FL2 Engine Stopped While Driving - Dropped Valve, Engine Swap

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I Finally have the engine out and it feels like it fought me every step of the way.

I have ordered a replacement engine and I think I'm going to get the TC rebuilt but Sussex Autos while I have the opportunity.

The problem I have now is that I need to roll the car out of the driveway to get the new engine up the driveway to where I'm going to need it. I couldn't shift the gear selector without the ignition (or release the steering lock) so I connected up the battery and it still wouldn't let me move it, presumably because it has a transmission error warning.

Is it possible to select neutral by disconnecting the linkage to the control box on the top of the gearbox and then rotating the control arm?

IMG_75.jpg
 
Well done.
I believe the gearbox park pawl is mechanical, disconnecting the cable and moving the lever by hand should allow you to disengage park individually of the gear lever solenoid.
 
Nodge68 said:
Well done.
I believe the gearbox park pawl is mechanical, disconnecting the cable and moving the lever by hand should allow you to disengage park individually of the gear lever solenoid.
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👍 That did it, thank you. I just need some willing volunteers now to help me roll it.

I'm treating my self to large whiskey tonight, it's a great relief to have the engine out.
 
I don't know about you, but in Ukraine, in such cases, the damaged cylinder is bored out and a new "dry" sleeve is pressed. This kind of work costs +/- £30
 
Nodge68 said:
As are us in the UK. However just because is can be done, doesn't mean it's cost effective to have the work done.
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I didn't allude to any of that in my comment so not sure why you're coming at me like that. Merely pointed out I've heard anecdotally that Ukrainians in general are good at fixing and inventing stuff
 
1988smithy said:
I didn't allude to any of that in my comment so not sure why you're coming at me like that. Merely pointed out I've heard anecdotally that Ukrainians in general are good at fixing and inventing stuff
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I wasn't coming at you at all, at least not intentionally, apologies if it came across like that.

Necessity is the mother of all invention, so yes in other parts of world where complete replacements aren't available easily or cheaply (comparatively), then other means of repair are needed.
Unfortunately here in the UK and other countries like the USA, labour charges are high for skilled engineers and machinists, so work repairing a damaged block would exceed the cost of a second hand replacement.
But I do agree with your initial statement. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
I wasn't coming at you at all, at least not intentionally, apologies if it came across like that.

Necessity is the mother of all invention, so yes in other parts of world where complete replacements aren't available easily or cheaply (comparatively), then other means of repair are needed.
Unfortunately here in the UK and other countries like the USA, labour charges are high for skilled engineers and machinists, so work repairing a damaged block would exceed the cost of a second hand replacement.
But I do agree with your initial statement. ;)
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Text ambiguity strikes again, no worries 👍🏻
 
Nodge68 said:
You'll need the bolts for the flex plate to crank, as they are throw away items. You might as well replace the crank seals (front and back) while the engine is out, as they are known to fail.
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You don’t happen to have a part number for the flex plate bolts do you? I’m really struggling to find them listed anywhere.

I have the car in neutral by disconnecting the control cable but it’s still very reluctant to move. I haven’t looked into the parking brake/lock that engages when the car is in “P” but is it likely that that is still engaged?

Lastly, with the power steering pump removed and the system partially drained down will I have any steering at all when I try and move the car?
 
CaptainB said:
You don’t happen to have a part number for the flex plate bolts do you? I’m really struggling to find them listed anywhere.

I have the car in neutral by disconnecting the control cable but it’s still very reluctant to move. I haven’t looked into the parking brake/lock that engages when the car is in “P” but is it likely that that is still engaged?

Lastly, with the power steering pump removed and the system partially drained down will I have any steering at all when I try and move the car?
Click to expand...

Bolt PN is LR019015 according to Advanced Factors.
Rammers have them.

Genuine Land Rover Bolt - Hex Head - M9 x 22 - LR019015 | Rimmer Bros

Order your Bolt - Hex Head - M9 x 22 - LR019015 - Genuine ⛽ Low prices and fast, worldwide delivery ✈ British car experts ♚ Call ☎ 01522 568000 or ☎ 1-855-746-2767
rimmerbros.com rimmerbros.com

The steering will work, but the power assistance won't, so it'll be very heavy.
 
Nodge68 said:
Bolt PN is LR019015 according to Advanced Factors.
Rammers have them.

Genuine Land Rover Bolt - Hex Head - M9 x 22 - LR019015 | Rimmer Bros

Order your Bolt - Hex Head - M9 x 22 - LR019015 - Genuine ⛽ Low prices and fast, worldwide delivery ✈ British car experts ♚ Call ☎ 01522 568000 or ☎ 1-855-746-2767
rimmerbros.com rimmerbros.com

The steering will work, but the power assistance won't, so it'll be very heavy.
Click to expand...
👍 Thanks @Nodge68 , much appreciated.



My re-assembly shopping list currently comprises the following:

Timing Belt Kit
Service Kit - Oil, Air, Fuel, Cabin Filters + Sump Washer
LR000645 - Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
LR000673 and LR052515 - Crankshaft Seals
LR 019015 - Flexplate Bolts
Coolant
P/S Fluid
Engine Oil

and because I'm also doing the torque convertor:

A/T Fluid
LR000876 - A/T Fill Plug - Mine's stripped and will need replacing
LR002908 - A/T Drain Plug - Partial to being stripped as above
A/T Drain Plug O-Ring

Is there anything I've missed or anything else I should consider replacing while I have the replacement engine out of the car?
 
Well rain has definitely stopped play today so I've been shopping for all the bits and pieces that I'm going to need when the replacement engine arrives. It was supposed to arrive yesterday but the driver of the 18t lorry decided that he couldn't navigate our narrow country lane and took it back to the depot. Having run into this problem before I specifically stated that they should deliver it on a small vehicle when I placed the order, seemingly the courier took no notice of that (big surprise there!) and then rang to say that they were charging me a re-delivery fee. I politely advised them to foxtrot oscar!

Looks like it's back to reading the LR manual and Haynes this afternoon...
 
Wow this is a fantastic thread and a great learning thread for us all i would say, photos are excellent too, you are doing some very good work here, that will help others in the future my hat is off to you, also Nodge is on board so you cannot find any better advice, i have just bought a timing belts kit my self from Autodoc.
 
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