Free Lander TD$ auto box issue

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a4tlo

New Member
Posts
9
Hi everyone I have a 2003 TD4 Freelander when changing up the gears in drive its very smooth untill 4th gear to 5th gear, where the vehicle seems to jerk into gear its not a smooth change at all, but does not always do it. it also does it in tipp Tronic. I have not changed the oil yet. as maybe some one on here will be able to point me in the right direction before I do change the Oil.

Great site I look forward to any info that may help. Regards S
 
Likely to be the wrong brand of ATF - the Jatco box has it's own almost unique Texaco spec - I forget right now the numbers - someone else will know it.
Or alternatively the level is incorrect. This is a sensitive box as far as quantity and spec of ATF is concerned
 
Likely to be the wrong brand of ATF - the Jatco box has it's own almost unique Texaco spec - I forget right now the numbers - someone else will know it.
Or alternatively the level is incorrect. This is a sensitive box as far as quantity and spec of ATF is concerned
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Singvogel
Thank you for your reply, the Oil is ATF 402. I forgot to mention I have called a auto transmission centre told me its the drum or something like that and its a £465.00 repair, I am a EX mechanic although i hung up my overhauls 10 years ago and always get second opinions, and I just dont trust what the auto engineer told me on the phone.

Regards S
 
would always try a fluid change on this gearbox 1st, amazing what it cures. As singy said, tis a very sensitive box.
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Will do I will get the Oil and change it asap. just printed off some excellent threads on the correct way for changing the Oil.

Regards S
 
Yes I have read about losing the drive, and I will make sure i double check before i even get a spanner in my hand.(LOL)
 
u dont need to use the texaco oil u can also use super atf ( dextron three!!! ) its a measured amount of 4ltrs filled through the breather on top of the gear box then prime and check level via level bung top up until oil comes out then re prime and recheck ....on final check allow flow of oil to come to an almost stop from level bung whilst engine is running...as to much oil is just as bad as not enough in these boxs!!!!
again good luck!! :)
 
u dont need to use the texaco oil u can also use super atf ( dextron three!!! ) its a measured amount of 4ltrs filled through the breather on top of the gear box then prime and check level via level bung top up until oil comes out then re prime and recheck ....on final check allow flow of oil to come to an almost stop from level bung whilst engine is running...as to much oil is just as bad as not enough in these boxs!!!!
again good luck!! :)
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Stoney Thanks again. I will post and let you guys know if the oil change corrects the fault.

Regards S
 
If it's the fluid or the drum for that matter why is it happening only in 4th & 5th, think it's more likely a problem with the torque convertor lock up solenoid, normally this only operates on 4th & 5th gear (it can operate in 2nd or 3rd but only if the fluid temp is high) & it has a pressure control valve so the lock up is supposed to be smooth not harsh as you are describing.
I would check the 2 connectors on top of the box, disconnect the battery pull them appart & give them a spray with contact cleaner. If that doesn't do it & the level is ok then you might need a specialist to check the lock up solenoid.
 
If it's the fluid or the drum for that matter why is it happening only in 4th & 5th, think it's more likely a problem with the torque convertor lock up solenoid, normally this only operates on 4th & 5th gear (it can operate in 2nd or 3rd but only if the fluid temp is high) & it has a pressure control valve so the lock up is supposed to be smooth not harsh as you are describing.
I would check the 2 connectors on top of the box, disconnect the battery pull them appart & give them a spray with contact cleaner. If that doesn't do it & the level is ok then you might need a specialist to check the lock up solenoid.
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Thanks for that M,

Today I got the vehicle up to temp 44c,
went through the gear two times approx 3 sec per gear, left it in Park.
Then removed the Oil level 14mm bolt, I got 1.2 Ltr of dirty Oil. (with The engine Running) replaced the Oil level bolt. Turned off the engine.
I then removed the 24mm drain plug and dropped a further 3 ltres, making a total of 4.2 litres.
Replaced the washer and refitted the drain plug.
I then removed the large vacume hose to give me acsess to the Filler /breather rubber bung. and filled up 3litres of ATF402 (5 litres cost me £45.00) after putting the oil in I refitted the Hose and started the engine left ticking over for 10 mins then took a temp reading 43c and removed the Oil level 14,mm bolt, this time no oil came out so I topped up a further 1/2 lte and then I got a trickle from the oil level hole replace the 14mm bolt job done. test drove the vehicle still no better although It must have had 1/2 litre too much oil in the Box.
I then returned home and disconected the batt and the two large connectors gave them a wd40 squirt and refitted them test drove the car and no difference.

I know this box had new selonoids /points in it last year. I think I will just run the car and see if it gets any worse? does any one know how long this kind of thing can last for before i lose the full drive? we drive the car very light and dont tow. its mainly a school bus for the winter.

Regards S

I
I
 
getting oil hot a droppng would have been enough ,what was old oil like its very good diagnostic tool for condition of mechanicals .how dirty did it smell burned look blackish
 
getting oil hot a droppng would have been enough ,what was old oil like its very good diagnostic tool for condition of mechanicals .how dirty did it smell burned look blackish
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Hi James.
The old oil was darker not a nice Cherry Red? the viscosity was very thin to be expected as it was hot oil, Col darker cloudy smell not too bad but cert a different smell from the new oil.
 
the oil only usually gets dirty looking if been in forever or fault in box,lock up clutch is in torque convertor ,the rest of clutches can be inspected by lowering box enough to get end cover off box ,solenoids and ecu wiring etc should show with diagnostics ,physical by inspection
 
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