Freelander 1.8 Turbo

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
disco_mikey said:
75d1c1ceccdbc0b0490f4d545c6a1f6a_zpsdb861gs9.jpg
Click to expand...

You're famous now DM ;)
 
The latest issues dropped on my door mat yesterday so I decided to read it at work last night. Shame the article wasn't a little longer, considering they can stretch an article about a "series" or "defender" over six pages without actually telling you anything......................
My question is, are you going to make kits available so we can all have a go at it. I'd take the 1.8T over my Td4's any day....................;)
 
Evidently the RR performance stats are 0-60 7.1 secs with a top of 130 mph (maybe limited?) compared to the Freelander V6 of 10.1 secs and 113 mph - so you're substantially quicker than the standard V6. Data taken from Parkers.
 
The V6 weighs 100kg more, and has 30 bhp less, and higher transmission losses being an auto, so one would expect the 1.8 Turbo to be quicker

The L322 is indeed electronically limited, but it gets nowhere near this speed in the 1/4 mile

The car will be off the road for the winter, trying to extract another 20-30bhp out of it, as well as loosing a bit more weight :)
As it is, it surprised quite a few cars
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-34731463

"Electrified superchargers, which compress air for just a few hundred milliseconds to add brief low-end torque until the turbo charger kicks in, will also hit the market in the next few months.
E-chargers, or e-turbos, will transform the driving experience, believes Mr Devauchelle, as they eliminate what's called turbo lag - that slight delay in power boost you experience after pressing the accelerator."

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

well done on the turbo project btw :)
 
disco_mikey said:
75d1c1ceccdbc0b0490f4d545c6a1f6a_zpsdb861gs9.jpg
Click to expand...

Hello Mikey,

Firstly a massive congratulations on the great job you've done, not only to document each step but to also get it published.

I've enjoyed reading the article and watching the YouTube clips so much that I've decided to do the same to mine.

I currently have a 1998 1.8 K-series that I've done a complete exterior Facelift conversion too. A long with a Port & Polished head, custom exhaust, Aluminium inlet manifold, 52mm aluminium throttle body (and an performance air filter, for what that's worth). All that is missing now is the speed I want :)

I was just wondering if you overcame the under performing braking issues, and if so what did you do to resolve them? Mine aren't the best as it stands, and mine are before the 2001 upgrade.
Also did you manage to get extra 20-30 bhp out of the engine, if so what did you do to achieve it?

Finally are there any tips you can think to offer when starting out? I didn't know if the older ECU setup in my Freelander might be an issue with achieving this conversion?

Great read, thank you for taking the time to document what you've accomplished.
 
Just read this thread. Love it! :D

How long can I withstand the temptation of inserting a 1.8T into mine? Especially as I have a complete engine sitting in the garage (intended for the MGF!)

How is the Freelander running? And as Winnie asked, what have you done about the brakes? :)
 
rob_bell said:
Just read this thread. Love it! :D

How long can I withstand the temptation of inserting a 1.8T into mine? Especially as I have a complete engine sitting in the garage (intended for the MGF!)

How is the Freelander running? And as Winnie asked, what have you done about the brakes? :)
Click to expand...
For the brakes, just add a later series (>2000) dual diaphragm Servo and Vacuum reservoir) - I am in the process of doing this as we speak. There is nothing wrong with the early (pre- 2000) brakes apart from excessive pedal pressure.
The larger servo should cure this - I will report back when all the parts arrive and are fitted.
:)
Joe
 
Interesting project, congrats on the build :)

Any chance of you posting up more build photos and some tech info on the issues you faced and how you solved them?

disco_mikey said:
Put it down the 1/4 mile drag strip today

Resulted in a 16.64s @ 79.2mph

For comparison, a 4.2 Supercharged L322 done it in 15.33
Click to expand...

1.3 sec ET difference at the 1/4 mile is pretty huge still. But obviously a lot closer than a stock FL would have been.
 
Look forward to hearing more about that mod Joe :):cool:

I think that Mike's problem was more to do with brake fade rather than inadequate stopping power Joe: I would agree with you, in general the Freelander's standard brakes should be man enough for the job. But for repeated 100-0 stops (which I doubt the Freelander was ever designed to do), the standard set up may not have sufficient cooling. The first mod may be to use DoT4.1 brake fluid (higher boiling point) and see whether you can get higher temperature pads (may be a custom order from Mintex?) Failing that, brake cooling ducts or larger rotors. aftermarket calipers may become necessary at the front... No idea whether a rear disc conversion is feasible? :)
 
300bhp/ton said:
Interesting project, congrats on the build :)

Any chance of you posting up more build photos and some tech info on the issues you faced and how you solved them?



1.3 sec ET difference at the 1/4 mile is pretty huge still. But obviously a lot closer than a stock FL would have been.
Click to expand...

It's a bit quicker than my V6 Freelander. That did a 17.23 second 1/4 mile. Still not bad for an old Freelander.
 
Last edited:
rob_bell said:
Look forward to hearing more about that mod Joe :):cool:

I think that Mike's problem was more to do with brake fade rather than inadequate stopping power Joe: I would agree with you, in general the Freelander's standard brakes should be man enough for the job. But for repeated 100-0 stops (which I doubt the Freelander was ever designed to do), the standard set up may not have sufficient cooling. The first mod may be to use DoT4.1 brake fluid (higher boiling point) and see whether you can get higher temperature pads (may be a custom order from Mintex?) Failing that, brake cooling ducts or larger rotors. aftermarket calipers may become necessary at the front... No idea whether a rear disc conversion is feasible? :)
Click to expand...

I measured the front disc temps at ~250°C after two 70 to 0 stops in my V6 Freelander.
For comparison my MG ZS180 front discs measured ~160°C on the same test, same road.
On normal roads, a manual Freelander's brakes are ok. I think they are marginal for the auto box Freelander tbh.
 
Nodge68 said:
It's a bit quicker than my V6 Freelander. That did a 17.23 second 1/4 mile. Still not bad for an old Freelander.
Click to expand...
Not denying it's not bad. But if my maths is right, if the Freelander is doing 80mph and is 1.3sec behind the RR. That's about 150 feet, about 8 car lengths or so.
 
rob_bell said:
Look forward to hearing more about that mod Joe :):cool:

I think that Mike's problem was more to do with brake fade rather than inadequate stopping power Joe: I would agree with you, in general the Freelander's standard brakes should be man enough for the job. But for repeated 100-0 stops (which I doubt the Freelander was ever designed to do), the standard set up may not have sufficient cooling. The first mod may be to use DoT4.1 brake fluid (higher boiling point) and see whether you can get higher temperature pads (may be a custom order from Mintex?) Failing that, brake cooling ducts or larger rotors. aftermarket calipers may become necessary at the front... No idea whether a rear disc conversion is feasible? :)
Click to expand...
Hi Rob, if he is getting fade the I agree 100%, it needs at least higher spec pads. Re the brake fluid definitely (I boiled off a considerable amount of dot3 that was in by mistake in an HS chevette with the brake discs glowing red after thrashing it down pendle hill........ :( .... went to DOT 4 after that.. would be 4.1 now)
I don't know what the modern mintex or high spec pads are like but the ones in the 80's / early 90's were evil until they got to working temps... in this case the larger vents and calipers would be a good choice. I am not a fan of drilled disks at all so would avoid them like the plague due to stress fracturing. Grooved seem better but I never noticed any difference on actual performance providing the rotors and calipers were up to the job. Ducting is certainly a good idea on the freelander ! - We were just mindful that is some cases, such as gravel , dust , off road or 'whites' the ducting can actually fire crap at the discs depending on the run of the pipework, great for tarmac though. :)
Joe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ggrupea
Freelander TD4 vacuum hose servo EGR and turbo
Replies
9
Views
666
ggrupea
ggrupea
S
Freelander 1 Turbo whistle gone suddenly (SOLVED)
Replies
6
Views
616
hd3
hd3
Z
Freelander 2 (LR2) Turbo coolant return pipe
Replies
5
Views
1K
Zebravanman
Z
htr
Freelander 1 K-series 1.8 Fly wheel
Replies
11
Views
847
htr
htr
Cyrus 200
Battery Drain
Replies
6
Views
362
Cyrus 200
Cyrus 200
Back
Top