FL2 Haldex strip down

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Be careful, as Bell Engineering can't open and clean the accumulator, so don't offer a guarantee on an old Haldex repair.

There appears to be no sure way to clean the accumulator without disassembly, which requires specialist tools.
The best you can do at home is to try to flush the accumulator, and hope for the best.

I'm driving mine in 2WD at the moment, as mine is also scrabbling on cornering and under heavy acceleration in a straight line. I also found the steering is lighter and picked up about 2 MPG running 2WD, which proves it's basically stuck in AWD.

I'll get round to investigating the issue at some point, but for now I'll be using it in 2WD.
Ok thanks very much for that. I wondered if i could fill the haldex with degreaser and let the pump run with ignition on but no drive, wondered if that could flush through the accumulator then drain flush with haldex oil and refill. Just a thought. Not sure if that would work or reck the unit. Dont see why it should though. …
 
The pump can simply be run with a 12v supply, no need for it to be in the vehicle. I tested my pump on the bench with my bench power supply. I wanted to check the current draw too, so running on the power supply made good sense.

I'm unsure as to the route of fluids through the accumulator, but I believe that the deposits that cause the issue aren't in the normal fluid flow, which makes cleaning it very difficult unless it's stripped down, which isn't practical.
It seems the design is flawed to me, which isn't ideal for such an expensive component.

Also any solvent needs to be safe for the seals inside the unit, or more damage could be done.

I'll see if the manual has a fluid route shown.
 
Ah i see. Yeah i wondered if it would even reach reach the accumulator. Was just a thought. Thanks very much for your input. Always appreciated
 
Hi there. New fl2 owner with haldex scrabbling shuddering problem on low speed turns only. I believe im in 4wd when i shouldnt be. Read lots posts and watched videos so serviced unit and its the same mby even v slightly worse infact, i remived split open haldex ecu and cleaned with contact cleaner reassmbled and still same. At my wits end tbh and saw this post here. Can i ask has anyone found a way of flushing accumulator without removing as i belive its a big spring you really dont want to try remove. When fuse out problem gone so i assumed was mechanically ok ? 🤷🏽‍♂️ exasperated at this point if im honest an im a good 6 hrs away from bell engineering. Ive managed to secure a full unit from a breakers so going to swap components off that in the hope i fix it that way. Other than this i love the car my mrs has newer one also we both love them

Hi Mugatu78.
I have just has my FL2 ECU off and sent it to Matt at ( https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/ ) he did the scrabbler fix on the ECU checked myN373 valve which was ok, my FL2 is now runnning has it should no scrabbling or grabbing i think i have answered your questions on another forum, but if not follow the trouble shooting if you have a gen 4 Haldex.

Then drop Matt an email he should get back to you quite quickly.

Link to how i cleaned my spare Haldex gen 4 & diff i managed to bag myself.
 
Hi Mugatu78.
I have just has my FL2 ECU off and sent it to Matt at ( https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/ ) he did the scrabbler fix on the ECU checked myN373 valve which was ok, my FL2 is now runnning has it should no scrabbling or grabbing i think i have answered your questions on another forum, but if not follow the trouble shooting if you have a gen 4 Haldex.

Then drop Matt an email he should get back to you quite quickly.

Link to how i cleaned my spare Haldex gen 4 & diff i managed to bag myself.
Excellent glad you got it sorted and thanks very much indeed. Will keep posted on how i got on 👍🏼
 
Excellent glad you got it sorted and thanks very much indeed. Will keep posted on how i got on 👍🏼
I have u it coming from breakers. Will swap ecu over and see if any difference, if not i think i will try this scrabble stopper reprogramming. Thanks again
 
Hi Mugatu78.
I have just has my FL2 ECU off and sent it to Matt at ( https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/ ) he did the scrabbler fix on the ECU checked myN373 valve which was ok, my FL2 is now runnning has it should no scrabbling or grabbing i think i have answered your questions on another forum, but if not follow the trouble shooting if you have a gen 4 Haldex.

Then drop Matt an email he should get back to you quite quickly.

Link to how i cleaned my spare Haldex gen 4 & diff i managed to bag myself.
Glad yours is sorted.
I'm curious as to what is done to solve the scrabbling issue on the module. I'm guessing it's not a software fix, so maybe just a hardware tweak instead.
 
Hi chaps.

I’m on phase 2 of my repair/servicing on my 2014 FL2 ! I’ve completed the installation of a replacement PTU and driveshaft, so I’m looking forward to some quieter driving! Now while I have the prop off I decided to remove the Haldex to give it a proper coat of looking at and a thorough clean! The car had no warnings or anything like that so I’m assuming all is Ok with the unit itself.

Once I removed the Haldex I noticed oil and grit build on the outer clutch basket casing, if I spin the top ring/bearing it feels gritty! Obviously crap has been getting in somehow past the seal, which would explain the fact it looked as though something had been leaking on the joint with the rear diff!

I’ve got all the new replacement seals, filters, fresh oil etc, but now I have it out I think I’d like to strip the clutch plates down and check them over for wear and clean off any grit that might be inside the basket! The only problem is I have no idea how to take it apart?

Any help/ideas on how I strip the clutch plates out of the basket without damaging anything? I’ve had the usual Google and YouTube search but drawn a blank!

Cheers

View attachment 298150
there is a man on you tube that does a complete overall of the Heldex he replaces all bearing and he works in a shed sorry but i do not have a name search for heldex overall
 
Ah well update not great. Got unit from breakers. Swapped ecu hoping for an easy fix after service made no difference, still same noises. Drive 15 mins and got reduced traction transmission fault code again, read codes using icarsoft i just purchased and its the same faults i had on previous ecu. I had convinced myself had to be electrical as noise goes away with fuse out, read a lot of similar vw audi ones ecu was the cause. Confused. One thing the noise but these losing communication codes are present even with different haldex ecu. I do have full unit from breakers i cld swap but feeling a bit defeated at the moment. Wonder if i have two seperate problems. One causing noise and something electrical causing the codes and dash warning. Back to the drawing board
IMG_1829.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1828.jpeg
    IMG_1828.jpeg
    393.6 KB · Views: 94
  • IMG_1827.jpeg
    IMG_1827.jpeg
    385 KB · Views: 90
  • IMG_1825.jpeg
    IMG_1825.jpeg
    298.4 KB · Views: 101
Ok hi. So since last post i decided to drain it again and refill with fresh oil and hopefully get more dirt out. Oil was black again only couple weeks old, swapped the pump and the valve from the breaker one and filled with more fresh mannol haldex oil, so its still sticking in awd and draggin back wheels on low speed turn. Took for drive waiting on usual fault codes after 15/20mins and never came. Drove 45 mins and no traction reduced message and no related codes on icarsoft when i returned sooo maybe partially fixed in that respect, was hoping after driving a while with the new oil again it would release and the noise be gone but its not happening, i suspect the accumulator assy is gunked up, i could try swapping the whole unit for the breaker one or send away to haldex repairs and get the scrabble stopper haldex ecu reprogram thing. Decisions decisions 🥴
 
Do you know if i will get the haldex unit out without dropping the diff ? If i disconnect prop shaft is there enough play to get haldex out or is not that easy ? 🥺
 
To remove the Haldex, you need to lower the front of the diff, which is easy to do by removing the front cross member.
I'd swap the Haldex for the breaker one, as it this point you've nothing to lose.
If it doesn't solve the scrabbling, then get the ECM modified.
 
Yeah sounds like a plan i’ll have a go why not. Not confident with the diff but ill get a proper look at it and try figure it out thanks. Look forward to the end of this issue

Thanks again 🍻
 
Yeah sounds like a plan i’ll have a go why not. Not confident with the diff but ill get a proper look at it and try figure it out thanks. Look forward to the end of this issue

Thanks again 🍻
Make sure you get the seals for the Haldex to diff joint, and technically the propshaft bolts need replacing, however thread lock will work instead.
The Haldex only takes an hour or so to remove from the vehicle, so it's not a difficult job really.
 
Well wee update. Today i removed prop shaft enough to get haldex out and swapped for one from breakers i got for £150 got it all back together new filter and oil took for test drive and to my astonishment i think its fixed haha. Only had time to do short test but back wheels not skipping no noises when pulling away with full lock so fingers crossed. I used the mannol haldex fluid which is very cheap. Tenner a bottle basically and seems to be ok so far. If any changes will update. Thanks all for advice. Very much appreciated, now i have to try replace a noisy wheel bearing next 😂😂
 
I should add i did notice a bit of a high pitched whine while on full lock but not sire if thats my wheel Bearing or diff. Hopefully will go away anyway and nothing like what it was. Huge improvement at minimum so very happy.
 
For anyones info that may find thjs thread. Noise came back after about 50miles or so. Got the scrabble stopper ecu reprog by auto fault finder and noose gone again. Hopefully that is the end of it, service was great they had it back to my house within two days sorted. Happy man.
 
For anyones info that may find thjs thread. Noise came back after about 50miles or so. Got the scrabble stopper ecu reprog by auto fault finder and noose gone again. Hopefully that is the end of it, service was great they had it back to my house within two days sorted. Happy man.
HI M.
I'm sure Matt, also gave you some good advice, his service is very mine is still good, i also have a spare Haldex Gen 4 & diff for the future if i ever need it, thank you for reporting back on your findings.
 
Back
Top