FL2 auto mpg

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Well, something strange happened today.
Yesterday I put a can of wynnes inlet cleaner through the car out of desperation. I went to the garage this morning to fill up and take it for a run. As I pulled away I noticed the computer was climbing!! Anyway, I did the drive ( approx 28 miles ) and by the time I got home it had climbed to 36 mpg ???
Very strange but I'm pleased. Let's hope it lasts :):):)
I assume yer reset it before driving away from the garage?
 
Not sure about earlier FL2's but the later ones are quite clever in knowing the average fool consumption. Fill to fill being 0.1 out int comparison to yer own calculation. Not sure how they measure it or if it's a trick of counting how the engine is running.
 
Fill it full until the pump cuts out. Reset the miles trip distance to zero. Drive it as normal until yer used arf a tank. Then go back to the same pump and fill up full untill the pump cuts out. Look at the miles trip distance.

Devide the miles travelled by the number of litres of fool put in. Then multiply this value by 4.54. This will give yer true miles per gallon.
 
Fill it full until the pump cuts out. Reset the miles trip distance to zero. Drive it as normal until yer used arf a tank. Then go back to the same pump and fill up full untill the pump cuts out. Look at the miles trip distance.

Devide the miles travelled by the number of litres of fool put in. Then multiply this value by 4.54. This will give yer true miles per gallon.

Completely agree. Only way to even get close to an accurate mpg. Trips always seem to over read many many mpg on cars especially autos now days.
 
Completely agree. Only way to even get close to an accurate mpg. Trips always seem to over read many many mpg on cars especially autos now days.
It's a strange one this. Years ago they were all over the place. You tended to ignore it but it was there to annoy you.

I hire all sorts of different vehicles for work. Most modern designed cars do provide an mpg which is within 1mpg. Not all but most do. If you fill up and start driving continuously the value will read much higher than normal. Once you stop at traffic lights it will start to come down. As you continue with this cycle of events the average gets betterer and tends to the normal average yer get fer the type of driving yer do. Refill to full and the mpg is not far out when comparing receipt detail to car if it was correctly filled to cut oft before.

Years ago it was mileage driven against fool used as the calculation. Fool used was via average float movement int tank. Theres also the option to count injection cycles which is more precise. I don't know how they do it on newer cars as I haven't looked it up. Years ago the abnormal shape of fool takes would cause kayos with the result being offset because of this.

Somehow newer designed cars get round this. Even driving in hilly areas where you loose distance when going uphill but gain down hill. Most the cars I get go over 500 miles with several fills in case we're stuck for places to fill or the car becomes our emergency hotel. I've seen a late model FL2 SD4 continuously get the mpg to .1 or .2, even with just 1 gallon used.

Colleague at work never gets his mpg right and we thought his was killing it due to his driving being erratic. Turns out he was using USA gallons and not 4.54L per gallon.
 
It's a strange one this. Years ago they were all over the place. You tended to ignore it but it was there to annoy you.

I hire all sorts of different vehicles for work. Most modern designed cars do provide an mpg which is within 1mpg. Not all but most do. If you fill up and start driving continuously the value will read much higher than normal. Once you stop at traffic lights it will start to come down. As you continue with this cycle of events the average gets betterer and tends to the normal average yer get fer the type of driving yer do. Refill to full and the mpg is not far out when comparing receipt detail to car if it was correctly filled to cut oft before.

Years ago it was mileage driven against fool used as the calculation. Fool used was via average float movement int tank. Theres also the option to count injection cycles which is more precise. I don't know how they do it on newer cars as I haven't looked it up. Years ago the abnormal shape of fool takes would cause kayos with the result being offset because of this.

Somehow newer designed cars get round this. Even driving in hilly areas where you loose distance when going uphill but gain down hill. Most the cars I get go over 500 miles with several fills in case we're stuck for places to fill or the car becomes our emergency hotel. I've seen a late model FL2 SD4 continuously get the mpg to .1 or .2, even with just 1 gallon used.

Colleague at work never gets his mpg right and we thought his was killing it due to his driving being erratic. Turns out he was using USA gallons and not 4.54L per gallon.
I would have thought the ECU knows how much fuel its injecting and how many turns the wheels have made to calculate distance - so can calculate MPG.
 
I would have thought the ECU knows how much fuel its injecting and how many turns the wheels have made to calculate distance - so can calculate MPG

The ECU knows exactly how much fuel is going in to the engine, right down to the milligram. However the Ipack can only calculate actual fuel consumption based on fuel/ distance calculations. This is going to be much more accurate once some distance has actually been travelled. Especially in an automatic where there is always a degree of lost motion at the torque converter.

There are other factors in the mix too, like added load on the engine from things like AC compressor and alternator. Driving on a cold misty night with the heater, AC, lights and wipers on will make the MPG considerably worse, than the same journey in daylight on a warm dry spring day.

I always consider the in car MPG display as a guide only as it definitely can't be a reliable display as the variables are too great.

I use an APP for my FL1, which is the only sure way to pretty accurate fuel usage.
There's mine for my FL1, TD4 auto.
20190112_115130.jpg
 
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The ECU knows exactly how much fuel is going in to the engine, right down to the milligram. However the Ipack can only calculate actual fuel consumption based on fuel/ distance calculations.
But these days with engine ECUs talking to ABS ECUs talking to Dash ECUs - and using, for example, the F2's 7 networks - surely all the ECUs know all the information from each other ECUs so can calculate the 'current' MPG based on whats being injected.

I bet though they use the same distance calculation as speed - so ~10% over, so ~10% better MPG than actual :)
 
Like most cars the FL2 has current mpg which is based ont what it's doing at the time only. Drops low when eggscellerating and intcreases when yer take yer foot oft.

It also has average use mpg which includes the distance and tick over time from the last trip reset by pressing the stalk button. That's the one thats near spot on from what I've seen. Same as other pugs, ford and Audi... When using brim to brim measuring.
 
As someone mentioned earlier temperature appears to affect mine. last summer driving across Spain in mid 30's deg at motorway speeds was getting 39 mpg but lots of short runs in UK winter more like 23 mpg.
I did read somewhere in cold conditions the FL2 injects fuel on the exhaust cycle to stop the diesel particulate filter from blocking (to keep the exhaust warm) maybe someone out there knows more about it.
But then I didn't buy it as an economy car so not too surprised.
 
Well my optimism was short lived, mpg has dropped to 27 mpg after a week of commuting.
There must be a problem. :(

Are there many road junctions and traffic lights on your commute? Stop / start driving is hell on economy.

Or perhaps your previous previous car was a BMW or Audi? Other than low mpg there doesn't seem to be anything else bugging you about your F2. An, ahem, 'aggressive' driving style would certainly return the figures you are quoting.
 
Driving it like a granny. It's now down to 25 mpg. Need to sort this or I may have to sell.:( other than that I love the car.
 
I did read somewhere in cold conditions the FL2 injects fuel on the exhaust cycle to stop the diesel particulate filter from blocking (to keep the exhaust warm) maybe someone out there knows more about it.

That's how the DPF is regenerated. It won't throw unburned fuel down the exhaust at any other time.
Fuel consumption morally increases in winter, because oils are thicker and cause more drag on the mechanical components.
 
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from a previous post on another fred Hippo wrote:

On a Freelander 2 the 8th character of the vin will tell you if it had a dpf fitted when first built in the factory. If the 8th character is C or E then it has a dpf. The Freelander 2 was always available with a dpf from the beginning in the UK, but it was optional in early years (at extra cost). Most FL2 diesel markets operated on similar rules but not all. On the MY10 (model year 2010) onwards they fitted them as standard in the UK because they were forced to because of emission rules. Surprisingly the UK was late to enforce dpf's being fitted as standard. Some countries demanded they were fitted as standard sooner while others didn't bother. Yer would think the UK would have been one of the first to demand it as standard with the constant talk of air pollution.
 
What sort of driving are you doing? Residential streets half a mile long stopping at each junctions. A roads at constant 40 or 50 or are you queueing int traffic 20 minutes a day?
 
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