the bearings?
Could depend on some mounting torque?
 
Nodge68 said:
It sounds like the Haldex is transferring drive all the time.
It maybe thats the clutch pack isn't set up correctly.
I suspect that the clutches need calibration on the ECU. However I'm no Freelander 2 expert.
Click to expand...
Hi nodge, thank you for answering.
I saw some steps of the mechanic process he did.
He just toke apart the haldex and completely disassemble the diff.
So in the mounting step, he just put the haldex on without touching any more.

Is there a reset process or some trick because he think it could depend on some electronic fail that the plug-in check doesn't recognize.
 
I'm not a FL2 expert. But normally these electronic clutches need some kind of calibration after work. That's definitely the case with the D3 transfer box. The clutches in that do need calibration, even after an oil change.
Maybe give Bell Engineering a call or send them an email? They do repair the FL2 rear diff and Haldex.
 
No calibration needed.
The dirt in the haldex blocked the device.
I suggest when changing the diff bearings also a comlete work to haldex unit with washing all the unit and changing the oil filter of the unit.

Haldex unit has a long life oil and land rover doesn't consider any work on it but it is a big mistake.
They don't provide kit for set up but volvo and other does
 
Depending on age of vehicle,

Most pre 2010 fl2s will not have a "serviceable filter", as mentioned, a volvo one is an exact replacement,

Post 2010 there is a serviceable filter,

There is a Land Rover bulletin currently still active, should there be a noise from the diff, you replace the 2 drive shaft seals, the pinion bearing, the pinion seal and crush washer, there are also 2 large O rings,

As for the haldex, most of the time a haldex flush will sort most issues, all you need for that is the large O ring between the haldex and the diff, 2 ltrs of haldex oil, and a filter where available,

should that not sort it, you've got 2 options, replace the borg warner haldex pump, or the whole haldex unit, the unit is a serious purchase and not really something an ammeter can do on the drive,

the pump you can change and that is the biggest and most likely cause of any issues
 
Jonnyb1990 said:
Depending on age of vehicle,

Most pre 2010 fl2s will not have a "serviceable filter", as mentioned, a volvo one is an exact replacement,

Post 2010 there is a serviceable filter,

There is a Land Rover bulletin currently still active, should there be a noise from the diff, you replace the 2 drive shaft seals, the pinion bearing, the pinion seal and crush washer, there are also 2 large O rings,

As for the haldex, most of the time a haldex flush will sort most issues, all you need for that is the large O ring between the haldex and the diff, 2 ltrs of haldex oil, and a filter where available,

should that not sort it, you've got 2 options, replace the borg warner haldex pump, or the whole haldex unit, the unit is a serious purchase and not really something an ammeter can do on the drive,

the pump you can change and that is the biggest and most likely cause of any issues
Click to expand...
Don't see you in the Freelander section much. Nice concise write up :)
 
To refill a haldex you require 700-750ml to do it correctly Not 2 litres And i know It could be Just an attempt But with 100 euros i have To try.
There is no Way To test The Pump when It is disassembled but all the pins And The plug seems ok.
After a Good whash with special liquid everything seems ok.
I gonna give a feedback when It will be mounted again
 
When yer says flush, I assume her trying to clean it out at the same time, then fill again with fresh to correct level?
 

Work is done.
Refilling with the right procedure fuond in other forum, filter changed.
Haldex Is unlocked and rear wheels over the bridge with first gear on, are free.
Trying the car in the mud, four wheel drive works and the other programs of terrain response, too.

Everything seems working correctly but in te baord computer, the instant consumption, seems to be too high.
In the thigh bends no more problems.

Some doubt on the high diesel consumption
 
Going by previous posts of whirring noises getting louder with speed... I stupidly ignored the whirring noise only noticeable at 30 or below.... didn't help that the rear brakes seemed to be dragging and releasing the handbrake slightly seemed to reduce the noise...

Until that is a couple of weeks ago inspecting the underside of the vehicle I grabbed hold of the rear prop and found there was play at the rear diff input...

Thought to myself "bugger! Bet thats the rear diff front pinion bearing gone"

Contacted Land Rover customer services who advised taking it to nearest dealer to confirm.
Lo and behold I was right...
"That'll be £813.31 to put right sir, when would you like it booked in for?"
Oh by the way you'll be needing a new intercooler hose too that'll be another £280.60"

Land Rover customer services and Stratstone have no knowledge of afore mentioned technical bulletin regarding rear diff issues.... except I noted the work to be carried out states it includes a "diff mod"...

Land Rover customer services are of the opinion that our 2010 Freelander 2 with 90,000 miles on the clock is way to far past any warranty to help.

The words "not fit for purpose" spring to mind
 
Bromsgrove Defender said:
Land Rover customer services are of the opinion that our 2010 Freelander 2 with 90,000 miles on the clock is way to far past any warranty to help.

The words "not fit for purpose" spring to mind
Click to expand...

As it's 4 years and 30K miles out of warranty. LR are within there rights to say it's out of warranty.

They've been known to do the same thing with failed TDV6 engines in the D3. Those can break cranks at 90K miles with a bill of over £5K for a replacement. Unfortunately that far out of warranty, you're on your own.

Contact Bell Engineering. They should be able to help.
 
At least with F1, if you look after the various bits you'd be unlucky to suffer transmission problems. With F2 it looks like a lottery you're bound to lose. your bill would probably had been just as large if you hadn't ignored it and gone to get it sorted straight away. You could give Bells a call, they do F2 diff recons.
 
You could also try LR customer services with the line. "I was looking at a new replacement LR in the near future, but only if it's reliable" . It might work to get a discount, but might not.
 
We own a Freelander 2 (2007) td4. Our differential started being noisy. We have done a full service on rear differential. We had 4 bearings (both bearings for tires , one bearing for Haldex and central bearing) and seals replaced and oil and filters changed (both in Haldex and in differential). There was no noise involved now but our car made crackling sound (like we are squashing a plastic bottle) when we`re making full right or full left turn (90 degrees). The crackling stopped once we were going straight again. The noise appeared after Haldex was serviced. The crackling continued even after the second Haldex was fitted. So we went trough all the necessary steppes of disassembly and assembly of the Haldex with the service technician and it appeared that his colleague poured the same oil into Differential and the Haldex (needless to say those two are sold separately for a reason!). The wrong type of oil clogged up the Haldex valves and the lack of oil and pressure caused the crackling. Once the Haldex oil and valves were swapped with brand new ones, the crackling disappeared. Now everything works as it should!!! Our experience, just in case anybody gets the same symptoms!

Cheers
 
Last edited:
My 2010 FL2 auto is grumbling at the back end (35,000 miles) and I suspect the Diff bearing, I did the Haldex service recently, and it is still the same, I just need to check the wheel bearings first to be sure but I think the sound would change when you apply disk brakes which would stop the wheel hunting.
I am going to take out the diff when I get some better weather and I dont know if I will do it myself, or take it to a place near York who advertises on Ebay, some decent reveiws for them but I like to see what goes into my repairs.
Anyone take a diff out of a FL2 ? any comment on what kind of a job it is or any tips?
One thing I will be doing either way is to drill the bottom of the diff and add a drain plug, fully synth diff oil is about £12 a liter and I will change it once a year just to give it a better chance.
 
just curious if any 1 here has had rear diff disengagement issues, so going through the revs it’s a small jolt and a clunk, then reversing the back wheels skip, has any one else had these sort of issues?
 
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