Can anyone give me any pointers how to get a past its best drum off. So far ive beat it with a lump hammer, fully loosened the handbrake cable adjuster and drilled out the retaining clips on the back of the dust shield. When I try to lever it off, the top side of the drum feels freed up but the bottom of the drum still wont budge.
Freelander 1 stuck brake drum removal
- Thread starter Dave112
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freelance
Well-Known Member
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- essex and beyond
Can you access through the backplate and wind the adjuster in?
Theres 2 oblong rubber bungs of the back, I've took them out and while laying under I've tried waggleing a small flat head screwdriver in the and cant find anything in there that wants to budge. judgeing by the condition of the brakes all round id be willing to bet that the adjuster will be siezed anyway
yea, surpriseingly they came out without needing to get the drill out
ITS OFF! managed to get it off by banging a big screwdriver in the center hole around the hub nut. need to add a new wheel cylinder to the shopping list now though as the shoes ripped the dust covers around the pistons. Think ill leave the other side until tommorow.
GrumpyGel
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If the cylinders on an 04 are similar to the ones on my '99 (and the brakes are different) they will be very cheap. I replaced mine last year with OE and was pleasantly surprised how cheap they were. However, if you damage the pipes connected to them, which often happens, then they are not cheap!
Be careful how you install the new bits. There have been people who that have renewed the brakes then complained that the brakes are useless and don't self adjust - but in actual fact they have installed the parts incorrectly. One notable numptie went about 10 pages into a thread complaining and not listening to people - until he went very silent.
Good advise to to take a picture of the old setup after removing the drum, but it sounds like that might not be a suitable suggestion in your case!
Be careful how you install the new bits. There have been people who that have renewed the brakes then complained that the brakes are useless and don't self adjust - but in actual fact they have installed the parts incorrectly. One notable numptie went about 10 pages into a thread complaining and not listening to people - until he went very silent.
Good advise to to take a picture of the old setup after removing the drum, but it sounds like that might not be a suitable suggestion in your case!
Thanks for the advice! Ive checked the price of a new cylinder and the are only £11 at a specialist nearby. Very cheap. I'll make sure to be careful with the fitting pipes and if it looks like they are gonna selfdestruct as soon as I get a spanner out I'll just swap over the dust covers.
If the cylinders aren't leaking, then I'd just swap the dust covers. The brake pipe always splits, so requiring replacement. However the worst part will be removing the cylinder fixing screws. These rust solid and the heads disintegrate making removal almost impossible.
I've had to use the new pistons and seals in the old cylinder before now, simply because the cylinder body couldn't be removed from the back plate.
I've had to use the new pistons and seals in the old cylinder before now, simply because the cylinder body couldn't be removed from the back plate.
guineafowl21
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- Inverness
^^^ +1
The less you touch back there, the better.
If you must change the cylinder, order a couple of fixing bolts for it. Then you can just shear off the old ones, and spin the cylinder off the brake union.
The less you touch back there, the better.
If you must change the cylinder, order a couple of fixing bolts for it. Then you can just shear off the old ones, and spin the cylinder off the brake union.
