Freelander 1.8 petrol, cylinder head bolt tightening sequence and torque setting? Hgf.

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Ross Tait

Active Member
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Hi folks, newbie here on the forum, just got myself a 2002 freelander 1.8 petrol, head gasket is leaking although it's not too bad yet as not a lot of oil in the water and vise versa but enough to confirm it's gone, also lots of air appearing in cooling system. Ive ordered a head set, bolt set, oil, filter, oil system flush, cooling system flush and new coolant, its arriving Saturday and I'm all ready to do it minus some info I need. So I'm hoping someone here in the know can tell me
1) what's the bolt tightening sequence and torque setting?
2) just to check, I read online it takes 10 40w semi so I ordered that, is it correct?

Many thanks
 
It is not as simple as just changing the head gasket.

Make sure the block and head is true within .002". The head possibly won't be. Then check for grooves in the head from the HG seal on top of the liners. If you can feel them gripping a finger nail then the head needs to be peened and ground, or replaced. If you can see grooves, but not feel them with a finger nail then a Head Saver Shim should be used. I would tend to use one anyway.

Then check liner protrusion. If they are consistent and between 2 and 4 thou up then you should use a good MLS gasket. If they are not, then use the Payen Elastomer gasket.
 
As above [it's good advice], but include: a new coolant pump, cam belt & tensioner, replace thermostat [ easy while the head's off - maybe fit a 'remote' one] inlet & exhaust gaskets. Get good quality H bolts.
If you're up for it, check coolant expansion tank for cracking/crazing around the neck - replace if it is and the cap too.

An easy motor to work on. Oh and just in case no has already mentioned it, do not turn the crank while the head is off - the liners will move! = a much bigger job.
 
Freelanders seem to overheat very easily - and when I took the cylinder head off mine, it was clear that the cylinder head was completely cooked :(

Have a close look at the cylinder head when you remove it. There may be a faint ring, usually deeper on the exhaust side, around the combustion chamber. It shouldn't be palpable - but if it is wide, and deep enough to catch your finger nail in, the chances are that the cylinder head has gone soft.

This is what a "bad" head will look like:
IMG_3509.JPG

Otherwise, if only a faint line, good news. :)

I agree with above. If the liner is flush with the block (that's within production tolerance), then use an elastomeric head gasket. I've used the new and improved Payen BW750. :) Else, if you are taking out the liners for any other reason, use liner spacers, and then the multilayer/shim (MLS) gasket :)

And if you're doing that, it isn't a great deal more work to change the water pump, tensioner and cam belt (again, I've just done this). :)

Good luck!
 
Hi guys, thanks for all the useful info and pics. I have all the equipment here to do the head including skimming :D before I got the freelander it belonged to a customer of mine so I know its history for last 5 years. It's had its clutch done few years ago, I did the timing belt for them 2 months ago so it's all good forgot to mention but I actually have a new water pump ready to go in aswel :) I have bought a full head set so all gaskets and seals, the kit includes the MLS gasket type and I'm hoping when I pull it apart that the heads not too bad and that I can use that head gasket, if not I'll buy the elastomeric one as you have all said The freelanders done 107k miles but the engine still sounds sweet, been drove by a lady last 5 years and has never even seen a grassy field till I got it lol. Pretty sure I have everything I need bar an engineers steel rule to check the head for warping but soon as I get one I'll get started :D might even do photos and a write up if someone else hasn't already

Thanks again folks :)
 
Ross Tait said:
Hi guys, thanks for all the useful info and pics. I have all the equipment here to do the head including skimming :D before I got the freelander it belonged to a customer of mine so I know its history for last 5 years. It's had its clutch done few years ago, I did the timing belt for them 2 months ago so it's all good forgot to mention but I actually have a new water pump ready to go in aswel :) I have bought a full head set so all gaskets and seals, the kit includes the MLS gasket type and I'm hoping when I pull it apart that the heads not too bad and that I can use that head gasket, if not I'll buy the elastomeric one as you have all said The freelanders done 107k miles but the engine still sounds sweet, been drove by a lady last 5 years and has never even seen a grassy field till I got it lol. Pretty sure I have everything I need bar an engineers steel rule to check the head for warping but soon as I get one I'll get started :D might even do photos and a write up if someone else hasn't already

Thanks again folks :)
Click to expand...

Sounds good. One wee point, the surface needs to be a bit better than your average head skim to meet Rover's spec. I lap with 400 grit and WD40 as a lubricant on a flat surface. That is better than Rover's spec and I have not had a failure.
 
Hi there, yeah cool I'll take some pics as I go :) I recently rebuilt my Ghia x mondeo and did the same for that :D
Ah ok cool well I may take it a step further and go to 600 or 800 and will probably use engine oil to make it nice will only take a bit extra time :) sounds good.

Thanks again :)
 
Yeah no worries thanks, I'm hoping to get time this weekend :D
Also can someone confirm whether I should use 5w30 fully or 10w40 semi oil in these things?
Thanks :)
 
Nodge68 said:
5W30 is way to thin and has no place in an engine;)
Click to expand...

Depends on the engine. If it is a very late model one that is designed for 5W30 or even 0W30 then anything heavier is going to cause more oil to bypass via the relief valve and less oil in critical close tolerance bearings.
 
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