Mukiwa
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P38A For todays trick the fuse box burned out - in France. Solved - new fuse box now fitted and working
- Thread starter Mukiwa
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Mukiwa
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- Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
From this bit>>
brianp38dse
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That's the stub in the head that top rad hose fits to, I cant see it in microcat or on the rimmers site,
may be a case of finding pipe the right outside diameter and Loctite and push it in, Wammers would know best on that one I think.
I have a spare head and the stub looks like that i was looking at getting a mate to machine one up form if required.
may be a case of finding pipe the right outside diameter and Loctite and push it in, Wammers would know best on that one I think.
I have a spare head and the stub looks like that i was looking at getting a mate to machine one up form if required.
Mukiwa
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Hi Brian, I thought the same thing. I'm going to look for aluminium if I can but it only needs to get me 750 miles and then I can get it sorted properly. If you do get your mate fab one up I'm in! I need one now, and I bet if the diesel owner's look I'm not the only one
brianp38dse
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Can you measure the OD and post it up as I cant get to my spare atm and I will have a look to see what I can find this end.
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- Preston Lancs.
It's the I/D of the hole in the head when cleaned out that you need to make a new one.
Datatek
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With good antifreeze they should not corrode like that although they are known to work loose.
I have a spare one in the head of my scrapper, but I can't remove it.
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- Preston Lancs.
Needs an expanding internal puller. Have a decent one in a scrap head in garage, but am not fit enough at the moment to go down there and remove it.
stemac33
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I had that with that bit of pipe used chemical metal and epoxy putty to temp fix till I could get one. Couldn't find one so I made one out of some steel tube about 10000 miles later.
Mukiwa
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- Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
Hi guys,
I was put onto Turner Engineering Range Rover BMW M51, 664613 Water Tube Cylinder Head, (Code: 4613), £9.99Exc. VAT, (£11.99 Inc. VAT).
I'll try to temp fix mine with putty as I'm running short of days before my return trip to UK.
I have only put pink coolant in it (OAT I believe). I have flushed the cooling system out 3 times since I got the engine including 2 with engine coolant flush and still this crap is coming out. Funny thing was it wasn't in the bucket of waste coolant that I always sieve afterwards.
The ironic thing is that the V8 engines (not sure which model) has a pipe almost identical to this but it screws in and isn't interference fit.
I will attempt to patch the pipe tonight. Thanks for the advice guru's
I was put onto Turner Engineering Range Rover BMW M51, 664613 Water Tube Cylinder Head, (Code: 4613), £9.99Exc. VAT, (£11.99 Inc. VAT).
I'll try to temp fix mine with putty as I'm running short of days before my return trip to UK.
I have only put pink coolant in it (OAT I believe). I have flushed the cooling system out 3 times since I got the engine including 2 with engine coolant flush and still this crap is coming out. Funny thing was it wasn't in the bucket of waste coolant that I always sieve afterwards.
The ironic thing is that the V8 engines (not sure which model) has a pipe almost identical to this but it screws in and isn't interference fit.
I will attempt to patch the pipe tonight. Thanks for the advice guru's
Datatek
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- Near Poitiers SW France
That pipe stub is just another example of crap German engineering IMO. The stub should either have been cast with the head, or the head faced off and a stub with a flange bolted on.Hi guys,
I was put onto Turner Engineering Range Rover BMW M51, 664613 Water Tube Cylinder Head, (Code: 4613), £9.99Exc. VAT, (£11.99 Inc. VAT).
I'll try to temp fix mine with putty as I'm running short of days before my return trip to UK.
I have only put pink coolant in it (OAT I believe). I have flushed the cooling system out 3 times since I got the engine including 2 with engine coolant flush and still this crap is coming out. Funny thing was it wasn't in the bucket of waste coolant that I always sieve afterwards.
The ironic thing is that the V8 engines (not sure which model) has a pipe almost identical to this but it screws in and isn't interference fit.
I will attempt to patch the pipe tonight. Thanks for the advice guru's
Mukiwa
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- 472
- Location
- Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
I agree, just like the EGR blankers. Metal putty time now, let's see how this goes
Weber did much the same interference fit silliness with the 40DFAV carb fitted to the early Scimitars. (Ford Essex 3.0 V6)
Fuel inlet to carb pipe was interference fit so the cycles of heat & cooling meant that the different metals wore & the inlet pipe could eventually blow out & petrol at 15psi was sprayed all over the engine.
Sequence of photos in one of the club magazines showed the demise of one from wisps of smoke from under the bonnet to a pile of 'guess the make' remains.
Checked my own SE5 & it wasn't far off doing the same!!
Fuel inlet to carb pipe was interference fit so the cycles of heat & cooling meant that the different metals wore & the inlet pipe could eventually blow out & petrol at 15psi was sprayed all over the engine.
Sequence of photos in one of the club magazines showed the demise of one from wisps of smoke from under the bonnet to a pile of 'guess the make' remains.
Checked my own SE5 & it wasn't far off doing the same!!
brianp38dse
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Good find on the pipe from Turners, I have saved that for the future not worth trying to make one at that price .
Mukiwa
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- 472
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- Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
Fitted new fusebox and now the starter starts and EAS operational again.
Made myself a field expedient replacement pipe/tube for the rotted out coolant header pipe. 2 bits of vacuum cleaner pipe jammed one inside the other - TOP TIP a Lidl parkside ash vacuum cleaner tube is the exact size in o/d - but too thin on it's own. Cut the same length of Henry hoover pipe (stainless steel), wrap in self amalg tape and slowly push them together. You need to chamfer the ally tube or it won't go in. Get a piece of wood for the end and then hit with lump hammer until it seats. Wait for loctite to dry, top up coolant, take for test drive. Still no leaks 3 hours later
Rommel is on the return to Blighty in 2 days bringing the trailer back
New Turner pipe is waiting at home to be fitted. Does anyone know if some adhesive of form of loctite is used to hold these tubes in place? If so then I'll do the job properly - assuming I can get this temporary pipe out that is!
Made myself a field expedient replacement pipe/tube for the rotted out coolant header pipe. 2 bits of vacuum cleaner pipe jammed one inside the other - TOP TIP a Lidl parkside ash vacuum cleaner tube is the exact size in o/d - but too thin on it's own. Cut the same length of Henry hoover pipe (stainless steel), wrap in self amalg tape and slowly push them together. You need to chamfer the ally tube or it won't go in. Get a piece of wood for the end and then hit with lump hammer until it seats. Wait for loctite to dry, top up coolant, take for test drive. Still no leaks 3 hours later
Rommel is on the return to Blighty in 2 days bringing the trailer back
New Turner pipe is waiting at home to be fitted. Does anyone know if some adhesive of form of loctite is used to hold these tubes in place? If so then I'll do the job properly - assuming I can get this temporary pipe out that is!
Pete The Biker
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Well done!
Datatek
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Pipe is an interference fit, put the new stub in the freezer for 24 hours and warm up the engine before fitting. No harm in lubricating it with a little Loctite.Fitted new fusebox and now the starter starts and EAS operational again.
Made myself a field expedient replacement pipe/tube for the rotted out coolant header pipe. 2 bits of vacuum cleaner pipe jammed one inside the other - TOP TIP a Lidl parkside ash vacuum cleaner tube is the exact size in o/d - but too thin on it's own. Cut the same length of Henry hoover pipe (stainless steel), wrap in self amalg tape and slowly push them together. You need to chamfer the ally tube or it won't go in. Get a piece of wood for the end and then hit with lump hammer until it seats. Wait for loctite to dry, top up coolant, take for test drive. Still no leaks 3 hours later
Rommel is on the return to Blighty in 2 days bringing the trailer back
New Turner pipe is waiting at home to be fitted. Does anyone know if some adhesive of form of loctite is used to hold these tubes in place? If so then I'll do the job properly - assuming I can get this temporary pipe out that is!
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Fitted new fusebox and now the starter starts and EAS operational again.
Made myself a field expedient replacement pipe/tube for the rotted out coolant header pipe. 2 bits of vacuum cleaner pipe jammed one inside the other - TOP TIP a Lidl parkside ash vacuum cleaner tube is the exact size in o/d - but too thin on it's own. Cut the same length of Henry hoover pipe (stainless steel), wrap in self amalg tape and slowly push them together. You need to chamfer the ally tube or it won't go in. Get a piece of wood for the end and then hit with lump hammer until it seats. Wait for loctite to dry, top up coolant, take for test drive. Still no leaks 3 hours later
Rommel is on the return to Blighty in 2 days bringing the trailer back
New Turner pipe is waiting at home to be fitted. Does anyone know if some adhesive of form of loctite is used to hold these tubes in place? If so then I'll do the job properly - assuming I can get this temporary pipe out that is!
648.
myfirstl322
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Mukiwa
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- Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
600 miles done, got an earlier ferry. My field repair held up and 23.3mpg average pulling my trailer the whole way.
I fitted an aftermarket head unit about 8 weeks ago and it has a battery voltage display. Looking back after the fuse box burned out, I remember that it was showing 11.2 - 12.0 volts, but mainly 11.4 whilst driving. I checked the alternator and it was putting out 13.8v give or take. Since I've fitted the working fuse box the battery voltage display on the radio now shows 12.3 - 13+ volts all the time, even with all electrical items, main beam, heated windows the lot. So it was a precursor to the fusebox burning out. Note to self about voltage drops in the future
I fitted an aftermarket head unit about 8 weeks ago and it has a battery voltage display. Looking back after the fuse box burned out, I remember that it was showing 11.2 - 12.0 volts, but mainly 11.4 whilst driving. I checked the alternator and it was putting out 13.8v give or take. Since I've fitted the working fuse box the battery voltage display on the radio now shows 12.3 - 13+ volts all the time, even with all electrical items, main beam, heated windows the lot. So it was a precursor to the fusebox burning out. Note to self about voltage drops in the future
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