FL1 TD4 Facelift Gearbox Covered In Soot!?

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Hippolady26 said:
I replaced the failed one with a Pierburg but still noisy
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It's like got an air leak on the intake side of the pump. I expect one of the O rings in the quick connectors isn't sealing correctly, allowing air to enter the pump, which causes cavitation and noise.
 
Hippolady26 said:
No full prop is removed as the vcu was starting to seize, I’m sending that off to Bell when I get chance
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That's fair enough. The rubber gaiter therefore would be on the prop that has been removed. Unless you mean its not on there.
Hippolady26 said:
but have been fixing many other faults in the meantime :confused: so far I’ve replaced lower suspension arms, track rod ends, front drive shafts, hp pump regulator, low pressure pump and filter, full service, brakes all round and 4 new tyres. The LP pump does make quite an annoying high pitched noise though, I replaced the failed one with a Pierburg but still noisy :mad: also had a new heated windscreen, window regs, crankcase upgrade and new hoses…. I love this car but she’s wearing me out!
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You're doing all the things that should give you a good decent reliable motor :)
 
Ah thank you! I’ll have to take a look at that cause the noise is driving me mad, 3rd lp fuel pump in 8 months and an oem one was starting to think it was supposed to sound like that :oops:
 
Yeah the gaiter was on the prop but it was looking a bit perished so will replace when it goes back on, hopefully yeah I’ll end up with a decent car, since replacing the rubber fuel lines mpg has increased slightly, also soldered the wires on the IAT sensor so more responsive now…. However…. I made the mistake of washing her and now the drive belts next to the drivers front wheel are making a horrendous squealing type noise :( sprayed some wd40 on and it quietened down but returns again after a little while… is this a replacement belt? Or do I just need a better lubricant?
 
Pretty sure WD40 is not a lubricant - think it will remove oil and grease. Think it loosens stuff up, but it should then be cleaned and oiled/greased - if necessary of course!

My L Series diesel engine has a 'trait' of the belt tensioner failing, so I'm quite happy that I have a lot of oil covering the engine around that area :D
 
Argh! I think I have some copper grease spray I’ll pop that on and see if I can get something better, mpg has improved since changing the fuel hoses, now just to figure out why it’s pulling back slightly when accelerating… seriously, does it ever end!?
 
Hippolady26 said:
I made the mistake of washing her and now the drive belts next to the drivers front wheel are making a horrendous squealing type noise :( sprayed some wd40 on and it quietened down but returns again after a little while… is this a replacement belt? Or do I just need a better lubricant?
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You don't want any lubricant on the drive belt. It makes them slip more, which simply wears it out faster.
If it's a flat belt, and it's making a squealing noise, it needs replacing, as it's at the end of it's life.
 
Thanks @Nodge68 I’ve replaced the belts, as I have no idea if or when they were last done so it’s one less thing to worry about :D gonna take a look at the fuel connectors on the lp pump as if there’s air getting in that might explain the noise and the flat spots when it’s low on fuel, mpg has improved from 18mpg to 30mpg but I think it can do better! I’ve looked at the live data but not sure about “normal” values :confused: also shows on the emissions test as fuel failed although the app says it will say failed if the test wasn’t run so bit misleading….
 


So… have put in an old cheap fuel pump, still doesn’t prime in the usual 45 second time just goes on until it times out. Although it doesn’t seem as bad a noise as the Pierburg but something isn’t quite right, I was under the impression that it’s self priming so shouldn’t need air bleeding out, but if I need to how would I go about it? Or should I be looking elsewhere for the issue?
 
Hippolady26 said:


So… have put in an old cheap fuel pump, still doesn’t prime in the usual 45 second time just goes on until it times out. Although it doesn’t seem as bad a noise as the Pierburg but something isn’t quite right, I was under the impression that it’s self priming so shouldn’t need air bleeding out, but if I need to how would I go about it? Or should I be looking elsewhere for the issue?
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The LP fuel system is circular, so is self priming.
 
This is driving me insane! I need another Freelander to test pumps on as it seems odd that 3 different pumps all don’t prime correctly :mad: diagnostics I’ve done haven’t brought up a fault, no eml either and a local garage couldn’t figure it out
 
I had considered that, I used the pic below as my ref, on my filter it has in and out written on each end which I’ve put on the pic to show which way I have it. The connections are all nice and tight and I’ve wiggled hoses when it’s been on to see if there’s a change in sound but there wasn’t. There’s vibration on the hose that goes from the sediment trap to the pump and the hose from the pump to the filter. The next place I was going to look was the hoses from the sender unit to see if they needed changing
 

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So have accessed the fuel sender, can’t see any obvious issues but I suppose it won’t take much for air to get in? Should there be a clip on the feed hose?
 

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