freeelander td4 engine oil make and grade
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BrummieBloke
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Only place i've seen it except for shell garage is on ebay.
SHELL HELIX DIESEL ULTRA 5w40 HIGH PERFOMANCE OIL 6 L on eBay, also, Other Car Accessories, Car Accessories, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 19-Mar-08 12:02:08 GMT)
JonFre
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Why Shell? Not every main dealer uses Shell. If you have decided on semi synth use any make that conforms to the spec in your car users manual.
Optimus Prime
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amen to that. There is a renault trafic van in our fleet which was NEVER serviced from new. It was picked up from a dealer with something like 7 miles on the clock, and just driven and driven and driven until the turbo disintegrated, and took the valves with it.
However, it managed to do 44,000 plus miles with no attention at all, certainly not an oil and filter change, so testament indeed to modern synthetic oils.
Not that I would ever consider leaving an oil change interval as long as 10,000, let alone 44,000. But it wasn't my van and wasn't down to me.
Don't know whether it's correct or not but on another forum (Belgian and independant, not make related I mean) I read (by members being mechanics in various brands garages) that when not doing lots of kilometers/miles per year it's better to use semi-synthetic oil. Fully synthetic is ok if doing 30 - 40.000 or more miles a year but if it's just to change the oil once per year with only 5 - 10.000 miles done it's even worse to use synthetic in that case ??
Don't know whether it's correct or not but on another forum (Belgian and independant, not make related I mean) I read (by members being mechanics in various brands garages) that when not doing lots of kilometers/miles per year it's better to use semi-synthetic oil. Fully synthetic is ok if doing 30 - 40.000 or more miles a year but if it's just to change the oil once per year with only 5 - 10.000 miles done it's even worse to use synthetic in that case ??
I'd love to know why they say that.
Don't know whether it's correct or not but on another forum (Belgian and independant, not make related I mean) I read (by members being mechanics in various brands garages) that when not doing lots of kilometers/miles per year it's better to use semi-synthetic oil. Fully synthetic is ok if doing 30 - 40.000 or more miles a year but if it's just to change the oil once per year with only 5 - 10.000 miles done it's even worse to use synthetic in that case ??
In my opinion it's just a matter of mileage per year. If not doing sufficient miles per year people might think they can drive 3 even 4 years with the same oil (fully synthetic) before they reach the number of miles the oil companies say it should be changed. As oil changes are done either on mileage (if enough in one year's period) or in a time period (once per year) it would become much too expensive using fully synthetic if it needs to be changed after one year with only something like 6 or 7.000 miles and that therefore it is better (more advantageous) to take the semi-synthetic at lower price as it serves perfectly well the low mileage or the one year period. That's the way I see it of course, but then again, who am I ?? Not living in Delphi, meaning I'm no oracle....
our new peugeot works van uses fully synthetic longlife oil and service intervals are 30,000 miles or 3 years
Very interesting topic, I am just about to service my TD4, I know when I serviced my TD4 a year ago, that the Landrover Dealer only topped up the oil, yet said it was good for another 12 months (and charged a fortune). I intend to fully change the oil this time, using Tesco's fully suynthetic, as recommended by one of our friends on this forum. My average mileage is about 8,000 miles a year. The question is, does oil deteriorate simply by being in the engine, or is it the mileage that really counts?? Cheers, Jon.
JonFre
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By using Tesco oil and a filter you are not spending much on a yearly change at 8,ooo miles. Diesel oil is filthy at that mileage and, to me, its nice to know you are at least trying to look after a nice piece of machinery by putting clean oil in. If an engine is not used the oil wont deteriorate unless condensation occurs with lots of stops /starts that do not vaporise the water, etc. Oil in sealed gearbox units will last for ages.
Incidentally the 3 year 30,000 mile changes often apply to leased vehicles, after all who is bothered when they are shipped out to auction.
OK boy's and Girl's
here is what you do, find your local outlet for Millers oil's
have a look at >> Millers Oils
part or full millers supply oil to a great many types of cars
i had a word with them down at the motor show in 2000
and ha ho it's the only oil i use now
dam good stuff
here is what you do, find your local outlet for Millers oil's
have a look at >> Millers Oils
part or full millers supply oil to a great many types of cars
i had a word with them down at the motor show in 2000
and ha ho it's the only oil i use now
dam good stuff
Fats Waldo
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Oil "deteriorates" quicker if you regularly use your vehicle for short runs where the engine does not reach its optimum operating temperature. Constant partial warming and then cooling breaks down the oil and also causes condensation to form. Vehicles constantly on the go, delivery vans, police cars, ambulances etc will get better performance from their oil (and engine) than those driven for only a few minutes each day. The Brand of oil used should not matter as long as the API/ACEA spec & logo is on the container. For me, Halfords semi-syntethic is as good as any.
JonFre
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Just a reminder - if the oil filter is very tight then the correct 36mm socket makes things a lot easier. For what its worth I would not do a filter change on a BMW engine without the socket, I've used an adjustable end on in the past but it's not good practice.
hi, just serviced my peugeot 206 hdi today and got the oil from the peugeot dealers it is 10w/40 synthetic based with the following spec ACEA A3/B3, MB-Approval 229.1,VW 500.00,API SL/CF would this oil do to service my freelander td4 the oil make is total quartz 7000 can get this for £17 for 5 litres may be less if i buy it in bulk to service both cars .
hi, just serviced my peugeot 206 hdi today and got the oil from the peugeot dealers it is 10w/40 synthetic based with the following spec ACEA A3/B3, MB-Approval 229.1,VW 500.00,API SL/CF would this oil do to service my freelander td4 the oil make is total quartz 7000 can get this for £17 for 5 litres may be less if i buy it in bulk to service both cars .
Speaking of bulk. Is it a wise idea to buy a plastic 'barrel' of 30 liters when it will only be served for one car. One oilchange a year and not even 10.000 kms a year, this means, with 5.5 liter per oilchange, it would keep up for at least 5 years. Will this oil (kept in a dry garage) perish over the years or will the last be as good as the first ?? Or, seen the price, would it be better to buy just a bottle of 5 liters and one of 1 liter and do this every year again? Think the 5 liter solution is recommended but wanted to ask.
rriggs
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I had oil and filter on my TD4 done today with fully-synthetic 5W40. Cost of 7 litres of oil was £34 and about £6 for the filter.
Cheers
Rog
Cheers
Rog
nfn
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Oil spec ! the only bit you need is the "B" GRADE as this is the European spec for Diesel engines
B3= High performance/extendend oil drain
B4= Direct inj diesel
I have just used Shell Helix 10/40 semi which is B3 and B4 spec.
Oil is a great marketing machine and since the boy racer brigrade makes them lots of money ! kids putting in fully syn in a clapped out 16v motor ! just waste of money.
Motorcycle oil is a lower grade then car oil but again they charge double per ltr as is for a performance motorcycle but read the specs and its not !
Comma/Unipart is refined by Esso (visited the plant in Gravesend) so just the same except in branded bottles !
When we visited the "expert" said that if an engine has been running on syn from new then it would be good to carry on through its life, but if an engine has done more than 25k on semi or mineral and then you change to Syn its a waste of money , it will not do it any harm but it will not provide the benefits of Syn as the engine has not been run from new with it, plus they said most engines could run on very low grade oil but it needs changing more often (4-6k) but as long as it was changed would not wear or harm the engine any more than expensive oils.
B3= High performance/extendend oil drain
B4= Direct inj diesel
I have just used Shell Helix 10/40 semi which is B3 and B4 spec.
Oil is a great marketing machine and since the boy racer brigrade makes them lots of money ! kids putting in fully syn in a clapped out 16v motor ! just waste of money.
Motorcycle oil is a lower grade then car oil but again they charge double per ltr as is for a performance motorcycle but read the specs and its not !
Comma/Unipart is refined by Esso (visited the plant in Gravesend) so just the same except in branded bottles !
When we visited the "expert" said that if an engine has been running on syn from new then it would be good to carry on through its life, but if an engine has done more than 25k on semi or mineral and then you change to Syn its a waste of money , it will not do it any harm but it will not provide the benefits of Syn as the engine has not been run from new with it, plus they said most engines could run on very low grade oil but it needs changing more often (4-6k) but as long as it was changed would not wear or harm the engine any more than expensive oils.
rriggs
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That is so true!! When I used to work for Ford we went on a jolly to Castrol and during the tour one of guys let slip that all the oil they sell is essentially the same. Yes, there are different grades but once you select a grade there is no difference. So the GTX "regular" oil, GTX "Performance" oil, the GTX "Diesel" oil, etc are all the same. The grade and viscosity are real differences - the rest is marketing!
For my FL I used fully-synthetic "diesel" oil because this was the cheapest Euro Car Parts had on the day!
Cheers
Rog
nfn
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It works tho ! people fuss over what oil to use, my mate runs a garage and they put the same oil in petrol and diesel engines as it meets all the specs for both and its a 10/40 its also B4 top spec Diesel oil but also good spec car petrol oil.
As long as you don't go to thick like 20/50 most would be perfectly fine if changed at the normal interval.
"Castrol magnetic" all oil's have magnetic properties once used but castrol used it as a marketing banner ! clever ! its no more magnetic than any other oil but they are just telling you ! (this info gained from the visit to Esso)
As long as you don't go to thick like 20/50 most would be perfectly fine if changed at the normal interval.
"Castrol magnetic" all oil's have magnetic properties once used but castrol used it as a marketing banner ! clever ! its no more magnetic than any other oil but they are just telling you ! (this info gained from the visit to Esso)
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