Freelander 1.8 problems !

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A

andystarks

Member
Posts
21
Location
Rutland, UK
Hi guys,

I am after some advice, please.

I have recently bought a 2001 1.8 s/w to play with. Structurally she is fine but I bought her with a running problem. Yep, I know, I'm stupid!

So, when you are driving it is almost like she is missing on a cylinder. It's not constantly and it gets worse under load.

Sat stationary she will rev to about 4200 then 'miss' and stutter.

She is not overheating.
She has no evidence of HGF.
She has lots of history and appears to have been well looked after.

So far we have:-
  • replaced the cat
  • replaced coil packs
  • replaced HT leads
  • used a can of EGR spray cleaner
  • filled her with fresh fuel and Wynns injector cleaner
Although she has improved a wee bit with these changes, she is no where near safely usable.

I'm not overly mechanically minded but my colleague who I share a workshop with is (although he specializes in classic minis not 'new-fangled' stuff) so we have access to tools, ramps etc. He also has a Sykes Pickavant ACR4 code reader but we don't have the correct pod for Land Rover.

Can anyone offer any advice or pointers, please? And, no, I am not going to scrap it and get a 'proper' Land Rover! LOL. I can't afford one!

Thanks folks

Andy
 
I was thinking cool packs based on my experience, but you've changed them already.

What gap are in the plugs? K-series likes 0.9mm

Generally this is usually electrical, but could be fuel starvation on load, in which case fuel filter/ pump/ injectors...

Also consider the injector loom: could be a loom break causing trouble...
 
Hi guys,

Thanks for all the comments.

Here is the lastest info.

I've had it on a Sykes-Pickavant ACR4 reader with the correct MG-Rover pod and the only error that comes up is 0340 crankshaft sensor error, invalid reading.

Google says that 0340 is usually CAMshaft but the ACR is adamant it's crankshaft.

So, yesterday I changed the crankshaft sensor. No improvement and the same error coming up.

Fitted new quality spark plugs - no change.

Tested the camshaft position sensor and when the engine is running the variable lead shows 6-7 volts. I 'think' thats ok but not sure.

She will now rev up, stationary, to between 4 and 5k before farting and missing.

I did notice that there is pressure coming OUT from the air inlet (enclosure open) when she is farting.

I'll try to change the fuel filter, when I find it, but how to I test the fuel pump is doing what it should?

I'm heading to the workshop this afternoon and will do a road test to check her under load.

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the advice
 
I'd be checking the cam timing. It sounds like the cam timing is out (retarded). The factory marks are a bit hit'n'miss in some engines. It's also easy to screw up cam timing too. I've seen timing errors many times on K series engines. A cam timing error could potentially flag up an error with the crank position sensor.
 
Nodge68 said:
I'd be checking the cam timing. It sounds like the cam timing is out (retarded). The factory marks are a bit hit'n'miss in some engines. It's also easy to screw up cam timing too. I've seen timing errors many times on K series engines. A cam timing error could potentially flag up an error with the crank position sensor.
Click to expand...
\

Thanks, Nodge68.

Would this mean I will have to do a campbell replacement? Or is there a way to adjust the cam timing?
 
andystarks said:
\

Thanks, Nodge68.

Would this mean I will have to do a campbell replacement? Or is there a way to adjust the cam timing?
Click to expand...

Timing needs checking first. If it appears to be out, then remedial action is needed. If the belt is recent, then simply re-timing it is ok. However if the belt has done some distance, a replacement is needed.
 
Nodge68 said:
Timing needs checking first. If it appears to be out, then remedial action is needed. If the belt is recent, then simply re-timing it is ok. However if the belt has done some distance, a replacement is needed.
Click to expand...

The belt was done about 20k miles ago according to the paperwork I got with her.

The cam sensor and throttle position sensor were changed today. She appears to idle better now but that could also be from the fresh fuel and injector cleaner.

Been out for a drive today and, as long as you are gentle and don't go above 4000rpm, she no longer farts or misses.

How do I check the cam timing, please?

Also, it's been suggested that a replacement fuel filter might be needed as my Mini colleague has driven her and thinks she is under-fueling when under load.

Does that make sense?

Sorry to ask so many questions. I really do appreciate the time and help.

Cheers

Andy
 
Well based on my experience of the failing fuel pump/filter it could indeed be underfueling. Cam timing isn't hard to check. Take the outer covers off and use a suitable sized socket.. to turn the motor over to see if the timing marks align.
 
Last edited:
andystarks said:
The belt was done about 20k miles ago according to the paperwork I got with her.

The cam sensor and throttle position sensor were changed today. She appears to idle better now but that could also be from the fresh fuel and injector cleaner.

Been out for a drive today and, as long as you are gentle and don't go above 4000rpm, she no longer farts or misses.

How do I check the cam timing, please?

Also, it's been suggested that a replacement fuel filter might be needed as my Mini colleague has driven her and thinks she is under-fueling when under load.

Does that make sense?

Sorry to ask so many questions. I really do appreciate the time and help.

Cheers

Andy
Click to expand...

Are the codes still showing, now the sensors have been replaced? If the code keeps coming up, the check the timing.
If no codes are showing, then do as Htr suggests below
htr said:
Well based on my experience of the failing fuel pump/filter it could indeed be underfeeding. Cam timing isn't hard to check. Take the outer covers off and use a suitable sized socket.. to turn the motor over to see if the timing marks align.
Click to expand...
 
Loads of photos on the internet showing timing for K series engines. It's really easy to get it half a tooth out. You'll need a small mirror to check it.
 
When checking the timing do not trust the mark on the front (accessory) pulley. You need to pull that pulley off and check the mark on the lower timing belt pulley is correctly aligned.

There is only a "bump" to line up the keyway on the front pulley and it is easy to replace it without it being correctly aligned.
 
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