Fob programming - what are the options?

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agentmulder

agentmulder

Member
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52
Location
NZ
Gidday,

LUCAS 17TN / KHH17TN - you know it, looks like this:

dCf3d.jpg


I have a 2008 Defender 110 PUMA with an original fob, but I want another at the ready, so bought a used one off ebay (i.e. not 'new', and never used with my auto).

The local 'Key Dr' says programming cannot be done.

Researching internet indicates that both yes and no it can and cannot be done - what was I expecting? Typical internet ;).

I'd like to know stories - well, facts - from people who have managed to do this successfully.

As it stands I've contacted these folk about sending a doo-hickey to me:
http://www.remotekey.co.uk/land-rover/defender-2/

No reply as of yet.

Any info appreciated. Cheers
 
Last edited:
Ok, good to know...

Actually, just double checking: that's a used fob/plip from one vehicle being programmed for another ?

(That is where past searches on the internet weren't so clear - when people say 'new', the distinction between 'new to my car' ('...and used') and 'new and unused' isn't made.)

Also keen to know if you had a working fob was it also programmed? ... so now you have two fobs (?)

There is word on the streets that once you program one, it deletes all other fobs, solution is programming them all in the single session.
 
I bought a used fob off of eBay. I programmed that fob to work with my 'stock' alarm system (10AS) using a nanocom. It was literally a matter of minutes to program it.

However, at first I bought the wrong plip (there are a few Lucas models), so make sure the one you buy is right. It's also a bit expensive to buy a nanocom just to program a fob :) I'm sure there's a lovely landyzone member near you that might let you borrow theirs whilst they sit next to you.

Mine is a 2001 defender with 10AS alarm and 3TXD fob/plip

:)
 
The plastic case has different details, which makes me unhappy face, but in turns out the PCBs inside have the same numbers on them (53873753D) - if that doesn't mean they're the same unit then the designers are d@#kheads :rolleyes:;)

As I understand it, I have a 10AS.
 
agentmulder said:
The plastic case has different details, which makes me unhappy face, but in turns out the PCBs inside have the same numbers on them (53873753D) - if that doesn't mean they're the same unit then the designers are d@#kheads :rolleyes:;)

As I understand it, I have a 10AS.
Click to expand...

Yep, my two cases have different models compared to what's on the PCB. Weird huh.

Anyhoo, assuming the 10AS is a fairly standard unit and hasn't changed, you will be able to program it with a nanocom. Alternatively, when remotekey get back to you, they'll send a magic gizmo to plug in and by the wonders of electrickery, the key they've sent will work too (but not the fob you've just bought)
 
I'm hoping that remotekey will just send the the doo-hickey - I'm happy to pay a 'rental premium'.

The local dealer is:
  • Slow
  • Reticent with very low motivation to share technical details
  • Layers of bureaucracy/phone-menus/hold music/blah
But at least they're costly.

I'm scoping out local (NZ) nanocom owners who are keen to offset the cost of their unit with a little usage time also (paid in beer dollars). Much more fulfilling in terms of time on planet earth.
 
Mechanic at Dealer:

"maybe we can do it, sometimes these things are tough"

Wants £75 either way - if he fails I still pay

Weeee! o_O
 
You need all the fobs that you want to work as you need to reprogram the 10AS to recognise them all at the same time.
So long as the fob pcbs has the same numbers then they will work.
The outer casings can have all sorts of markings on them as most of them are aftermarket items.
The same fobs are/were used on several Rover motors but I have no idea which ones.
I bought two 3TXB fobs on fleabay and they worked with no problems after programming.
 
Cool, buuuut if possible can we keep this thread on topic - i.e. known working config from people who actually done it.
 
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