Jusr a few thoughts on the negatives of FL2 ownership, which potential new owners need to be aware of.
While there are horror stories about reliability, dodgy rear diff and unreliable electronics in particular seem prevalent on the web.
The rear diff is well known to give issues, many being replaced under warranty, but also many after the warranty ran out. LR made a change to the input bearing dimensions some time in 2010, probably the latter part of 2010. I've been unable to identify a particular chassis number after which all rear diffs had the larger input bearing.
I don't believe the size if the bearing is solely responsible for the failures, but fitting the larger bearing did sort of help.
The PTU is another common failure point, both the splines to the gearbox and the PTU gears themselves are known to fail. PTU failure is more expensive to sort than the rear diff, as it's a more complex unit to manufacture amd repair. Additionally if the splines strip on the gearbox side of the link tube, then the gearbox crown wheel will also need replacing.
Both of these failures are likely due to automatic Haldex engagement whenever the vehicle pulls away from rest, which seems silly to me, but that's what the boffins at LR did. Obviously having the AWD engage so often means the tyres need to be identical, with similar tread depth all round. Maintaining tyres like this will minimise the strain on the AWD components under normal driving.
The later Gen4 Haldex itself can also develop a particularly nasty fault, where it engages much earlier than it should, causing shuddering of the drive line under slow cornering and under moderate to high acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear. This is caused by the hydraulic accumulator getting filled with cluch pack residues, which prevents the piston from moving it's full travel. This means the Haldex engagement comes in much earlier than LR intended, creating worse problems with the PTU and diff.
Many of these AWD system issues could have been reduced if LR had specified sensible fluid change intervals, rather than treating the various components as filled for life.
While discussing the drive line, the automatic transmission has been known to give issues, mostly confined to the torque converter clutch, and lack of software updates.
It's likely that the lack of timely fluid changes is at least partly to blame for TC clutch issues. A gentle shuddering felt in 5th and 6th gears at higher speeds is a sign of TC clutch issues. Replacing the TC is the only cure for this, after which the gearbox adaptions need to be reset.
The engine is on the whole pretty robust, the block itself good for well over 250k miles if the correct oil and filter maintenance schedule is followed.
There are some issues with ancillary components however. The injectors are generally good for about 100k miles, after which they can become troublesome, although that's not a guarantee.
Changing an injector isn't that difficult, however the ECM does need coding to the replacements, and the injectors themselves are expensive.
The EGR valve is known to give issues, as is the EGR cooler. It's a DIY replacement if needed, but an air path calibration is needed once the replacement EGR is fitted, or it won't function correctly.
The throttle body is also known to give issues, replacement being necessary, although repair gears are available for it.
Boost hoses are a common failure point, especially as they age. Replacement is easy, and silicone versions are available for a belts n braces repair.
The turbo can give trouble, but this is mostly due to the vanes sticking from lack of movement in normal driving. LR have published a repair bulletin for this.
The turbo actuator has also been known to fail, possibly due to sticking vanes. The turbo and actuator are calibrated together, so can't be replaced separately, although it has been done, but with unknown reliability.
The crank sensor is another common failure point, often starting as a misfire under load, before finally failing completely. If the crank sensor fails, the engine won't run. They're cheap and very easy to replace, and worth keeping in the vehicle just in case.
Those are the main issues with the FL2. You'll notice I didn't mention much electronic stuff, that's mostly because they aren't really that unreliable in that department.
Yes the steering lock can give issues, and the key dock too, but the rest of the electrical system has much the same reliability as the Freelander 1.
I would say that a good code reader / programmer is a must have item, otherwise the rest of the vehicle maintenance can be done with normal tools.
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