FL1 - Engine mounting, lower tie-rod. Fixed. Cheap too.

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PopRivet

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Hi everyone, especially Freelander 1 owners. I’ve just carried out an exercise that could be said to be ‘questionable’. Please allow me to explain.

When I parked my FL1 on a slope, the engine seemed to shut down with a vibration, causing the exhaust to knock and the bodywork to shake.

I suspected the engine-mounts were to blame, so went through a process of discovery and illimination.

All the mounts seemed to be 100%, - including the lower mount. However, when I drove that car after my efforts to discover what and if any mounts might be suspect, the car drove differently. It was a different beast. It was quieter, smoother and very comfortable. Until I switched off the ignition! The engine did its usual vibratory dance as it shut-down. Hmmm, I thought.

After thinking about this problem, overnight ( you wouldn't believe what I dream about - lol ), I decided to carry out a makeshift repair, using information gleaned from ‘YouTube’. A great source of valuable information.

I’m writing now - as having removed the lower mounting – again, to clean the rubber with a course file to make it rough. This would help to make it more acceptable to sticking to a substance that would help to make this unit better at absorbing vibration and my car better. I hoped.

See the pictures.
DSCF0639.JPG DSCF0635.JPG DSCF0636.JPG DSCF0637.JPG

I used polyurethane from a tube to strengthen the shock-absorbing rubber of the original unit, and it was as sticky as anything could possibly be. I squeezed a level of the liquid into the cavity around the rubber-bush, both sides. Ensuring it was completely surrounded and engulfed. Allowing it to set, which took a couple of hours; I refitted the unit to the car and left it for the rest of the day & night.

Then I tested it. BRILLIANT!!!!!! My car was okay to begin with, except for a vibration when starting and shutting-down. Now it’s smooth in every direction. The drive is like that of a new car.

So, save yourself a few quid by using liquid polyurethane filler. It’s cheap and does miracles, in my opinion. Check it out on YouTube. I did. And... it works!
 
I'd just spend a few quid on a new replacement bush. I've found these adhesive polyurethane materials have quite a short life when surrounded by the harsh environment of a vehicle. Never mind the fact that the tie bar bush takes huge amounts of torque, pretty much equal to the torque at the wheels.
 
Good idea,But if I was going through the hassle to take it off I would just replace.If you could get in at the part while it was on the car,if that would work? Never used it before,to get you by till you have time/part to do it
 
Hope it works for you as a long-term fix. @PopRivet
Mark the day in your calendar and you can report on elapsed-days before significant change occurred if it resumes its earthquake dancing on shut-down.
 
Has anyone got a link/number for one of these bushes ? I have a feeling mine is in need of replacement
 
Interesting fix. May be masking another issue though that will get worse.
I took the car out again today and all seems well. However, as you say Grumpy, there may be something else that could be masked. I will monitor everything very closely.
 
Has anyone got a link/number for one of these bushes ? I have a feeling mine is in need of replacement

The bush isn't actually available separately. Only the complete "dog bone" tie bar is available, unless you fit a polyurethane upgrade. However I'd be very cautious of the poly bush on a TD4, as it's not great at absorbing engine vibrations.
There are a few rubber bushes available separately outside the UK, but as to the quality, is anyone's guess.

I've yet to find a better replacement, than the original LR item for a 4 cylinder FL1.
 
I'd just spend a few quid on a new replacement bush. I've found these adhesive polyurethane materials have quite a short life when surrounded by the harsh environment of a vehicle. Never mind the fact that the tie bar bush takes huge amounts of torque, pretty much equal to the torque at the wheels.
I will probably buy a proper bush, eventually. But living in Spain the temperatures are extremely high and rubber goes very soft.
I'll keep everyone informed how this quick-fix repair progresses.
 

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The bush isn't actually available separately. Only the complete "dog bone" tie bar is available, unless you fit a polyurethane upgrade. However I'd be very cautious of the poly bush on a TD4, as it's not great at absorbing engine vibrations.
There are a few rubber bushes available separately outside the UK, but as to the quality, is anyone's guess.

I've yet to find a better replacement, than the original LR item for a 4 cylinder FL1.
There was a bit of chat about these bushes here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/back-again-with-a-new-issue.324411/page-2

The bush is the same one used in the upper tie bar to the engine mount and on Rovers. I was sure someone was going to try one of these and report back...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Left-Rea...180674?hash=item43e59e8782:g:xeEAAOSwI-BWM9rb
 
The bush is the same one used in the upper tie bar to the engine mount and on Rovers. I was sure someone was going to try one of these and report back..

The large bushes from the top and bottom tie bars are interchangeable, in as much as they fit in both locations.
There are a couple of different types of bush designs though. Both designs use a spherical bush, with flaps on the sides, presumably to help keep the bar from touching metal at the sides. It's these side flaps where the bushes appear different. Some bushes have circular side flaps, while others have hexagonal side flaps. I suspect this is done to identify different hardnesses of bush. I've never had the equipment to measure the hardness of the different types of bush, to identify the actual difference between them.
 
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Actually, thinking about it. If the polyurethane bush was spherical, like the original LR item, then it would provide decent location without the vibration associated with the drum shaped polyurethane bush.
 
Hi - again. My last update on the bushes.
My wife & I just did a two hundred + Km's round trip yesterday, shopping for furniture, of all things.
Anyway, the front suspension has been run and tested, with only positive results. Jeez, even the engine stops quicker - and smoother.
It was the fact that then engine always seemed to like doing a Higland Fling while shutting down, which allowed the silencer at the back-end to knock on something.
But, as I say, No-more.
I recently replaced the rear-diff's front suspension unit with a rubber unit - but once again, it's soft. I brought back a full compliment of poly bushes, which I aim to fit ASAP.
I'll keep you posted on that too.
Have a nice weekend guys. Erm, gals too. I don't want to be accused of whatever I might be by ignoring the opposite gender. :)
 
Not sure how firming up the tie bar bush can turn the engine off quicker, but maybe it doesn't shake for so long after turning it off. Bit like having working shock absorbers stopping body movement..
 
Not sure how firming up the tie bar bush can turn the engine off quicker, but maybe it doesn't shake for so long after turning it off. Bit like having working shock absorbers stopping body movement..
And that is what seems to be happening. The original rubber mounting is so soft the engine rocks as it shuts down. By siffening the mount the rocking motion is reduced and all seems better.
I am now preparing to do something similar, or to replace the units with Poly bushes. Rubber is subject to temperature, as i have seen and felt. The poly bushes may be more rersistant.
The rear diff bushes are about to be replaced too, and with the same kind of preformed Poly-bushes. I already have 'em so will be done asap.
Rubber may be okay for the UK, but not, in my opinion, good for high temp countries.
I'll keep y'all posted.s-l500.jpg
 
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